Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-23-2018, 08:05 AM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,485
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
awesome classic bus!! its a carpenter Cadet!!!

-Christopher
cadillackid is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2019, 01:50 AM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Winter wonderland

So months have passed, I've changed jobs and made some major life improvements and finally real action is happening with the bus.
Thank you to everyone else who has posted on this site! I want to pay it forward by sharing my build for those who need it.



Floor
________________
So it's currently awaiting final prepping for Ospho then paint. I finished scraping the floor last weekend. I had a $20 angle grinder from Harbor Freight, the motor of which I burned up within 30 minutes of starting (months ago). So I opted to just use a grout tool that I already had. I had to sharpen it often and the whole process took some elbow grease but it got the job done. There wasn't much rust. Many leaks have become obvious this rainy season.

At this point I'm planning to paint with rustoleum, then caulk up the holes in the floor (there are many holes used to secure the mechanics equpiment of the original owner.) I'll then use aluminum foil tape to cover the caulked up holes. I'll use closed cell 1 1/2 pink board covered with plywood.

I'm debating framing the floor at this point but leaning toward doing it for the air gap... winters get cold and my ceiling is taller than average @ 6ft top dead center.




Heat + Stove +Fridge
_______________________
Heat:
I purchased a Mobibra Sogra 3" portable Heater-Stove. It's supposed to be good for cottages, garages, tents etc. My bus is a total of 17" long and living space within 10ft×6ft so it should do the job. This thing also says it won't melt snow underneath it so thats appealing. Meanwhile the top 'can be used as a cooking stove.' They claim it will run on wood, charcoal, pellets, or RUF briquettes. RUF briquettes for those of you like me who didn't know, are finely ground up wood packed into a square brick super tightly. There weren't reviews to be found but it seems like an ideal option for me so I took the risk. It'll have a vent through the roof, don't worry. Them details aren't sorted yet.

I'm pondering the purchase of a disel air heater as backup and frankly because they seem ultra over the top effective, haha.

Stove:
I have to put in more research here. I've been thinking a disel oven would be neat since propane is so unappealing to me... however I've not found a small enough/affordable enough one yet. I won't use the oven often but I want the option. A countertop toater oven would work except I'm living on solar and not plugged in 98% of the time.
Hoping I don't have to go propane but whatever I have to do to make it work, ya know?

I'm also still leaning toward induction cook tops for my daily use. Haven't committed to any kitchen appliances yet except the


Fridge:
I wasn't about to skimp out on the fridge since I'll be full timing and not plugged in. I'm aiming toward getting a solar system set up- a note on this later- so it was a huge appeal having a super low energy draw with the 50Qt ARB fridge freezer. It arrives tomorrow ��


Lots more going on but here are my final remarks for this evening:

Leaks
_______________
I'm planning to seal the windows using automotive seam sealer on the window corners from the outside. Then I have 'weatherstrip and caulking cord' which is this firm but moldable spaghetti noodle shaped clay texture stuff to seal around the window frames outside. I'm opting not to remove the windows due to my low experience level and the amount of other work to get done.

I pruchased various sized weather stripping foam to try and resolve the enormous gaps around the doors. I'll update with photos later.

Planning to just buy a 200sqft spray foam kit to supplement alonside foam board.

Planning to get it tarped up and lay down that Ospho this weekend ☺
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2019, 01:56 AM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Carpenter Cadet CV far as I can tell!
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2019, 06:07 AM   #24
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,485
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
sweet!! are the RUF bricks similar to the ECO-bricks? I burn those in my home fireplace at times and they are fantastic.. they seem to burn evenly clean and hot.. my dad uses them in his home wood stove and has great luck with them. even when the stoved is dampered down to a low burn level, the fire doesnt go out and the bricks last are much more consistent than wood logs..



im guessing pellets give a similar result.. im guessing if you use it on pellets it has some sort of hopper and feed you can attach?
-Christopher
cadillackid is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2019, 03:28 PM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Looking good Orangetoes!

