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08-15-2018, 08:43 PM
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#3441
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,244
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Hey Tango, my bus had lead in the same spot--and rust, so I cut off the bottom 10 inches of the door and did away with both the rust AND the lead!
Sure looks like you are about to see the light at the end of the----------------->
with your excellent project. Jack
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08-15-2018, 08:46 PM
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#3442
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Good to know at least that the previous owner spent some time trying to keep it nice. Did you really think you had a pristine 72yo bus? It will be when your done.
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08-15-2018, 08:53 PM
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#3443
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dowdy Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 1,444
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
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Tang,
I really admire your work! I'm probably worse at body work than you are..... Keep on a goin'!!!!!!
School starts next week. I'm finishing up the homework assignments this week! YAY!!!!
See ya out here sometime?????
M
__________________
Firearms stand next in importance to the Constitution itself. They are the American people’s liberty teeth and keystone under independence. — George Washington
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08-16-2018, 12:18 AM
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#3444
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Jack --- are you sure that's not a train comin' this way?
01 --- Nah...had no such delusions but was definitely played by the thick coats of paint in many areas.
M1 --- I can't see how anyone could possibly be worse with bodywork than I am! But thanks for the encouragement. Best of luck with this years tribe of cannibals (I just spent the evening with a teacher friend of mine). OY!
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08-16-2018, 07:59 PM
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#3445
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Still more Bondo & holes --- Crud! Everywhere I sand I uncover more work to do. Getting close to having most of the paint off this rig but I am saving the fun part for last. The center of the roof. Gonna have to construct something to access it since you can't step on this old metal without crunching it in. Maybe a Jetson rocket pack will do the trick.
More spots on the door filled and more holes near the seam on the upper left. No welding on those...just fiber filled Bondo. And I am guessing it will take at least a couple of days to fill all the gaps with seam sealer before I can shoot any paint on.
I am beginning to get bored with this part of the build.
ON-WHATEVER!
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08-16-2018, 08:16 PM
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#3446
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I'm picturing a scene from Mission Impossible where Tom comes flying down, prone in a harness and block and tackles and stops about 6" off the floor. Hand him a DA and let him attack it.
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08-16-2018, 08:18 PM
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#3447
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Sounds like the rig I need. May re-assemble my engine hoist frame and see if I can balance on top of it but still not sure how to attack it without buying more tall ladders & lumber.
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08-16-2018, 08:36 PM
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#3448
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Use the roof trusses to drop chain from and hang a scaffold down to height preferred. You must have steel and or planking around to build out a deck.
Maybe a jet pack would lift you too?
John
__________________
Question everything!
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08-16-2018, 09:13 PM
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#3449
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,404
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1600
Engine: 6v-53n detroit
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Well I would say you are better then you think on body work. Just look at this way you are not cutting most of the skin off and making new stuff. I have that to do on one of our antique railroad cars, everything from the window sills down needs to be replaced. This will be the 4th car I have done this on and have two more to do the same. At least I do not have to do that on our bus.
Yours will be a real beauty when done.
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08-16-2018, 09:46 PM
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#3450
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Still more Bondo & holes --- Crud! Everywhere I sand I uncover more work to do. Getting close to having most of the paint off this rig but I am saving the fun part for last. The center of the roof. Gonna have to construct something to access it since you can't step on this old metal without crunching it in. Maybe a Jetson rocket pack will do the trick.
More spots on the door filled and more holes near the seam on the upper left. No welding on those...just fiber filled Bondo. And I am guessing it will take at least a couple of days to fill all the gaps with seam sealer before I can shoot any paint on.
I am beginning to get bored with this part of the build.
ON-WHATEVER!
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Maybe a Peter pan flying harness. Just kidding You are doing a great job Tango keep up the good work.
Gordon
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08-16-2018, 11:42 PM
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#3451
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Hey Ronnie --- Hate to tell ya but...
Mine was rusted through under the rubrails. With not so much as a coat of primer under there, it was only the rails holding it all together. The replacement panels are all made but will be one of the last exterior items installed. So much easier getting around underneath it without them
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08-17-2018, 09:08 AM
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#3452
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dowdy Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 1,444
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Hey Ronnie --- Hate to tell ya but...
Mine was rusted through under the rubrails. With not so much as a coat of primer under there, it was only the rails holding it all together. The replacement panels are all made but will be one of the last exterior items installed. So much easier getting around underneath it without them
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THAT is an old photo!!! I remember that shop! Kinda dates both of us huh?
My only concern with jetpacks is the heat they generate. You could bar-b-que the roof..... On second thought........ Easy to remove the paint that way, no real effort involved..... Of course all the material below the sheet metal would be a bit crispy....... Just sayin'.
M
__________________
Firearms stand next in importance to the Constitution itself. They are the American people’s liberty teeth and keystone under independence. — George Washington
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08-17-2018, 12:08 PM
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#3453
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,404
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1600
Engine: 6v-53n detroit
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Oh my, yup been there. Our railroad dining car before and after.
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08-17-2018, 01:12 PM
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#3454
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Spectacular conversion Ronnie, what time is dinner?
John
__________________
Question everything!
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08-17-2018, 02:44 PM
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#3455
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,404
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1600
Engine: 6v-53n detroit
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08-17-2018, 11:49 PM
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#3456
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Simply outstanding! --- Gotta love that old school elegance.
Been a long past few weeks. Getting the damned latex paint off this beast is wearing me out. Amazing how tiring 6 straight hours of hefting a 7" grinder at arms length can get. But...I am getting close to wrapping this phase up. One of the surprise hassles has been picking up crinkly wires thrown off the grinder. They are all over my shop. Forty feet from where I am working. And then there is the time spent pulling them out of my gloves, clothes and butt. Yes, butt. I was in bed a couple of days ago and just about asleep when I rolled over and one that I didn't even feel (until then), snagged on the sheets and brought me back to consciousness. Abruptly. I couldn't even pull it out with my fingers. I had to get a pair of pliers. That sucker was 1/2" deep!
And yes...I am wearing a hard plastic face shield and long gloves...but...they seem to find a way in no matter what.
Good thing I am getting close to finishing up. This part of the build has NOT been fun.
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08-18-2018, 06:07 AM
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#3457
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,404
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1600
Engine: 6v-53n detroit
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Are you using the knotted wire wheels or the crimped style? the knotted ones do not loose so many wires, and last a long time.
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08-18-2018, 10:06 AM
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#3458
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I have both types but have found the crimped style cuts this paint better. Also cuts a much wider swath so I chose to deal with it's issues in trade for moving a bit quicker.
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08-18-2018, 11:18 AM
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#3459
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
Tango - *EVERYTHING* on your bus is a Cut-to-fit project lolol..
-Christopher
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We discovered this after testing different weather stripping for the top of some windows. Then we thought ok, and used the same weatherstripping at the top of several window openings and discovered that no, we needed to test fit each and every window and adjust the weather stripping accordingly. We used 4 different kinds in several different configurations and in some windows we had to use one kind part way across or only on the edges! This is just ONE of the reasons it took us a solid week (spread over 2-3 weeks) to get the window openings sealed back up and we still haven't sikkaflexed the outside yet!!!!! That's a verb, right?
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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08-18-2018, 03:05 PM
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#3460
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I hear ya. BTW...Sika makes some of the best adhesives on planet Earth, but my personal preference for use on any vehicle is an OEM grade seam sealer. Seals like crazy, is paintable in about 15 minutes, comes in black, white & gray, is highly UV resistant and stays flexible forever. 3M is one of the best but there are other brands as well. You can find it online (Amazon) or at most auto paint & body supply houses.
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