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Old 11-19-2017, 02:25 PM   #2801
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Along similar lines, I had wondered about using a layer of something like Reflectix covered (on the heat side) with some hi temp, aluminum faced fiber type barrier. You can get that stuff rated to over 1000 degrees.
I used Reflectix between the bottom of my motorcycle gas tank and the top of the engine. That's a tight space and a 145 hp engine.

Worked like a charm.
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:13 PM   #2802
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Most spray foam is very flammable when exposed to an open flame and I have seen some spray and hardboard foam start to deform/shrink/run away from the heat shield attempts for my torching work.
I would be Leary of it personally?
There are products like one from HILTI that has a fire rating but anything that has a fire rating is for construction that is rated to the structures rating.
For example cinder/masonry block buy itself in standard construction only has a 2-hour rating so anything passing through that structure has to be fire proofed to a 2-hour rating and even solid concrete construction is only rated for 4-hours which products are made to seal penetrations for that rating.
Hilti and 3M both have websites with all of there DATA to support there products and they are pricey because they are life safety products.
3M has a product(that I can't remember the name of ) used to fireproof larger openings that is a layer of sheetmetal,there intumescent(fireproofing material) with a layer of chicken wire imbedded in it that is about a 1/4" thick. that is rated at around 1100 degrees? Don't quote me on that? But is very workable with a jig saw.
Then they sell fire blanket pillows in various thickness' including 1" and dimensions that areused to close up cable tray opening and can be pulled out to allow more cable to be pulled through and put back.
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Old 11-19-2017, 04:33 PM   #2803
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Along similar lines, I had wondered about using a layer of something like Reflectix covered (on the heat side) with some hi temp, aluminum faced fiber type barrier. You can get that stuff rated to over 1000 degrees.
That's what I did, but I used Peel and Seal and the OEM heat shield over. Really helps.

Know nothing about this : http://www.engineheatprotection.com/index.html
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:01 PM   #2804
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Good to know. Thanks Guys!
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:20 AM   #2805
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Originally Posted by 2kool4skool View Post
That's what I did, but I used Peel and Seal and the OEM heat shield over. Really helps.

Know nothing about this : Engine Heat Protection, Specializing in Engine Insulation

I may have to try some of this!!!! hush-mat helped with the noise but didnt do a darn thing for the heat in my red bus.. im going to look at this and see.. I surely need it for my DEV bus too.. that doghouse does nothing but blast heat in summer and its air-sealed pretty good..

why couldnt diesel engine manufacturers put the Turbo's up front like the race car guys do..
-Christopher
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:21 AM   #2806
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The foil faced mat on that site is just what I have been looking at. Hey...if it protected Jay Leno's carbon fiber from the turbo, it should work on my tin can. Good info there...thanks to all.
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:17 PM   #2807
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If you ever decide to build your own doghouse on a vintage bus...DON"T!...GO BUY one instead! --- I can't even begin to tell you how great a PITA this has been to date. What with everything being wonky. Not square, not plumb...it has almost put me over the edge,. And I still have a long way to go.


Looks simple, right? Well, it should have been...but wasn't. This is just the base that will bolt down around the opening behind the engine. The actual "house" is yet to be dealt with. Oh...and the rusty metal is just there to try and keep it all from torquing out of shape while I continue welding.


The base is made up of some 1-1/2" angle...welded onto it is some 1" angles...then some 1" square tube that will form the sealing surface (that also still has to be fabbed). A 1/8" gap will be fitted with what I hope will seal this sucker and last a while. No rubber here, too hot. Instead I will be trying out some oven door seals. A pair of them that interlock.

Will it work? WHO KNOWS. I just want to be done with this part. After trying to get tight measures (not really possible) then making a cardboard template...then a wooden template (with adjustments)...I went to metal. Still off by 1/8th of an inch on one edge (short, naturally). Back for more steel. The last steel appears to be OK but I still have several more chances to screw it up.

Some days the elevator...some days the shaft.



ONWARD!
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:51 PM   #2808
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Hang in there Tango. Design & Engineering is always a PITA. Looks like your really making some ground !!!
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:58 PM   #2809
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Looking good Tango..wish I was able to help with that . I used to get paid well f...or work like that.
About the 1 1/2"....will it be welded to the floor?
My thoughts are that if it doesn't look good enough in metal, start some 1/4 or 3/8 bolts [for framing} up through the 1 1/2" so you could maybe finish it in wood or something. Would give more room for heat and noise abatement.
You can't screw up now, this part has to be shipshape. If things don't come just plumb enough, then all you can really do is make it look good to the eye, not the tape measure. You will find more people have eyes than carry tape measures.

