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Old 10-15-2017, 02:58 PM   #2681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
when I was doing gasser stuff I always kept the ignition unolugged and cranked for a bit to see oil pressure before I let it start..

the ONE diesel I rebuilt had a uel solenoid so I left it unplugged and cranked.. then plugged it in, fired it up, turned on the A/C (cause it was a 90 degree july night in a barn.. ).. then drove it like I stole it..
-Christopher
Anybody remember the drill in the distributor hole to prime the oil pump??? Cut-off distributor drive shaft chucked in 1/2" drill worked great.

With diesels, it's a scrap of plywood at the ready to cover inlet and starve air to kill runnaways. Don't use a shop rag and destroy the turbo.

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Old 10-15-2017, 05:34 PM   #2682
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indeed I still have my sawed off distributor in my tool box!. id run that and would still crank before I tried to fire it.

never though about a runaway.. if I ever rebuild one of my diesels ill keep a capper handy to kill it..

I was told if I incurred a runaway in my own engine for real that I could stop the engine by spraying the fire extuingisher into the intake.. not sure how true that is.. hopefully i never have a runaway..
-Christopher
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:14 PM   #2683
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Guys like Smokey Yunick don't come around every day.
GW
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:45 PM   #2684
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Yeah...a runaway diesel is a scary thing (plenty of YouTube videos on the subject) --- And Roger not using a rag. I have heard horror stories of hands hands & fingers coming out the exhaust. Kinda' like being sucked into a jet intake (Had a Navy buddy who actually survived that experience on an F8 Crusader, but he was on in 10,000). Most don't.

And I have been told the same about using a CO2 extinguisher as it displaces the oxygen needed for detonation in the cylinders. Might be worth a try. Certainly safer than a rag and a hand. I have thought about building an air shutoff using an RV black tank valve in the intake. Might just work...we'll see. They make fancy cutoffs but they are crazy expensive and look just like the tank valve. A diesel only needs fuel & air. Cut off either and they will not continue to run. Let's just hope none of us ever needs to resort to such a trial.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:23 PM   #2685
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I have thought about building an air shutoff using an RV black tank valve in the intake. Might just work...we'll see. They make fancy cutoffs but they are crazy expensive and look just like the tank valve. A diesel only needs fuel & air. Cut off either and they will not continue to run. Let's just hope none of us ever needs to resort to such a trial.
You gave me good idea - Blast gate from dust collector is cheap-



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Old 10-15-2017, 09:36 PM   #2686
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Dang...that looks right to me. And metal instead of plastic. Tell us more!?
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:29 PM   #2687
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Dang...that looks right to me. And metal instead of plastic. Tell us more!?
Not much to say- opens and closes quick. Link

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Old 10-16-2017, 06:05 AM   #2688
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what os the most typical cause of a runaway? major engine internal issues allowing oil into the cylinders or a busted turbo?

whats the realisic chances of saving an engine that runs away? im assuming you are just driving down the road.. see clouds of smoke, cant slow it down , so you stop.. open the hood, apply whatever stop procedure you opt for.. have you by that time revved it so high you wasted all the valves? or are most diesels non interference and will just RPM up to the point of valve float where the compression goes away and becomes its own "rev limiter"? till you can get the air cut..
-Christopher
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:50 AM   #2689
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All stationary oilfield diesel engines are required to have an emergency shutdown system. And since diesels can (and do) run wild on their own oil supply, they rely on shutting off the air supply using a device in the intake that looks just like what Rusty posted. They will typically be installed with a remote cable to actuate the gate and/or an automatic system to shut it.

A diesel is happy with almost any fuel supply including it's own oil but can also feed on anything in the atmosphere. In the case of oilfield equipment, natural gas and methane are common so they have these devices to close off the intake and shut them down. An 1100ci 16 cylinder Detroit can do a lot of damage if it speeds up and goes boom.

An over-the-road engine can do the same so an emergency shut down device is an excellent piece of insurance. A simple cable mechanism in the cockpit can be arranged to close such a device.
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:45 AM   #2690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
All stationary oilfield diesel engines are required to have an emergency shutdown system. And since diesels can (and do) run wild on their own oil supply, they rely on shutting off the air supply using a device in the intake that looks just like what Rusty posted. They will typically be installed with a remote cable to actuate the gate and/or an automatic system to shut it.

A diesel is happy with almost any fuel supply including it's own oil but can also feed on anything in the atmosphere. In the case of oilfield equipment, natural gas and methane are common so they have these devices to close off the intake and shut them down. An 1100ci 16 cylinder Detroit can do a lot of damage if it speeds up and goes boom.

An over-the-road engine can do the same so an emergency shut down device is an excellent piece of insurance. A simple cable mechanism in the cockpit can be arranged to close such a device.
sure does seem like a good device to have.. esp on us that have older engines and turbos.. seems like if a turbo bearing lets go it dumps a lot of oil somewhere and often the turbo itself doesnt fly apart so the engine isnt damage from the failure but would be from the oil burn..

-Christopher
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Old 10-16-2017, 02:11 PM   #2691
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You nailed it Christopher. Oil leaks in turbos are probably the numero uno cause of runaways. All you can do when it happens is shut off the air supply and a gate valve is the right way to do it.

