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Old 11-19-2018, 08:39 PM   #3701
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Am I getting this right guys? That 2" hose will go into that instrument enclosure as well with the louvres out the bottom of the enclosure down onto the windshield?


John


Hearing you on the fixed enclosure tango and good on the thermocouple run too but as Chris mentioned , no cutting of it, direct to the instrument.
Where are all the other wires going to comee up to the enclosure, left side and in the end of it?

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Old 11-19-2018, 08:45 PM   #3702
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Roger that. The vent hose enters on the left end and will hook up to a couple of vents directed at the windshield...I hope.



All of the wiring to the gauges comes up through the wall/floor and into some piping that will also attach at the left end of the console. Was playing with that today. Will try and get some pix in the next day or so.
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:53 PM   #3703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Roger that. The vent hose enters on the left end and will hook up to a couple of vents directed at the windshield...I hope.



All of the wiring to the gauges comes up through the wall/floor and into some piping that will also attach at the left end of the console. Was playing with that today. Will try and get some pix in the next day or so.

Seems like the enclosure will be pretty full when done but what vehicle isn't crammed full of stuff.

Awful nice of Chris to offer those materials , hope they pan out.
Thru all this make sure to REHAB without fail! Ease your mind...



John
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:56 PM   #3704
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
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Year: 1965
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Chassis: International Scout
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 2
Tango- Check out Old Air Products based in DFW. That's who I used for the A/C kit in my Scout.
https://www.oldairproducts.com/categ...vers-switching


Lots of cool little bits and pieces, vent hose, etc.
This one is pretty small, 2" hose. 2.5" mounting hole.

Round Dual Vane Louver, Chrome, for 2" Duct Hose
2-5/8" Diameter, Requires 2-1/2" hole for mounting
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I've also got some extra bits that I didn't use that I'll grab next time I go back to Corpus. You're welcome to them if you can use them, 2 defrost vents, and 2 or maybe 4? rectangle vents.



https://www.oldairproducts.com/produ.../defrost-ducts
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:55 AM   #3705
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Many thanks for the feedback & offers! What a great group we have here!



And yes...it will be very tight inside the console. Part of my problem has been trying to find really tight 90 degree fittings to connect the duct (now 2" per Cadillac's' recommendation) to the vents. That is the part I was considering as a candidate for 3D printing since I've not found anything "on the shelf" so far.


And Roger REHAB! It is what keeps me sane. Well...sort of sane...or at least unconcerned with the concept of sanity. After all, deciding to build a Skoolie is considered legal grounds for commitment in an asylum in most states.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:24 AM   #3706
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ha! building a skoolie or building a custom vehicle is grounds on its own to msake one go cray-cray. ..then theres tango and is doin Both at the same time on the same bus!! thank god for REHAB!
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Old 11-20-2018, 01:14 PM   #3707
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I do like those fittings that Guido posted, the fisheye ones. They should work as the heat will disperse across the windshield. The dimensions across the dash are making me wonder how close those need to be. If 2 of them are mounted in there, does that do both sides of the windshield


That piece of real estate around the enclosure and driver's seat will take some thought to put it together and look good. My concern is not getting a blind spot for your vision coming down that left front pillar but seems like no other route to me.
May have to run some wires inside the 2" a/c duct as I have no idea how many wires will be need at this point, will just say many for now.
Where is the speedo location also?
Any room on the firewall on the outside directly in front of the driver, well left side anywhere.


Wondering all this for ease of building and cost of material to complete. Might shock you for all you need so have another tonic, or a double.




What is going to happen directly behind the driver's seat? Any partition or something else there. Just wondering because you are going to need a fuse panel mounted somewhere for dc only and not sure how many switches you will need and where they can go. Sure needs some planning and layout before going ahead.


Are the wiper motors? going in the enclosure too? I ask because I thought all the guages could terminate in there on terminal strips for ease of installation and removal if ever necessary.