Where are you in Washington?
South Seattle!




@CadillacKid
The RUF bricks look exactly like those Eco-Blocks. I'm not sure about a pellet hopper attachment...

From the picture it seems like maybe it is equipped with something like that? Why is a hopper essential for pellets?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190104-132234_Amazon Shopping.jpg (78.5 KB, 11 views)
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2019, 06:57 PM   #26
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 13,485
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
with pellets people say with a hopper and automatic feeder the burn is easier to control.. as well I guess from what I understand you cant just stuff the stove full of pellets? this is only what I hear people say , i dont own a pellet stove.. everyone's house ive been to has a hopper.. I know partly thats so it can run for extended periods of time.. one guy has a 2 day hopper on his.. (during average winter weather).. his stove adjusts itself to the inside temperature to some extent..

-Christopher
cadillackid is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2019, 10:03 PM   #27
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Progress Spring 2019

The bus is fully running and only has a minor tune up on the carb left. We installed an inline fuel filter, exhaust system, replaced the thermostat and housing, successfully stopped window leaks (though we haven't done all of them yet), and I've begun work on the pull out slat bench/bed.
My partner has begun building LiFe batteries and is planning our solar/battery setup. Thankfully so, as the whole electrical aspect seemed quite daunting.

Windows Sealed
We removed the window frames and thoroughly cleaned them, removing all glue and previous seal remnants. Mineral spirits and a razor blade got the tough stuff off.
I picked up some window seal strips from home depot in varying sizes, I had a good idea of what I needed from the first window seal attempt, which failed. My issue the first time, I believe was not sealing a seam in the window frame itself. Also the second attempt, we switched from Automotive sealant to Loctite PL Premium.
The window went in snugly with the new plump seals, but eventually we whacked em's back into place and with enough shimmying the screws fit back in their holes too.
Eventually we will go around the windows with some window spray foam. And someday down the line we'll likely replace the window frames, but this will work for now.



Pull out bench
I don't have a real pattern to follow, so I'm sorting out the details as I go. So far I have the frame mostly constructed, though not entirely together. I opted to use the handsaw already in my inventory rather than buying an electric saw. It does the job.
Tomorrow I'm hoping to start the process of attaching a 'mounting frame' to the inside of the bus. I'm using a 2×6 that's 12 feet long, which is just about the entire length of the driver side. I'm going to line it all up, and then drill the first hole (likely somewhere near the middle of the board). I'll go through the board, the rib and to the exterior of the bus. Then I'll run a string through the hole to get the correct length of carriage bolt needed. Just a noob here.
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2019, 10:08 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Photos of the thermostat leak, window leak and seal/frame cleaning, and the pull out bench in progress.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190501_160049.jpg (410.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190501_194943.jpg (313.7 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190221_185809.jpg (109.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20190221_185816.jpg (73.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190324_125600.jpg (133.5 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20190221_185819.jpg (70.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20190119_150950.jpg (226.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20190119_124955.jpg (338.5 KB, 8 views)
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2019, 10:12 PM   #29
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Furnace

I recieved the furnace back in winter and had a blast trying it out. It certainly emits heat and the top will make an excellent cooktop if needed. We plan to have a backup electric or propane heater as well.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190208_175148.jpg (74.3 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 20190208_170907.jpg (182.5 KB, 23 views)
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2019, 11:01 PM   #30
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Good Lord, Tell me that won't heat up your full size Skoolie.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 12:13 AM   #31
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Good Lord, Tell me that won't heat up your full size Skoolie.

