'46 Chevy Shorty

[Robin97396]

It goes a lot faster if you just lower your standards a little bit.

Nice word as always.

[Robin97396]

Nice work, I mean.

[Tango]

Thanks Robin --- Rattle-canned a lot of paint on the steps today. Maybe 15 coats?. Horrible day to paint though. 60 degrees and the usual 140% Houston humidity. I'm using a slightly textured paint called Hammerite. Pretty tough stuff but the down side is that it does not "fully" cure for two weeks. Guess I'll be using the rear door for a while. Once cured it does have a hammered texture. Will be using the same thing on the metal parts of the dash. The "diamonds" on the steps will no doubt wear through pretty quickly but that's just the nature of the material.




Hope to get back on the brake lines come Monday.



ONWARD!

[Robin97396]

That Hammerite is pretty good stuff. I used it on the ceiling in my first bus nearly 30 years ago and it's still there. Wipes down easy.

Your diamond plate should look cool with the high parts rubbed off.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

E-mailed two pages to you earlier today under scouters 4 yahoo so don't trash it.

[Tango]

Hey Robin...I actually considered sanding the tops down but decided it will look that way soon enough.

JR...just downloaded the PDF...many thanks pardner! Will sit down and go through it in the morning.

[ol trunt]

Ah, great minds and all that. All of the painted surfaces in my bus are done in hammerite--including the diamond plate on the entry steps. Stuff takes forever to dry but once it does it is real tough. Being a picky old sob I keep a piece of that anti slip waffle matting and a washable bright yellow hand towel on the step to keep it nice. Besides, I found the diamond plate to be quite slick under wet feet. I learned years ago traveling in Baja, Mexico after a rain storm (really) how slippery diamond plate is. I still sport a scar on my shin that looks exactly like diamond plate!?
Jack

[Tango]

" I still sport a scar on my shin that looks exactly like diamond plate!?
Jack"

Oh...we gotta see pics of this!

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Originally Posted by Tango

Hey Robin...I actually considered sanding the tops down but decided it will look that way soon enough.

JR...just downloaded the PDF...many thanks pardner! Will sit down and go through it in the morning.

One thing I saw on the sheet I forgot to mention but don't like is it says your torque converter is still under A/E review?
Which to me means that the architect who chose your style and the engineer who told him what to chose still hasn't approved it for that application as of February 8/18.
So I would check with whoever your outside warranty program is.
Good luck.
Like the steps.
Never heard of hammerite?
Gotta look that up.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

One thing I saw on the sheet I forgot to mention but don't like is it says your torque converter is still under A/E review?
Which to me means that the architect who chose your style and the engineer who told him what to chose still hasn't approved it for that application as of February 8/18.
So I would check with whoever your outside warranty program is.
Good luck.
Like the steps.
Never heard of hammerite?
Gotta look that up.

get a 'KC' converter from CAC in florida and never look back... fantastic converter even on my 444E... and it was actually designed and built for a 4BT or 6BT first and foremost

-Christopher

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Just saying he needs to check with whoever is providing his warranty to make sure they know that Allison has still not approved it?
That way when he is on the road and hopefully not but does have tranny problems then if the TC was the issue then Allison can eat wrecker bill and all?
Just trying to help with some CYA.
I believe his tranny is already installed.
SO to pull it out to change a converter that Allison sent with it to an upgrade because ALLISON still don't know would be costing Allison some money and time.
I wouldn't push them to approve it but I would want the ones that sourced all of it for me and the ones warranting it for me to know that Allison still has not approved it application even after they sold it to me 6-years ago as of this year.

[Tango]

Wow...I had no idea. Totally missed the meaning there. Need to get back with Stewart & Stevenson (who I ordered it through) for clarification.

Many thanks!

[sojourner]

Fabulous fab work!! I'm thinkin' if you and I were in the same shop, things would get very dangerous!!
I'm thinking of using hammertone paint on the outside of my build. Charcoal grey from the floor down with black storage bay doors. Silver between the floor and bottom of the windows and white from there on up. How does hammerite compare to the rustoleum product? I too see 140% humidity here in SC. The two week cure time might just force me to take a break.

[Tango]

lol...I can manage to be dangerous all by myself! But thanks for the kind words.

I've had very good results with Hammerite. Pretty tough stuff once it is fully cured. And the attractive texture can hide a world of small issues. That was one reason I chose it for my dash/firewall (Which led to the steps). No amount of sanding was ever going to result in a smooth surface so why fight it? The original product came out of England, but the last few rattle cans I bought are marked as a Rustoleum product. (Maybe they just bought them?) But I have also seen a separate Rustoleum product simply called "Hammered" so I have to assume they are different. I know the original requires no primer and can go straight over rust or bare metal. No idea about the other one.

