'46 Chevy Shorty

[Tango]

Actually, there is a lot of space left under the hood. But it's all in front of the engine. Good thing, cause I still have a lot of stuff to cram in there. And I am still considering adding another crossmember to replace the original engine mount that was chopped out long ago. That and possibly a removable splash pan.

And the dog-bone idea has been tossed about. These 4-bangers have a legendary reputation for rattling side to side, especially on startup and shutdown. I saw one on which the builder had installed a pair of very stiff shock absorber/struts, one on each side of the motor to try and counter the movement.

They don't call the 4BT "the paint shaker" for nuthin'.

Will be getting on the steering situation today. Having to meld/weld some of my antique parts onto the '03 Isuzu NPR stuff and want to get it right.

I just hate it when the steering comes apart while going down the road.

[Tango]

Back again --- Here's a couple of pix to give you some idea of what the steering slow down has been about. I have been working on mating some 70+ year old Chevy steering components to the '03 Isuzu NPR power steering system. No doubt and everyday problem you have all had to deal with, right?


Here is the massive Isuzu power steering drag link. For some reason the ball joint on the end that connects to the track-rod arm at the wheel was different than on the Chevy part (?). Apparently some things have changed a bit over the last 7 decades so I was left no choice but to do a little more cobbling together of the old & new.


Here are "before & after" shots of the old ball joints I cut off the original Chevy drag link. The lower one has a shaft diameter of 5/8". The upper, threaded version is what will go onto the Isuzu drag link. It's diameter was welded up, then turned and threaded to 3/4" to beef it up a bit. My machine shop buddies are now fabbing a female threaded section that will get welded onto the end of the Isuzu drag link to accept this part and give me about 1/2" of adjustment either way. That should help get my steering properly aligned and once in place it will be secured with a big jam nut.

Piece-O-Cake...right?

ONWARD!

[Docsgsxr]

You are definitely braver than me on manufacturing critical components! Keep it up, I may just have to take a weekend and come see it in person!!

[Robin97396]

Every little step gets you closer to taking a long drive.

[Tango]

Looks like I will be (once again) waiting on steering parts this weekend, so I am finishing up the design for my freshwater system and a few other "minor" items. Just ordered three, 12 gallon Valterra ABS tanks from a local RV dealer and will be laying out the steel supports that will go in the interior and get welded to the passenger side wheel well.

Got lucky yesterday and found what appears to be the correct length serpentine belt on the first try. Given the addition of an A/C compressor and very different routing, the folks at Cummins (understandably) didn't have a clue. Measured it off using a cloth tailors tape which indicated about 69-1/2". I guessed at 68" using 1-1/2" as an allowance for the tensioner and low and behold it seems to actually fit with what feels like the right tension. But I really won't know until I crank it up and see if it squeals like a pig or not.

Maybe more pix over the weekend...maybe not. Meanwhile...

Happy Mother's Day!

(a great follow up to all the Cinco de Mayo parties & hangovers here)

[FlyboyHPD]

Here's one for you Tango .

https://fredericksburg.craigslist.or...571943229.html

[Scooternj]

Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD

Here's one for you Tango .

https://fredericksburg.craigslist.or...571943229.html

Definitely *not* a drive-away.

[Tango]

Nice sized vintage rig but a tad over priced to my thinking. Without a running engine you really have no idea what the rest of the running gear is up to. That said...the fifties era skoolies have a straight ladder frame that will accept just about any engine with ease (unlike my narrow nosed '46). Drop a Cummins 6BT in there and it could tow a house while running coast-to-coast around the clock with the right gearing.

Good potential there at maybe $3000.00

[Tango]

Hooo-Doggie! --- My three, 12 gallon Valterra water tanks came in and I picked them up today. At least now I can start welding up the frame and support system for them. Have not had the chance to get any work done at all for the last week or so and it has been making me crazy! With any luck, I may also have the final steering parts before the week is out which will allow me to finalize the dash & firewall design as well as hook up the last of the steering components. There might even be a few, fresh pix coming soon. Besides...I need the exercise after doing nothing for this long.

ONWARD!

[ol trunt]

Three, 12 gallon tanks? Splain please???? Jack

[M1031A1]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Three, 12 gallon tanks? Splain please???? Jack

Jack,

Near as I can figure, now correct me if I'm wrong, three times twelve is near abouts thirty six, gallons that is.

If Tango has a split personality, if he splits it three ways, I figure that's as good a split as anyone could get. It's a nice odd number. Now seen's how most of us are odd to begin with anyway, present company included, I'm a hopin' my Splaination, well, um, holds water..........

(I hope the build-up to the pun is worth it )

M1031

[Tango]

M is not that far off Jack...

My freshwater tank(s) will be indoors. No room left below and indoors they will remain more temperature stable. I chose ABS for the reasons below. Could have gone with a single poly tank but...

A.) Having owned several before, I hate the plastic taste they give water...B.) they are prone to algae & mold...C.) none of the poly units I saw had any baffling at all...and...D.) ABS fittings can be cemented while the poly can only be "spin welded".

However, the baffled ABS tanks from Valterra are only avail in set dimensions. They are all 8" x 16" x whatever length to accommodate different volumes. Hence, I am using 3-12 gallon units at 8x16x24 each which will give me 36 gallons and the final measures I need to work with of 24x16x24. I will have to interconnect them all but that is easy with the ABS material. Plus, they are mold & algae resistant.

Does any of this make any sense at all?

[M1031A1]

Originally Posted by Tango

M is not that far off Jack.....

My wife begs to differ...... She says I'm waaaaay off to begin with, insisting I went further off with my previous post.......

[Tango]

Grrrrrrrr!!! --- just discovered that one of the three tanks is not sized correctly. It is 3/8" longer than the other two. Unusual for Valterra but hey...stuff happens. I need the advertised length of exactly 24" in order to fit the frame that is already under construction. We'll see how good Customer Service is at PPL Motorhomes...I just now called.

[Jolly Roger]

Has anyone tried this blue laser glue stuff the big box (for me lowes ) is selling?
If it actually works I could rebuild my salvaged poly tanks and get them 3-4" higher?

[Tango]

Never heard of it...tell us more.

[ol trunt]

I went here: https://4d625a634a7e262a4a8d-933be60...structions.pdf. to view mfg's instruction and safety sheet.

From what the sheet says,I don't think I'd want my drinking water anywhere near the product and I'm doubtful what with the waxy/greasy surface quality of the standard RV water tanks that the bond would last.

What think the rest of you? Jack

[somewhereinusa]

It's just another of the epoxys that harden under uv light. I doubt if it's dangerous after it hardens, I also doubt that it would adhere very well to either kind of RV rank.

[Robin97396]

I'd say there is high potential for leakage, now or later. Glue your rhinstones back on with the laser glue.

[cadillackid]

ive had badluck with glues of any type when pertaining to liquids.. theres been a ton of products out there but the problem I think is that no one truly knows what the checmical makeup of the water is that goes in contact with the glue.. every tap water is different... different pH, different minerals, etc...

-Christopher