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09-24-2014, 02:26 PM
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#761
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Roger the baking soda to neuter --- In fact, vinegar or a wide range of other "mild" acids can be used to clean metal...even citric acid.
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09-25-2014, 07:20 AM
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#762
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
wow! learn something everyday! and to think the plant chemist that told me about using muriatic acid and then rinsing with vinegar......... so in the future, it will be baking soda wash!!!! thanks guys.
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09-25-2014, 10:39 AM
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#763
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Easy to get confused --- It's a pH thing. Need an alkaloid to offset an acid and vice versa.
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09-25-2014, 09:59 PM
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#764
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
I bent a lug on our family truck once when it fell of a makeshift jack. I just spun on a lug nut and whacked the bugger with a 5 pounder. The frame eventually cracked but that lug was fine to the end.
Glad to see you're back in harness, bus wise.
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09-26-2014, 04:31 PM
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#765
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
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09-26-2014, 05:46 PM
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#766
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
No idea of the make or model but I am 100% certain it is SWEEEET! Thanks for sharing.
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09-26-2014, 07:08 PM
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#767
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
More "baby Steps" --- Managed to get all four window deletes completed and welded in. Also have the passenger side, rear body panel ready to weld, so that is just waiting on a locking, stainless steel fuel door hatch at the sheet metal shop. I want to make sure everything lines up before I nail it down. And...in yet another senior moment, realized it might be prudent to put an access hatch over the fuel tank sending unit. It will be hidden under the sofa/bunk...someday.
Passenger side deletes...
...driver side deletes...
...interior view...all the gaps will be filled flush with automotive seam sealer...
...sending unit hatch behind filler neck...
...new rear body panel, minus mill scale, plus primer...ready to mount...
...and finally, the OEM windows which have to be replaced. Once the frames are down inside the body panels and cabinets & such built over them...no way to replace the glass without a big time demo...so they go.
All for now.
Onward!
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09-26-2014, 08:06 PM
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#768
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Hey Tango. Your window deletes look like a factory option. Once again you have out done yourself with your own metal work . No senior moment there, your inspection plate just means you'll never have to repair your sending unit . The sending unit on my diesel tank can be accessed on the side of the tank (which also has a drain bung) so I should be OK there but the sending unit in the 8 gal genny tank will require tank removal for repair though there is a bung to drain the tank. I did remember to use an inline fuel pump for the genny rather than a submerged one. I do learn, though not easily. I had a nearly new Ford Tempo who's fuel pump was in the tank. The tank was under the floor under the rear seat. The stupid thing quit on me while I was traversing a hoity toity gated neighborhood. I slunk out of the neighborhood, bought a replacement pump, a heavy hammer, a sharp chisel and a few hand tools and returned to the car where I quickly removed the rear seat bottom, tossed it in the front seat, closed the doors and proceeded to cut a hole in the floor pan to get at the top loader pump. I had the car running again before the cops arrived--we waved at each other as I drove off Soooooo, I remembered the fuel pump----. Jack
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09-28-2014, 09:07 PM
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#769
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Howdy All --- More Baby Steps. In case anyone else encounters mill scale or rust and does not have Ol' Trunts magic pond to dip things in...here is what I came across. Muriatic acid does the trick on both. Given that I've had body parts lying about for two years in good ol' Houston humidity, I HAD to do something before all those new chunks of steel totally rusted through. I've used acid to clean metal before but never to remove scale. It works as well on the mill scale as it does on rust. Did find that it tends to pool in some areas and miss others so I tried an old art trick. Added a tiny bit of soap to the acid and it made it cling everywhere I put it. Worked like a champ.
You DO need to exercise plenty of caution. Remember...it is real acid. It can blind you in a heartbeat and you don't want to breathe the fumes. Heavy rubber gloves, good fitting goggles and a big fan helped keep the bad stuff at bay with no issues.
Here's the results on the hatch cover to my tank drain.
Like I said...new metal + Houston humidity and this is what you get.