Are you having to make up pigtails on those guages or are they done by mfg? If you have to do them better hold off doing that till congestion problem is solved. Each guage will need about minimum of 3 terminals maybe 4 in some cases. And then there is fusing to fit in for lighting and guage protection.lots to consider Tango.


Can't wait to hear more and pics would def help determine location possibilities. Hope we are all up to the task, I kid you not. This is gonna be a tough one to pull off. That said, what on that rig hasn't been an enginner's nightmare?


Off for some bottled smoke, need a refill!


John
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:43 PM   #3708
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Just pullin' wires --- Without a clue. Hopefully some of these will wind up connected to the right doodads.



One loom goes up to where the console will be. Will house the hot leads as well as bring a few of the gauge connections down to their sources. Will get some of the red Hammerite paint so that the blue doesn't contrast quite so much.



This is where the other end goes down into the body to hook up with the senders. Used some closed cell pool noodle to isolate the wiring inside the body panel.


But my biggest concern is the trans wiring.



A sh*t ton of wires that I have no clue how to connect. Hey Cadillac...any idea where these suckers should go? Some are labeled, some are not (including one mystery gray wire with nothing on it). No idea how to connect them all to the trans. Is there a "connector" they should go into?


BTW...I somehow wound up with a spare TCM and ECM. I will happily trade them both for some of your wisdom on hooking this monster up.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:56 PM   #3709
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there should be a large round connector that plugs into the trans itself... then along the harness you will have 3 little 2 pin connectors with wires just long enough to reach the 3 speed sensors along the trans... from the main harness you have one large connector that plugs into your TCM.. and then ther mess of wires. that you shoiw there..



where did you get your harness? is that from CAC? if so I'll snag the instruction sheet that came with my set and will tell you the wire colors..



ultimately the wiring isnt as daunting as it appears... there will be a BAT (POS ALL THE TIME), an IGN(hot with key)... brown is likely VSS which is what will go to your speedometer.. one will be ground, one (or possibly 2) will be your throttle input, if its CAC they may have given you access to the Tap shift wire (you can up and downshift electronically).. should be a Neutral safety and also a reverse light lead ..



I'll start looking for the diagrams i made of the wiring on mine.



-Christopher
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:17 PM   #3710
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No connector...just a passle of loose wires. Same on both of the units I have (?). I was thinking there should be some kind of connector(s) to plug into the trans but did not get any such device with either set.


I will go back and copy off what is marked on the wires.
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Old 11-21-2018, 04:46 AM   #3711
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So there’s a connector that plugs into the tcm and then just goes to a bunch of loose wires? Or no connectors at all? Just a bundle of wires?

If you look at the trans itself at the left side rear there’s a round outlet, and along the trans are 3 more 2 pin plugs . Back middle and front. You’ll want a pre made harness for that . Perhaps you didn’t have one made since back then you likely didn’t know where your tcm might land .?

Christopher
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Old 11-21-2018, 07:18 AM   #3712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
No connector...just a passle of loose wires. Same on both of the units I have (?). I was thinking there should be some kind of connector(s) to plug into the trans but did not get any such device with either set.


I will go back and copy off what is marked on the wires.

I have no idea why the OEM didn't supply you with the proper harnesses necessary, likely something to do with money. Probably worth calling them on this even if they only tell you part numbers that could be ordered for pre-made cables and how many of each type.



Can you get pics of the fittings on the tranny and TCM to see what types are needed?

Two companies come to mind to google connectors and cables..Amphenol and Panduit. Just take a look at the images they provide and see if any are of the same type as what you have. They are high quality and made for hazardous conditions which I would call the underside of the vehicle.

