'46 Chevy Shorty

[ol trunt]

Nice. How will you plumb your creation? Will you have to come up with a proportioning valve to balance front to rear braking or will the boost unit take care of that?
Jack

[FlyboyHPD]

I just wish I had half your brains Tango .

[1olfart]

AND his hair!
Not to mention his creativity?

[cadillackid]

This is cool stuff, soxthe clutch master actuates remotely the hydroboost so you can relocate it?,since there are 2 separate art systems what do you do for redundancy ? I remember Ford clutch masters going bad without warning in ranger trucks .. scary if you lost brake actuation
Christopher

[Tootalltechie]

Would the electric backup on a Hydro-boost system be the answer?

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[Tootalltechie]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Why would you want to do that?

It won't be cheap and I doubt you will gain very much in braking ability. The booster is still working on the brakes you already have.

Your '74 engine should have plenty of vacuum to boost your brakes. The vacuum tank should be good for at least a couple or three brake applications before you are out of vacuum.

Since you already have power steering I can't see why you would bother making the change.

Switch to hydro-boost because it can supply more brake pressure and you can have a electric backup system when the engine is not running. Hydro-boost operates off the power steering pump not off engine vacuum. When using a big block gas engine vacuum is an issue that is why there are vacuum storage tanks in the system.

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[Tango]

Still looking into exactly how this set up is plumbed but according to the builder, the system will provide "some hard braking" even if the master goes south. He said less pedal pressure than with a Vac system. Not sure how that can work if the main actuator (clutch master) were to go away though. And not sure yet if it uses an electric back up or a gas charge (I definitely prefer electric). Still sorting this all out. Don't really want to rely on the driveline brake in an emergency.

As for "Brains"...I wish I still had half of mine too.

[plfking]

Originally Posted by Tango

As for "Brains"...I wish I still had half of mine too.

[cadillackid]

wierd how can it have a physical link to the brake system if its simply hydraulic? I could see there being 2 hydraulic systems so its redundant.. the whole concept is the fact you use fluid in places where physical linkage is impossible ot tough to route..

of course in standard hydroboost you would have to stand on it like a mother but you have physical linkage to the brake hydraulics.. and there is 2 separate (or should be) hydraulic systems for redundancy.. front / rear...

the electric motor on a hydroboost system is simply to provide hydraulic pressure iun the event yopur engine stalls as you dont have a reserve reservoire like you do with vacuum or Air-Over-Hydraulic.

-Christopher

[Tootalltechie]

I've been doing some research on on electric over hydroboost systems. Turns out GM had it on high end cars of the early 70' made by bendix. There was a problem with the electric pump failure. In the mid to late 80's International truck had system they put on their trucks. Ford put a electric over hydroboost system on their medium duty trucks f700, f800 in the early 80's. Currently some ABS systems use a electric high pressure pump.

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[Tango]

Howdy Folks --- After spending far too much time and money on ideas that didn't work, I finally managed to pull some wiring. Tried a couple different things for a chase including plumbing fixtures but wound up using some garden hose and non-metallic conduit elbows.


With an elbow going through the floor on each side of the bus, I connected some 3/4" garden hose to each for the wiring to go through. It took a couple of trys to find a "fishing tape" that could make the bends and even then had to modify the ends. Ran some 14/3 that should handle a couple of 12v LED's and one charger outlet.


Comes up through the floor then will go into a cabinet. Will start on the 110 and 12v that goes down the other side shortly. Absolutely no idea what I am doing here. Just hope it all works.

And...for anyone trying to glue PVC to anything...


Just came across the product above from GE that claims to adhere PVC to most anything which has always been a problem. I am using some 5/8" PVC quarter round to finish off the edges of my flooring in a few places because did not want wood that would rot.

ONWARD!

[ol trunt]

Love the garden hose idea. Real old school and it'll last forever! Though I'm ashamed to say that it doesn't look as neat as your job, I did manage a 110 volt leg from one side to the other using similar plastic angles through the floor but with plastic wire loom which isn't water proof like your hose idea. I installed the plastic on the wire before I laced across the floor as I could see no way to pull the wire like you did. Jack

[Tango]

Howdy Jack --- Ya...pulling the wire was a monster. Tried one quarter inch metal fish tape and it wouldn't even begin to go into the elbows. Found another that was barely over 1/8th inch wide and still had to re-shape the end to get it to work. Still was a struggle getting it all the way through.

NOTE TO OTHER WOULD BE WIRE PULLERS:
After all that, a buddy/electrician said he uses a small sewer snake that he modified the end on. Said it will conform to tight angles much easier and pulls wire just great.

Sure...NOW you tell me!

[Stewzer55]

At first I was thinking you were going to go with a brake master under the floor with a through floor pedal rather than a hanging pedal, the hydroboost should be able to work in that position since it takes up much less space than a vacuum booster. A hydroboost is more natural in something with a diesel engine in my opinion anyway. Some say hydroboost is touchier than air brakes, they feel on or off depending on the system. Nice work on the wiring, I swear I learn something new every time you post in here Tango.

[cadillackid]

I take all or part of a plastic grocery bag connected to some nylon pull string and suck it through the pipe with a shop VAC, then use the pull string to pull wires back and forth.. leaving enough pull string so if I wanted to add wires later I can,

-Christopher

[family wagon]

Sorry you had such a struggle with the fishing! Next time, try a vacuum (wet-dry vac or whatever) and string. Add enough bulk on the end of the string so that there's enough air drag to pull it through, but not too much friction on the pipe walls. Sewing thread tied to a paperclip or safety pin can work when it's a real pickle, but mason's line tied to a plastic sack works great when there's more room in the pipe.

[Tango]

Great ideas with the string and vac. Next quirky project I will have to remember to ask you guys for input instead of muddling through on my own...like I usually do.

[Robin97396]

Yeah, that'll fix you up.

[Tango]

NAPA to the rescue...Again! --- After spending a week searching heavy duty truck shops, Ebay, Amazon and everyone else online who sells anything like the tail lights I wanted...I found'em at good ol' NAPA. None of the truck shops here had'em. The Ebay morons wanted right at $50 bucks for shipping a pound and a half and that Amazon source had a tiny little note down in the corner of the ad that read..."Usually ships in one to three months". WHAT?

They are nothing fancy. In fact they were standard issue TruckLite LED replacements for lots of Freightliners and Peterbuilts from the late '80's thru the '90's. So what's the deal? Next time...I'll START at NAPA.


Look so simple...so hard to track down.


3D Compound curves can be a #@%&# to work with. Here I am trying to figure out measurements and angles for a bracket to mount the lights on. I am hoping to do something Art Deco-Ish out of stainless but need to find someone to do some (cheap) plasma or water jet cutting to get the shapes I want. Ya...Wish me luck on that.


ONWARD!

[Robin97396]

Looks cool, as usual. I can't picture how your art deco fits in there, but it'll be a a nice surprise as usual.

I think those FL guys went to be already.