The old DD 2-strokes with superchargers all had a shutdown plate that could be slammed closed doing the same thing. Only problem was that as often as not, the poorly designed plates would collapse, get sucked in, and wind up trashing the motor anyway.
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Old 10-16-2017, 02:15 PM   #2692
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Here's a pic of the aftermath of a diesel running away. Guy was delivering a tanker load of gas to our local gas station and somehow he started filling a tank that wasn't empty. Gas started spraying out of the vents at the top of the tank and his truck engine ran away on the gas fumes and grenaded itself which sparked an explosion and fire that ended up exploding 3 storage tanks before it was brought under control. I was on the local volunteer fire dept at the time, was an amazing sight to witness!! watching mushroom clouds of fire shoot hundreds of feet in the air and moments later having a 15 foot disk (tank top) come crashing down a hundred feet from its tank. miraculously no one was killed or injured that night.
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Old 10-16-2017, 02:36 PM   #2693
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was that a semi? I thoght the cab is steel and its not there but the aluminum wheels are...
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:31 PM   #2694
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Ouch! Now that was a really bad runaway out come! --- And I can only guess that because heat goes up...the rims survived...kinda'.

Started mounting my pilot seat today --- Quite a chore actually. Trying to locate bolts through the floor in a way that they don't hit anything unwanted. The seat base is from a boat and slides fore & aft...plus side to side and...it swivels. The lower part is steel and will bolt through the floor. The open area will house a small map drawer/gun drawer/whatever drawer.



Just gotta keep chippin' away.



ONWARD!
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:29 PM   #2695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post

Just gotta keep chippin' away.


ONWARD!
That is my motto, too !!!

- Every single day, I do something on the bus. Anything- even if it's just ordering a part.


My grandma had those same seat covers! Your legs would stick to the vinyl when wearing shorts. All the dressers had custom glass tops....

You are getting some serious momentum now.
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:09 AM   #2696
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hey wait a minute!! Tango - all this super awesome effort and work and class A workmanship and you installed a Regular seat and not an Air seat???

so the seat is in does that mean we are gonna see smoke soon? I suppose I oughta come down and we can get the transmission wired up!
-Christopher
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:52 AM   #2697
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Howdy Christopher --- Not sure how close I am to makin some smoke but yes...that Allison is definitely in need of some wrapping up. Still have to fab some shifter parts and come up with a driveline brake cable arrangement. But please...feel free to drop by anytime. There's a bunch of us down her who will be more than happy to share a little Texas hospitality along with some tasty adult beverages. And this is definitely a good time of year to visit Houston. No hurricanes, no flooding and gorgeous Fall weather in place.

Also...one other Allison question comes to mind. The dipstick tube for my trans is just a press fit into the tranny case. And not a tight one at all. It seems like there should be something holding that end snug in place but I have not been able to find a drawing or part. Is there anything on your new trans that keeps that end down tight?

Rusty --- Just a plain vanilla, all mecahnical Toyota seat. No air, no electric. Remember, I am going as lo-tech as possible on this rig. The nautical base was chosen in the hope of being able to rotate and convert the pilot seat into a LazyBoy when docked. Still hoping it will clear all the stuff that has yet to go around it.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:18 AM   #2698
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yeah the dipstick should have a bracket partway up.. the original design is that there is a little bracket tack-welded to it and it fits in one of the bell bolt holes.. and then at the trans end it foes through a rubber grommet-seal and the upper bracket holds it tight enough..

in my case the shape of the bus cowl was too tight so I had to fab up my own bracket and mounted it in one of the spare holes on the trans side high up. I put my diptube on the left side.. you should be able to pull the plug on the top of the pan and mount the stick on either side of your bus depending on where you have the most room. my exhaust went down the right side so I put the trans stick on the left.

of course its the one thing I didnt get pics of when I did the install.. by the time I thought about it I had already put my floor access plate back down with dynamat and weather trip so i didnt want to pull it back up.

I have the stick tight against the side of the trans.. and it doesnt seem to move.. at least I havent lost it yet. lol..

-Christopher
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:31 AM   #2699
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Great minds and all that. While my driver's seat doesn't slide sideways, it does swivel and tilt etc. The copilot seat, however, does all that and rides on a motorized track that carries it fore and aft at a 45 degree angle to get it out of the way of the doorway opening when docked. I rushed right out to see if I could put a drawer in the driver's seat pedestal like you proposed -- looks possible. I'll whip that up after I finish my present project of welding '57 T-Bird fins on my '04 Retro bird. Jack
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:08 AM   #2700
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Chris --- Mine is on the driver side. And while there's not a whole lot of wiggle, I am not at all happy with such a loose fit down that low. Seems to me that any water above that joint (and we get a lot of that here) would pour right into the trans. Not a good thing. Guess I'll just have to fab something to pull it down tighter...or cover it up with seam sealer...or both.

Jack --- I should have known you'd work in some kind of electro/hydropneumatic something or the other just to move a danged seat. Just make sure any drawer you install has remote controls for the nuclear powered device that opens and closes it and lights it up.
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