Here is the same steel after about 15 minutes with the acid applied.
After rinsing thoroughly & drying, about sixty seconds work with a stripping pad and ...waalaa! Clean metal with a nice "tooth" ready for priming. I shot a few coats of self-etching primer and now it should be good to sit until installed. Whenever that might be.
Onward!
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09-28-2014, 09:35 PM
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#770
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
You should have just bought new steel, you dont have to do anything to it to get it to look new. ;)
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09-29-2014, 02:53 PM
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#771
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Looks good don't forget primer isn't water proof and it can absorb moister and rust under the primer!!!
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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09-29-2014, 05:51 PM
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#772
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Believe it or not --- that WAS new metal. Problem being, I'm now into my third year on this crusade and Houston's notorious humidity has taken its' toll on many of the pieces that have been "in progress" for a couple of years. All I'm trying to do now is slow it down. All of the steel I am putting on the exterior side will eventually get sandblasted off if I can ever get to the painting stage. All the interior sides of the sheetmetal are getting a rust converter and insulating paint before they go on.
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10-01-2014, 05:36 PM
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#773
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
hey T
you should airbrush weeble wobble people in the window blanks, esp. since it's the short bus
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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10-01-2014, 10:41 PM
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#774
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Hey Bansil --- I wuz thinkin' Hobbits.
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10-18-2014, 10:53 AM
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#775
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
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10-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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#776
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Sweeeeeeeeeet !!!
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10-18-2014, 09:34 PM
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#777
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Got a little progress made today but my camera died --- Will try and get some pix manana. Swapped out the old front leaf springs for new and removed the old rear axle. Did a test fit of the new Dana 80 and now need to fab some spring mounts in the right locations. Will likely order new rear leaf springs as well. The originals seem pretty tired after only seventy years on the road for some reason. God bless Eaton Detroit. Seems they have just about any suspension item from Conestoga wagons forward.
Onward!
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10-18-2014, 11:40 PM
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#778
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 36
Year: 1951
Coachwork: Wayne/ IHC
Chassis: L-163 International
Engine: SD240 / 4 sp.
Rated Cap: 39
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Nice work!
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10-20-2014, 05:17 PM
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#779
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Thanks Tbart, Here's a few Catch Up pix ---
Shiny new front springs from Eaton Detroit. They seem to have suspension parts for just about anything. Even this old rig. Plus, they gave me an extra 300#'s lift to help hold up the diesel transplant. Just ordered new for the rear as well.
Out with the old...
...in with the new. A '98 Chevy C3500 HD Dana 80 dually with a fresh ring & pinion set.
I am fabbing new spring mounts since the '46 is actually wider there than this new "Wide Track". Will be at least a couple of weeks before I have the new leaf springs for it. Meanwhile, back at the Ranch House...
Still have plenty of other chores to keep me busy. Since I could not use the original windows, that leaves the inner & outer skins looking like this...hmmmm, it needs something.
How'za'bout this...
Made some flanges to tie the inside & outside skin together. I think the RV windows will fit much better once these are riveted in place.
Decided to paint them & the metal under them before I lock in place. A little Seam Sealer on the outside should help as well. The new aluminum framed windows have flanges all around, inside and out.
AND...
...if you know anyone in need of 20 x 5 rims & tires for 1942 to early '47 1.5 Ton Chevy trucks...
I have a full set (6) all with drivable tires for $125 each. Hard to find these days and I'd hate to see'em go to waste.
More work to get done...
Onward!
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10-20-2014, 08:48 PM
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#780
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty
Hey Tango, too much fun! Was Eaton et al able to keep the height of the spring pack the same as original when they beefed up the capacity 300#? How are you securing the inserts you made for the windows--weld, screw, rivet, glue? Of course I can't resist saying that the HD shed windows would fit perfectly in those new openings, and you must have measured wrong etc. nag, nag, nag.
Looking good and I'd say you have the old girl on the run! Jack
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