Meanwhile...

I just got my hydroboost unit back from CA. Had the guy I bought it from convert the input shaft to work with my new, all mechanical system. Also now have my adjustable proportioning valve so I hope to get some more brake work done this coming week.

[sdwarf36]

Spray hammertone paint is great for all the above mentioned reasons. Real good to cover up your sins. The only downside is outdoor durability. But it touches up real easy.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by Tango

I've had very good results with Hammerite. Pretty tough stuff once it is fully cured. And the attractive texture can hide a world of small issues. That was one reason I chose it for my dash/firewall (Which led to the steps). No amount of sanding was ever going to result in a smooth surface so why fight it? The original product came out of England, but the last few rattle cans I bought are marked as a Rustoleum product. (Maybe they just bought them?) But I have also seen a separate Rustoleum product simply called "Hammered" so I have to assume they are different. I know the original requires no primer and can go straight over rust or bare metal. No idea about the other one.

Meanwhile...

I just got my hydroboost unit back from CA. Had the guy I bought it from convert the input shaft to work with my new, all mechanical system. Also now have my adjustable proportioning valve so I hope to get some more brake work done this coming week.

The hiding a multitude of sins is precisely why I'm using it. There's just no way the exterior of a skoolie's gonna pull off a a really high quality finish. That's the main reason I'm doing more of a "utility" look on the outside and would prefer something relatively uniform and durable. The interior will be another story altogether.
I don't want to rattle can it though. Would rather buy gallons and paint with HVLP if possible.

Proportioning valve? Last time I heard that word was with a guy racing circle track.

Originally Posted by sdwarf36

Spray hammertone paint is great for all the above mentioned reasons. Real good to cover up your sins. The only downside is outdoor durability. But it touches up real easy.

I wonder how one might improve the durability?

[plfking]

Originally Posted by Tango

The original product came out of England, but the last few rattle cans I bought are marked as a Rustoleum product. (Maybe they just bought them?) But I have also seen a separate Rustoleum product simply called "Hammered" so I have to assume they are different. I know the original requires no primer and can go straight over rust or bare metal.

According to my old paint vendor, the Rustoleum "Hammered" is the normal Rustoleum formulation with an additive to separate the paint pigments and give it the 'hammered' look.

The Hammerite is a different formulation altogether.....it actually has a catalyst in it to produce a harder finish. It's a cheaper option than powercoating, but gives a similar result in hardness and chip-resistance (note I said 'similar', not 'better').

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by plfking

According to my old paint vendor, the Rustoleum "Hammered" is the normal Rustoleum formulation with an additive to separate the paint pigments and give it the 'hammered' look.

The Hammerite is a different formulation altogether.....it actually has a catalyst in it to produce a harder finish. It's a cheaper option than powercoating, but gives a similar result in hardness and chip-resistance (note I said 'similar', not 'better').

Hammerite has been the go-to paint finish for this kind of use in the UK, for decades.

It can be painted directly onto rust once the loose stuff has been removed.

[Tango]

The above exactly resembles my take on the two paint options. The Rustoleum "Hammered" is basically, regular rattlecan paint that accomplishes a similar finish/look...the "real Hammerite" is a much tougher, rust preventing/converting paint. But...as I said...the last cans of "Hammerite" I bought had the Rustoleum logo & branding (?).

[GuidoLyons]

after a quick Google, it looks like the UK Hammerite is different than the US Hammerite. UK Hammerite website doesn't list US as a Hammerite market: https://www.hammerite.com/

Hammerite rust cap paint in the US (sold at Ace Hardware, etc) is owned by MasterChem (not Rustoleum) Masterchem Industries

Masterchem Industries LLC is a national leader in the manufacture of architectural coatings, including primers, professional and one-coat paints, spray paints, rust-preventive coatings and more. The company markets primers and specialty paints under the KILZ® brand, professional paints under the KILZ Pro-X™ brand, one-coat paints under the KILZ® Casual Colors® brand and rust-preventive coatings under the Hammerite® Rust Cap® name. These products are sold on a nationwide basis to thousands of outlets, including big box stores, national retailers, paint and hardware stores and distributors.

The Rustoleum Hammered finish is similar. I've had good results with the Rustoleum Hammered finish. Covers a multitude of sins, looks good, works well, and makes for easy touch up if it does get scratched.


Tractor Supply Co used to carry a Valspar (or Rustoleum?) hardener with the tractor paint. Might be worth a look.