'46 Chevy Shorty - Page 51

sdwarf36 · 06-11-2015, 08:51 PM

Does anyone else go through design session down time periods?

Yea-but then the alarm wakes me up.

Why schedule 40 instead of 2" mild steel?

Tango · 06-11-2015, 09:54 PM

I had originally spec'd 1/4"wall pipe, but my local shop only had schedule 40 on the floor...so...it'll do.

sdwarf36 · 06-12-2015, 05:57 AM

onlinemetals.com
They'll sell a foot-or a mile.

Tango · 06-13-2015, 10:00 AM

Howdy All --- Been playing with plans for my new dash/firewall/doghouse. I decided to work up some templates given that my math is not adequate to calculate all the funky angles involved.

Since I could not get a direct measure across the front sides of the opening (the trans hump is in the way)...I dug out an old set of oversized dividers I put together years ago for use on my sculptural work. They confirmed what I needed to know and will likely come in handy for other such situations.

Working with a mix of cardboard & foamcore. The dash/firewall is the white foamcore stuff and the tan cardboard is part of the floor plate.

Here are all the major pieces that make up the doghouse. Would have been simpler if it were square but I needed to slant the driver side in to make room for my pedals & feet. Still need to cut the opening into the firewall for that space. It will be a separate box to accommodate the steering column and pedals.

Only 13" high and about 16"deep but should allow engine access that would otherwise be a royal PITA. Also provides a spot to set a tasty adult beverage. But only when parked, of course. Also have to work out the sealing mechanisms but think I might have a solution I can live with.

Next comes translating it all into steel. Then again...maybe I can just add more tape and get by with foamcore.

Onward!

M1031A1 · 06-13-2015, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango

Howdy All --- Been playing with plans for my new dash/firewall/doghouse. I decided to work up some templates given that my math is not adequate to calculate all the funky angles involved.

Since I could not get a direct measure across the front sides of the opening (the trans hump is in the way)...I dug out an old set of oversized dividers I put together years ago for use on my sculptural work. They confirmed what I needed to know and will likely come in handy for other such situations.

Working with a mix of cardboard & foamcore. The dash/firewall is the white foamcore stuff and the tan cardboard is part of the floor plate.

Here are all the major pieces that make up the doghouse. Would have been simpler if it were square but I needed to slant the driver side in to make room for my pedals & feet. Still need to cut the opening into the firewall for that space. It will be a separate box to accommodate the steering column and pedals.

Only 13" high and about 16"deep but should allow engine access that would otherwise be a royal PITA. Also provides a spot to set a tasty adult beverage. But only when parked, of course. Also have to work out the sealing mechanisms but think I might have a solution I can live with.

Next comes translating it all into steel. Then again...maybe I can just add more tape and get by with foamcore.

Onward!

I can translate it from English to Spanish for ya too!!!!!!

ol trunt · 06-13-2015, 09:08 PM

That's real exciting Tango! At the risk of making more work for you, how about bending up some small diameter tail pipe material and then tacking the flat surfaces to it so you have user friendly edges rather than sharp ones. Jack

Tango · 06-14-2015, 08:05 AM

Funny you should mention Jack --- I am considering working up a "wire frame" of the upper area out of 1" tubing for that reason as well as to add some stiffness to the whole thing. But in the final analysis, the sheetmetal shop that will be doing about 75% of this project will likely make that call. The fit and sealing around the front and edges will be critical and we are looking at a couple of ways to go about it. It needs to completely seal out any fumes but still be easy to remove for maintenance.

This ought'a be fun.

nat_ster · 06-14-2015, 11:07 AM

I have used epoxy shoved into my weld seams before I got a good welder that could lay a decent bead. Sealed up the pin holes nice.

A few ribs bent into the metal would give the same strength as the tubing frame.

Nat

ElizaHasAPlan · 06-17-2015, 10:26 AM

I ran into this today, and thought you'd enjoy having a look at it. His door looks like what you're doing with yours:

1961 Chevy bus

ol trunt · 06-17-2015, 11:04 AM

Wow! To bad the guy can't finish it as he sure has excellent metal finishing skills. I'd say he's losing his a$$ on that project. Tango, how about taking on another project--I'd help--promise (with some limitations like your moving in next door etc). Jack

opus · 06-17-2015, 11:08 AM

You both have my support! If one is good, 2 must be better.

