Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-20-2018, 10:40 AM   #3161
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
It is an Interstate that I built my start battery box to fit. Based on what I've read online, good service and a lot of bang for the buck. But I also just read somewhere that all AGM's require a different battery charger than conventional batteries (?). I can only guess they were referring to something other than the vehicle alternator. Or do they need something upstream on the vehicle system to stay happy?
Tango is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 10:47 AM   #3162
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 494
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
AGM batteries need a charge of roughly 2.25-2.3v per cell to be happy. You can get a regulator if need be to keep the alternator in check as most old school alternators put out around 2.4v per cell which can lead to overcharging on extended drives.

You want a float charge of around 13.6-13.8v when batteries are topped up.

Most smart chargers these days can handle AGMs.. old dumb chargers will cook them over time.
Mr4btTahoe is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 10:54 AM   #3163
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Thanks Tahoe. I definitely need to look into that when putting together the electrical. I need a power guru to help design the system I want.
Tango is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:02 AM   #3164
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 494
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
Most HD alternators can be tweaked to produce the outputs you want/need.

Newer alternators such as the one on my Tahoe are controlled via the ECU which drops charging voltage as the batteries are topped off. On long trips, I can see voltage as low as 13.2v running down the highway. Just after startup, I can see 14+v.

14v and under is idea for an AGM when they are near topped off.

As far as sizing of your batteries is concerned.. depending on what battery case size you built your brackets for.. you should be able to run any brand of battery in that group size. Do you recall what group the batteries are you used for mock-up?
Mr4btTahoe is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:11 AM   #3165
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
It is a Group 34 and one of the smallest I could find. Space on my rig is a major consideration. Looked at the batt you are using but it won't fit.

Interstate Part Number MT7-34
Group Size 34
Cold Cranking Amps 800
Cranking Amps 1000
Tango is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:23 AM   #3166
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 494
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
Yeah.. the 3100 is a traditional group 31. You would need a 3400 if you went with XS Power.

Group 34 is a fairly common size.. So I would go with what is readily available. Are you using multiple or just 1?
Mr4btTahoe is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 12:20 PM   #3167
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
I am going with a single group 34. According to the Cummins guys, 800-1000 cranking amps should be plenty to spin this 4 banger. Let's hope, cause I don't have room for another.
Tango is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:00 PM   #3168
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 494
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
1k should be enough as long as the cables and such are up to snuff. A gear reduction style starter will go a long way to help as well.

During winter, you'll want to use a block heater and potentially a smart charger to top it off on a regular basis. When temps get to the single digits, my D3100 would struggle from time to time by itself.

Could always keep a booster pack on board. Cold weather strikes... hook it up and bump up the cranking juice a good bit.
Mr4btTahoe is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:10 PM   #3169
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,521
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I have 2 oklder group 31 standard batteries on my DEV bus.. at 0f. that DT-360 takes a lot of cranking to get it spun over... you've probably seen my cold start videos.. it huffs and puffs (no glow plugs or grid heater and wasnt plugged in). and I never got any signs it was going to run out of battery.. im thinking your single group 34 will spin that 4BT easily.. esp if you are running synthetic oil, and if you are in temps at 20 or above..

that DT360 at temps of 20 or above starts up just like a regular gas engine.. im thinking your 4BT will be similar..

of course plugged in with a block heater it doesnt care what the temp outsude is.. it starts right up.
-Christopher
cadillackid is online now  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:55 PM   #3170
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
The plan is to wire this thing up so the House batts can act as backup. There will be 2 more 150ah agms in back tied in with something like 4/0 cable. I am also looking into a doodad called a "Thermostart" that some of the 4BTSwaps guys have installed and are very pleased with. Takes a fraction of the juice that glowplugs, gridheaters or a blockheater pulls. The thermostart device burns a small amount of fuel in the intake manifold to preheat the intake air. Apparently something farmers have been using for a long time. And personally...I'll take a fix that farmers come up with over "engineers" most any day.
Tango is offline  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:01 PM   #3171
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,521
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Sound like a great idea! Burn a little fuel to warm up the air stream coming in.
How about the Russian that lights a fire under his D80 dozer to get it started
Christopher
cadillackid is online now  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:05 PM   #3172
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Da commrade! Just make no beeg Kaboomski.
Tango is offline  
Old 03-21-2018, 09:03 AM   #3173
Bus Nut
 