What you just built there looks good. Don't be loosinn it..have another toddy and relax.

John
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Old 11-21-2017, 09:39 AM   #2810
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Sorry for the rant guys, I guess I just needed to vent a bit. Most of this work I really enjoy doing but occasionally it goes a route that is less than fun.

Yes...the lower flange of the big angle will bolt to the chassis and the 1" tube will form the bottom half of the sealing surface. I'm having some "C" channel made to fit snugly over the square tube which will be the upper half of the seal. The actual doghouse will weld to that. As noted earlier, there will be two overlapping continuous runs of oven door seal between the upper & lower metal that I am hoping will keep out the heat and diesel stink.

Oh well...back to work.
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:46 AM   #2811
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Wouldn't want to upset the apple cart or anything but will you be able to fit that giant box through the door once it is assembled? Jack

Just had a thought (rare for me). Could you make up your dog house as a pair of clam shells?
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:20 PM   #2812
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Quote:
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Wouldn't want to upset the apple cart or anything but will you be able to fit that giant box through the door once it is assembled? Jack

Just had a thought (rare for me). Could you make up your dog house as a pair of clam shells?
Tango,

If you make the dog house as a pair of clam shells, Is there a pearl to be found inside? Oh yeah, it's the engine and transmission..... Silly me.....

M
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:29 AM   #2813
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The doghouse is not really all that big. Just a pain to try and fit. Would be a lot easier if I had a real welding table that I could clamp things down on. The heat keeps distorting things out of whack no matter how much I move around and tack it. I need one of those new Cold Welding machines.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:46 AM   #2814
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Handed off a couple of drawings for the new brake system yesterday to my builder buddy. He managed to simplify some of the construction within 60 seconds of going over what I had. Still has three bellcranks with pushrods and such but will be much easier to fab.

Also got a look at a sweet little '57 Chevy he is putting together for a client. On the outside it is a real sleeper. Not a Bel Air but a plain vanilla 210 two-door with factory two-tone paint and interior.

But from below?....
A seventy-thousand dollar hand built frame. Fully independent suspension. Massive four wheel disks...all powered by a very tricked out LH7 they have another twenty grand in.

Nice.

I think you might like it Christopher.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:03 PM   #2815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Handed off a couple of drawings for the new brake system yesterday to my builder buddy. He managed to simplify some of the construction within 60 seconds of going over what I had. Still has three bellcranks with pushrods and such but will be much easier to fab.

I can see Tango's new dash......



I just couldn't resist....... All the custom fabrication is truly a marvel to witness!!!

M
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:22 PM   #2816
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Funny you should mention the dash M --- I just got another component that will let me move ahead on it. Took the stainless shop a couple of tries to get it right but I now have the base for my shifter which will be mounted in the middle of my maple dash. From here I can now make the necessary cutouts in the dash/firewall and start hanging the cable to the tranny. Will try and get some pix today.

It's all the "little stuff" that seems to eat your lunch and slow things down.
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Old 11-26-2017, 01:04 PM   #2817
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Tango,

IF it's anything like my cartoon, I'm gonna DIE laughing!!!!!!

M
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Old 11-26-2017, 02:34 PM   #2818
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It's all the "little stuff" that seems to eat your lunch and slow things down.
It's all the "little stuff" that is going to make your build truly unique when you get done. Very few people will be able to look at your finished product and appreciate all the artistry and detail that went into your rolling sculpture.

Don
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Old 11-26-2017, 08:43 PM   #2819
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Thanks Don...but I am ready for this work of art to hit the street. I enjoy working out details and such but I am totally ready to roll this sucker!
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:14 PM   #2820
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Small Stuff --- But important. Got the base to mount my Allison shifter fabricated. Now I can finally move ahead on putting the dash together.


Fortunately, there is a stainless sheet metal shop right across the street from my warehouse. Took them a couple of tries to get it right, but it is done. This will mount on my dash/firewall but still needs the cable made.

Meanwhile...


I am also working on another sculpted steel, concrete & cement bench for my neighborhood bar. This is just the armature (rebar frame). The round table is close to six feet in diameter and will seat 8-10 people. No back on this one so it should go a little easier. The last one took five months to complete. Hopefully, this one won't keep me away from my bus for quite as long.
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