Tango · 06-17-2015, 12:44 PM

Can't afford to buy it but would love to hire him to help with my metal work. Great looking craftsmanship from what I can see.

Sadly, I seriously doubt he'll get anything close to what he's asking.

Tango · 06-17-2015, 01:27 PM

On the "progress" front --- Managed to get some insulation in place then back to head scratching on the dash/firewall/doghouse thing.

Needed 1-1/2" to fill the four window deletes so I wound up using a triple layer of 1/2". Works out to R-9.6 according to the chart. And that is over several coats of the HyTech insulating paint.

The body panel next to the pilot's chair also has the HyTech paint treatment but with the "bubble-wrap" Mylar insulation. May have room to add another layer but have to wait on fitting the roll-up window to tell.

The dash/firewall will be fabbed out of 1/8th" steel as will be the floor pan, doghouse and a box that the pedals & steering will go in to. All that will be heavily insulated for heat & sound on the backside.

First pass at chopping down a '90 Chevy 2500 van brake pedal. Took about 5" off the top of the bracket and 1-1/2" out of the pedal arm. Still had to go back and shorten it all more. It came with the master cylinder & power booster I am using.

Handed off more sheetmetal templates to my local shop today. The whole firewall/doghouse set. Still need to work with them on how to arrange the seals but they are swamped with big money work right now. My piddley paying jobs go to the back of the line, but they do such good work, I don't mind waiting a bit. Just not toooo long.

Onward!

opus · 06-17-2015, 01:35 PM

ol trunt · 06-17-2015, 07:40 PM

Hey Tango, I love to back seat engineer--I learned the technique from my wife. It seems to me that you'll need an engine hoist to lift the inspection plate/cover if you use 1/8" steel plate--that s$$$ is heavy. What were your reasons for going so heavy?

I used the same sheet insulation as you though my walls allowed for 2". I also put 2" under the floor, reflective side facing the ground. I discovered that the genny muffler produced enough heat to cause a section of the foam to shrink up into a hard sheet. The muffler is a good 4" below the floor so I was surprised at the problem. I replaced the section of foam and added an 18 ga. heat shield topped with a layer of muffler wrap (think Pep Boys motorcycle stuff). So far this seems to be working. I also used a couple of rolls of the wrap on the front of the cowl behind the engine along with a reflective finish. Jack

PS This is the third try at commenting so it will be interesting to see if it takes this time. Instead of seeing my post, I've been enjoying a scrolled version of Opus's big yellow thumbs up!?????? Sort of reminded me of Welk's bubble machine on his '50's TV show.

opus · 06-17-2015, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Sort of reminded me of Welk's bubble machine on his '50's TV show.

Golly, I remember that....but I only remember the 60's forward version. I'm not as "experienced" as you two. ;)

HolyBus · 06-17-2015, 09:18 PM

Just a 2cent input here but I can picture a custom cluster gauges box attached to the current firewall that could double to hide a steering column support bracket.

Just a thought.

ol trunt · 06-17-2015, 09:41 PM

Umm, 120 mph in a school bus---Tango will be all over that! Jack

sdwarf36 · 06-17-2015, 09:49 PM

You gotta be careful about shortening your brake pedal. There is a certian pedal ratio that Chevy (or whoever) built into the system. (between 5:1 +7:1.) Ive changed my racecars ratio due to lack of room vs comfort. Once I got a good fit, now I gotta push real hard. You dont what to have to have to use both feet to slow the bus down.
Lean more here: Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Pedal Assemblies Tech Tips

Tango · 06-17-2015, 11:17 PM

Great data sdwarf36 --- thank you. I basically had no choice and I'm hoping the booster will aid with keeping the pedal effort within reason.

HolyBus --- Love the simple, retro look of that dash but I'm looking at a minimum of seven gauges. I hope to keep a similar appearance while accommodating all the extra diesel gauge stuff.

Jack --- The 1/8th" concept is based on the need for rigidity in all the elements. Especially the area where the pedals & steering need to mount. I'm even looking at adding a few "stiffeners" to the backside out of some angle or small square tube to help. The doghouse itself is not really all that big so weight is not a great concern.

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