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Old 08-05-2020, 10:15 PM   #21
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Year: 2002
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Ooooh hey ! Welcome aboard !! =)

Hey Jocelyn !

Just fell on this post. Thanks for sharing in such detail your adventure

Impressed by your determination to change o-rings right away ! I hope you get to fit those covers !!

Here is some resources that helped me, along all the skoolies folks have to share.

And again that link for high resolution engine wiring diagram right here https://www.skoolie.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23156&d=1528769914

Cheers !
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Old 08-08-2020, 10:47 PM   #22
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Thank you for those diagrams! Today before it started pouring I got the valve covers removed, rechecked that the injectors were seated as far down as I could, and put on the gasket maker, then screwed things back in. Tomorrow night I'll check and tighten all the bolts, then it'll be the moment of truth. We'll see if it starts!
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:27 PM   #23
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Finally finished pulling the injectors and replacing the orings and sealing it all back up.

Unfortunately the fuel filter I replaced isn't properly sealed or is leaking, or I knocked something loose when working on the injectors or both. The old fuel filter cap had some damage to it so I bought one of the new filters with it's own cap. I'm going to buy OEM filter and new OEM cap and try again. It's tempting to remove what's there and reuse it but I don't want to risk reusing orings if there's been any damage to them.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:09 AM   #24
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Pulled off the replacement fuel filter and cap (not OEM) and realized the gasket wasn’t even the right shape exactly when I compared it to the OEM filter I bought. The cap was also a little off (I bought a new OEM cap too). I had to use a oil filter wrench to tighten it and even being very careful I still chipped it a fair bit. Mystery solved in terms of how the cap the bus came with got so damaged. I had to disconnect the resonator box, which I hate, because it was literally impossible to get the new OEM cap to screw on with it in place, it just couldn’t move enough with it attached. I know some people delete them and they can crack, I’m not sure if the little gap along the seam is an issue.

I had to replace the battery with the secondary (I haven’t cut the rest of the old undermount box off yet) to start it. It recirculated fuel and cranked but I shut it off after a few cranks because of a new leak. I checked the fuel bowl with a flashlight and by touch, it’s dry. Then I realized it was in the rear right by the doghouse, which I guess is good news since it’s more accessible. I actually don’t know what this is, I’m about to start some googling. I also plugged in the OBDII unit that arrived and got a couple of error codes: p1280 and p1316. 1316 apparently means there are more specific codes to be pulled, going to see if I know anyone with the more sophisticated tool.

Going to disconnect and ohm the valve connectors to hopefully minimize have to fool around with the injectors. It’s be nice to figure out which one (or ones) are the problem.


Trying to figure out what this leak actually is and how the area is supposed to fit together. When I touched it to feel the liquid this clip type thing fell into my hand. I have no idea what it is.

Any advice for this clueless noob? Despite the frustration it is neat to learn more. This particular type of learning could give me a short break anytime though, I’d like to go back to the interior.

Update: My suspicion was the turbo and it looks like it's the EBPV. Will continue to research, looks like options are either rebuilding it or one of the delete kits.
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Old 08-24-2020, 01:26 PM   #25
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Wooow wait up friend !! ^^

That clip isnt that crucial to have your engine start ! Its a clip that keeps the bottom of the EBP butterfly valve opening your exhaust pipe when pressure accumulates from demanding higher power. Pushes the EBPV arm that opens the butterfly.

Shouldn't keep you from starting engine.

Now, p1316 meens that your connection between IDM and your injectors has a default on that line. Many ways to test it.

You can test your harness directly, which i dont prefer, personally. You can test from the 42 pin plug, which i prefer. And finally before, last case, testing the IDM itself. You can do the same ohm test from the IDM plug to your injectors&plugs.

These test can all avoid you spending useless time & money $$$

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Old 08-24-2020, 01:28 PM   #26
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Here are some resources
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Old 08-24-2020, 02:15 PM   #27
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I deleted my resonator box which freed up a little space in that crowded engine room. If memory serves, I used some PVC pipe and a PVC cap to fill the hole left by the resonator.



The pedestal will leak oil. The delete kits are meant for pickup engines and don't allow for the bracket that the turbocharger heat shield mounts to. You can remove the pedestal actuator and drill/tap for a pipe plug to seal the hole left when the actuator is removed.



If the new leak is fuel then look at the fuel line running from the fuel filter back to the passenger side cylinder head. There's a small rubber seal under the brass nut that can get old and crack. It's a very easy fix on a van.
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711 View Post
I deleted my resonator box which freed up a little space in that crowded engine room. If memory serves, I used some PVC pipe [...] There's a small rubber seal under the brass nut that can get old and crack. It's a very easy fix on a van.
Great things to know. Thanks !
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Old 08-24-2020, 07:04 PM   #29
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M@tt View Post
Wooow wait up friend !! ^^

That clip isnt that crucial to have your engine start ! Its a clip that keeps the bottom of the EBP butterfly valve opening your exhaust pipe when pressure accumulates from demanding higher power. Pushes the EBPV arm that opens the butterfly.

Shouldn't keep you from starting engine.

Now, p1316 meens that your connection between IDM and your injectors has a default on that line. Many ways to test it.

You can test your harness directly, which i dont prefer, personally. You can test from the 42 pin plug, which i prefer. And finally before, last case, testing the IDM itself. You can do the same ohm test from the IDM plug to your injectors&plugs.

These test can all avoid you spending useless time & money $$$

I could have let it crank but didn't because I noticed the leak and stopped it right away.

re: p1316, my plan is to do what you suggest and test the pin plug to try to figure out the issue. I ohmed the injectors when I had them out and they seemed fine, so I think it's probably the wiring.

thanks!
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Old 08-24-2020, 07:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711 View Post
I deleted my resonator box which freed up a little space in that crowded engine room. If memory serves, I used some PVC pipe and a PVC cap to fill the hole left by the resonator.



The pedestal will leak oil. The delete kits are meant for pickup engines and don't allow for the bracket that the turbocharger heat shield mounts to. You can remove the pedestal actuator and drill/tap for a pipe plug to seal the hole left when the actuator is removed.



If the new leak is fuel then look at the fuel line running from the fuel filter back to the passenger side cylinder head. There's a small rubber seal under the brass nut that can get old and crack. It's a very easy fix on a van.
thank you! I'm not 100% sure whether I want to delete it or not. I'm strongly leaning toward leaving it because I live in Alaska; I don't plan on traveling in the winter but being in this climate I'd rather leave anything helpful in cold weather intact.

When I pull it out I'm going to look at the fuel line. I'll probably order those rubber bits and replace them regardless. I think I already have the kit to reseal the turbo pedestal.
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Old 08-24-2020, 10:14 PM   #31
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I'd definitely delete that resonator box. Those splits are letting unfiltered air into the engine.
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:44 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711 View Post
I'd definitely delete that resonator box. Those splits are letting unfiltered air into the engine.
Yes, it's gotta go. I want to add some insulation to the doghouse cover anyway, which will hopefully cover up any additional noise.

I'm going to pull out the EBPV and turbo, clean them up (I actually bought a set of gaskets to reseal the turbo already since I saw it's a common area for leaks) and I may mod the EBPV later on with a switch but for now I just want to make sure it's clean, intact and working correctly.
Will also inspect the passenger fuel line and definitely replace the rubber sleeve under the nuts; even if it's not broken it's still 17 years old and likely nearing the end of it's life.

And also using the multimeter to try to figure out what the injector issue is. That's a good list for now, hopefully nothing else breaks!
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Old 08-25-2020, 11:23 PM   #33
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Sounds like a interesting after noon job. You gonna make it, easy peasy !
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