bed solutions

[ptge57]

I want to use pullies to lift my bed up to the ceiling of the bus for storage during the day. I'm only 4'10", older woman. so I can still walk under it! I thought I could rivet attachments for the pullies into the "ribs" that run across the ceiling behind the sheet metal? It only needs to support about 50 lbs of mattress, plywood, 2x3's. Does anyone know if these ribs are located behind the rivet lines where each ceiling panel connects to the next one? Any input is appreciated on if this is a good idea or am I totally on the wrong track?

[o1marc]

Yes, all the ceiling rivets attach to ribs.

[ptge57]

Thanks for your help!

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Most factory rivet lines regardless of usually hit centerline of the ribs unless your ribs are doubled up.
On mine I have two 1" ribs back to back which gave me another inch opposite of the rivets.
A steel ceiling could meen you can build what you want where you want using the proper screws?
If you tell us what bus body you are working with then you will get better ideas/thoughts?
I can only guess at what you have and relate my ideas from what I have.

[ptge57]

Its a 2005 8 seat Midbus, GMC chassis. Is that enough information? I haven't figured out how to insert a picture or I would include it! Also, am having difficulty with using Teks brand self tapping screws. Anyone having more success with something else?

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by ptge57

Its a 2005 8 seat Midbus, GMC chassis. Is that enough information? I haven't figured out how to insert a picture or I would include it! Also, am having difficulty with using Teks brand self tapping screws. Anyone having more success with something else?

I've been pre-drilling my holes after having issues with some self tappers

[Iceni John]

I would not trust self-tapping screws for anything more than a few pounds of load. I need to attach two steel angles to the ceiling for my kitchen's overhead cabinets, and because Crown used such hard steel that no self-tapping screw will cut a good thread into the roof ribs, and because the ribs are too thin for a machine thread, I instead bought a dozen Plus Nuts for the cabinets. They are like a Jack Nut on steroids, but much stronger than any Jack Nut (those have very weak threads and too-easily-deformable legs), and they will be more than sufficient to hold up my cabinets. They're not cheap, but peace of mind usually isn't. I also considered using Rivnuts, but again I doubt their ability to withstand high tensile loads, especially when I plan on dynamic loads of three times the static load for a moving vehicle.

John

[ptge57]

Have decided to attach 14 ga. angle iron with rivets to two of the ribs that are close to 30" apart. That way the load will be spread over a wider area.