It's only 17 feet bumper to bumper. Inside space is about 13' x 6' x (6' at the center of the roof. )
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 12:23 AM   #32
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangetoes View Post
It's only 17 feet bumper to bumper. Inside space is about 13' x 6' x (6' at the center of the roof. )
Didn't mean yours in particular, but any 40'er would need windows open after 5 minutes if it glowed that hot.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 01:29 AM   #33
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,299
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Yeah, that looks way too hot. Looks dangerous.
Native is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 08:52 AM   #34
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
Yeah, that looks way too hot. Looks dangerous.
It doesn't get hot underneath and it has a sort of metal case that folds open around it which keeps the ultra hot metal from touching anything. The only danger is stupidity. Not like children will be living with me, Haha.
It does get glowing red but it took a while to heat up to that point. Someday it'll get a real test run in the bus. But with summer on the horizon, I figure that's a couple months out.
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 10:04 PM   #35
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,299
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
I'd probably be one of the stupid ones! It sure does look like it is extremely hot. I am sure it will heat up your bus in no time, even if you do not insulate.
Native is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 03:30 PM   #36
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Floor holes and rust

So a few months back I finished cleaning up the floor, Ospho'd and painted with rustoleum. I scraped out the old tar like seal and will reseal before the final paint layer.
Yesterday I got the driver seat out and found some moderate rust up in the footwell and back dashboard area. I'll take photos later today of that rust. Otherwise the floor was quite rust free and the paint job looks dandy. I used what I had on hand already, and since it'll all be covered, who cares about the odd look of it.

Is the driver footwell a common place to find rust? Does it inspire major concern in any of you more experience folk?

Planning to fill the many numerous holes in the floor with loctite PL and then tape over with aluminum tape. Then another layer of paint. Trying to sort out the full layout before insulation... I can't decide where to put the water tanks. Possibly going to rig them up against the ceiling in the rear. They'd be over the toilet and sink so only a minor inconvenience. We really need lots of easy access storage with two people in such a tight space.

For insulation on the floor I'm planning to lay down pink board and use a can of spray foam for the corners and edges. And then plywood. Sort of leaning toward no other flooring, and just using area rugs over the plywood. Though if it doesn't feel cozy enough I bet I'll add another layer of flooring.

I've got the pull out bench bed nearly complete. I'm trying to design a way to slide a chair back situation into it for temporary use as a driver seat when needed. The bench will extend from the original seats position back against the wheel well. I'll put in a seat belt attached to either the wall or the bench itself if I end up screwing the bench into the floor.... lots of decisions to make still.

Any and all thoughts welcomed!

First photo is the floor after ospho
The next 3 are prior to cleaning and the last 3 show the current state of the floor.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190119_124940.jpg (394.8 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20180720_183327.jpg (466.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20180716_145227.jpg (240.7 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20180716_145158.jpg (270.4 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20190119_142817.jpg (218.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20190119_142823.jpg (249.9 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20190119_142916.jpg (287.5 KB, 12 views)
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 05:20 PM   #37
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Mystery tools

Just curious what these tools are for. Does anyone know? Leather maybe? Found them in my late grandpa's workshop.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190509_141120.jpg (153.2 KB, 13 views)
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 05:23 PM   #38
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangetoes View Post
Just curious what these tools are for. Does anyone know? Leather maybe? Found them in my late grandpa's workshop.
They are punches, not necessarliy for leather work. Pointed ones are Center punches, flat tipped are drift punches. Pointy ones hit with a hammer into metal for marking a pilot for a drill so it won't "walk". Drift for punch pins and such. 100's of uses for them.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 07:20 PM   #39
Mini-Skoolie
 
Orangetoes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 29
Year: 1973
Engine: 350 Block
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
They are punches, not necessarliy for leather work. Pointed ones are Center punches, flat tipped are drift punches. Pointy ones hit with a hammer into metal for marking a pilot for a drill so it won't "walk". Drift for punch pins and such. 100's of uses for them.


Oooo that could definitely be helpful. Thanks so much!
Orangetoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2019, 07:29 PM   #40
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangetoes View Post
Oooo that could definitely be helpful. Thanks so much!

Looks like 2 nail sets also, good find, use my centre punches everyday for metal work. Keeps the holes where they are supposed to be, drill doesn't run off.



John
__________________
Question everything!
BlackJohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1973, first bus, gmc, inexperienced, newbie

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×