sojourner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 660
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
The plan is to wire this thing up so the House batts can act as backup. There will be 2 more 150ah agms in back tied in with something like 4/0 cable. I am also looking into a doodad called a "Thermostart" that some of the 4BTSwaps guys have installed and are very pleased with. Takes a fraction of the juice that glowplugs, gridheaters or a blockheater pulls. The thermostart device burns a small amount of fuel in the intake manifold to preheat the intake air. Apparently something farmers have been using for a long time. And personally...I'll take a fix that farmers come up with over "engineers" most any day.
I've even used a propane torch (into the intake while cranking) to heat the incoming air in a really cold situation. It seemed to help. Another thing you might look into is a heater coil in the intake. Having been in the marine repair business most my career, I've seen this on Onan generators, Perkins and Volvo diesels of yesteryear.
Google "Intake Air Heater". There's lots of stuff out there.
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19

Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
sojourner is offline  
Old 03-21-2018, 09:10 AM   #3174
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
<...>Another thing you might look into is a heater coil in the intake.<...>
Is this the same, or the same concept, as "grid heater"?
dan-fox is offline  
Old 03-21-2018, 09:24 AM   #3175
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,521
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Is this the same, or the same concept, as "grid heater"?
I think so.. i like your idea.. Heat with a Fire not a Wire! ..

one reason living up north i'll NEVER live in a house that doesnt have Gas heat...

glowplugs do work but they pull a significant amount of current..

of course one of the other big issues with diesels in real cold weather is the oil.. you are trying to spin the engine faster to make more compression and heat. yet regular Dino oil is thick as molasses, which makes the starter require more power.. synthetics definitely help this issue and allow your engine to spin over faster...
-Christopher
cadillackid is online now  
Old 03-21-2018, 11:44 AM   #3176
Bus Nut
 
sojourner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 660
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Is this the same, or the same concept, as "grid heater"?
Yea, that's one name for them:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Engi...JXUKWD&vxp=mtr
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19

Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
sojourner is offline  
Old 03-22-2018, 08:46 AM   #3177
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
Wow, that thing looks like a lot of resistance to airflow! Is there ever any provision to bypass it when it's not in use?
dan-fox is offline  
Old 03-22-2018, 09:01 AM   #3178
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,521
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
if its on the forced induction side im guessing the resistance is less of an issue as you are pressurizing the air hitting it. (id think youd locate it as close to the engine as possible)..

-Christopher
cadillackid is online now  
Old 03-22-2018, 10:09 AM   #3179
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,331
If it's downstream of a turbo, yeah I can see that you could ignore that effect. Are they not used on NA engines?
dan-fox is offline  
Old 03-22-2018, 10:16 AM   #3180
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
"NA engines?" ????? Wazzat?
Tango is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
All Or Bussed! 1990 Chevy Shorty Bus mellowdaizy Short-Bus Conversion Projects 6 02-07-2014 07:35 AM
Wayne Bodied '54 Chevy Shorty on Ebay Tango Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 0 09-30-2011 09:52 AM
1955 Chevy shorty in CO: check this out! Stuff Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 2 08-05-2011 08:55 AM
1983 chevy shorty A/C question trentwyrick98 Short-Bus Conversion Projects 0 05-24-2011 02:11 AM
New Member, 1959 Chevy Shorty 59Shorty Skoolie Conversion Projects 2 07-24-2007 11:58 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×