Yes, they can be made with a sizeable investment of time and frustration.
Your understanding of what is happening inside the transmission has to be
something of the vision of Christopher for it all to make sense.
Did they give you schematic drawings for the tranny and TCM. Sure hope so if you go the build your own cable routes. And then all this is labor intensive to solder correctly so hope your skills in that respect are excellent.
It can be done however with proper direction or coaching.
If you have no luck talking with the OEM, take pics o tranny and TCM into a electrical wholesaler and sit down and explain what you need. They are willing to find what you need and tell you what is best suited as far as cables and connectors.

From my experience having made up hundreds of these cables, it is a royal pain but paid well. Time spent did not matter but in your case, time is everything to get smoke happening.
If I could come down I would but that is not happening in this lifetime, sorry. No entry to US for me.



John
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Old 11-21-2018, 07:20 AM   #3713
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its definitely worth buying the big harness and not making it yourself.. I bought mine.. i thiought i had a spare one but if i did, i no longer do.. I do have a guy who makes them for considerably less $$ than the dealer can.. nevertheless they arent cheap as the connectors themselves are pricey..



-Christopher
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Old 11-21-2018, 07:34 PM   #3714
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Got Metal? --- YES! Yes I do! The guys at BendIt (ya...that really is the company name) came through in spades. Not only did they bend everything perfectly...when I asked "How Much"...the kid told me.."No Charge...we just like what you are doing". Really? No foolin'? Nope. They did all this work for free!!! How frikkin' awesome is that?! I was prepared for a $500 bill!



Here are two (of three) corner pieces in 1" x 2" rectangular tube...bent to perfection.



Still need to cut,fit & weld them onto the rest of the frame but this should look pretty good.


And then there are the ladder parts...



Here are the ladder rails laid up on the template I made. Dead on. And the curve is not constant so their computer could not knock these out. They had to be fitted by eye & hand. Nice work guys!




SO glad I went with my gut on this and matched the curve rather than just do some right angle work. Went WAY overboard (as usual) as the tubing is 1-1/4" schedule 40. Seriously stout stuff, but will help support the whole ladder system.



Just the outer piece in place here. Will need to space and place the steps very carefully.





ONWARD!
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Old 11-21-2018, 09:13 PM   #3715
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Very happy to see they worked out for you Tango, some days are diamonds!
Bendy and no spendy helps too, great guys.



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Old 11-21-2018, 10:33 PM   #3716
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Tango, you must be thrilled with that result--and bendy no spendy only makes it better!

I'm recovering from a bendy AND spendy episode from a couple of weeks ago when I drove through an open manhole(at 40 mph) in Baker, Ca. I was able to repair and repaint the damaged front sheet metal over the last week only to discover that the jolt had damaged the rear wheel bearings and grease seal (what is that black goop by the rear wheel?). I'm into $125 in bearings and seals and $385 for new Isuzu rear brake shoes----along with 4 hours of shop time. I knew I should have bought a torque multiplier wrench, I could have done all the work myself if I could have removed the rear wheels. The wrenches range between $35 and $5000!?! Any ideas? Jack
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:38 PM   #3717
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I've used up all the complimentary words in my thesaurus.

But there are dozens of old ones in there that would work.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:49 PM   #3718
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Tango- those bends came out niiiiiiiiice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I knew I should have bought a torque multiplier wrench, I could have done all the work myself if I could have removed the rear wheels. The wrenches range between $35 and $5000!?! Any ideas? Jack
Jack- check Northern Tool (in stock at most stores) or even Home Depot (order on line pick up in store)
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Old 11-22-2018, 04:35 AM   #3719
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This is lookin great!! I never thought about a ladder but ya gotta get up to the roof somehow. I like how you followed the contour of the bus, I think it will be easier to use as well as look sharp when it’s done
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Old 11-22-2018, 06:35 AM   #3720
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Thanx All...

And Happy Thanksgiving to Skoolies Everywhere!!!


Hey Jack, don't know how things are in Baker, but in a number of towns the Meth Heads are stealing manhole covers for scrap (and crooked scrap dealers are taking them). Life on this planet just keeps getting weirder all the time.
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