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Old 04-26-2017, 10:59 PM   #61
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As I understand it, the Great Stuff needs to be able to cool off to get solid. Otherwise it droops like slime and hardens. As long as it's touching at least one metal surface, so it can cool down, it seems to work.
I've filled everything I could fill with canned foam, even inside the ribs. I haven't cut a rib open to check but it seems to have worked fine. And as a bonus, this baby should float.

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Old 04-27-2017, 05:28 AM   #62
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As I understand it, the Great Stuff needs to be able to cool off to get solid. Otherwise it droops like slime and hardens. As long as it's touching at least one metal surface, so it can cool down, it seems to work.
I've filled everything I could fill with canned foam, even inside the ribs. I haven't cut a rib open to check but it seems to have worked fine. And as a bonus, this baby should float.
Dude be real careful with Great Stuff. It can be corrosive to metals and doesn't cure in closed areas.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:58 AM   #63
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I've already made that mistake months ago, so there's always hope for my second bus.
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:31 AM   #64
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Dude be real careful with Great Stuff. It can be corrosive to metals and doesn't cure in closed areas.
I've always heard that its not the great stuff itself that is corrosive to metal, just that you can easily trap moisture behind it and that will cause corrosion. But couldn't that same problem happen with legit spray foam if the surface wasn't prepared correctly when sprayed?
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:38 AM   #65
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Great Stuff is indeed corrosive to bare metal. Also...never try to inject it into a closed space. It will never cure except for a thin layer around the edges.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:30 AM   #66
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I've always heard that its not the great stuff itself that is corrosive to metal, just that you can easily trap moisture behind it and that will cause corrosion. But couldn't that same problem happen with legit spray foam if the surface wasn't prepared correctly when sprayed?
No tis the chemicals in Great Stuff. They don't cure properly in any kind of enclosed space, and they react with the metal.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:09 PM   #67
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Ok, you made me curious about the foam in my ribs. I checked five rivet holes on ribs throughout the bus and all had properly cured foam in them except for one. I can't say if that's a consistent rate of failure or not, but I don't think it's worth worrying about.

Perhaps it will corrode the metal at some point. If that's true about the chemicals in Great Stuff it would seem that any contact between the foam chemicals and metal skin and ribs, not in enclosed areas, would also eventually have a corrosive reaction because of the chemicals and contact with steel surfaces.

So far the foam inside the ribs stopped the leaking problem, which is why I considered the foam solution in the first place, based on my memory of someone else previously doing the same thing. All I can say is it worked, otherwise I'd need a gutter system mounted on my chair rail.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:40 PM   #68
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No use worrying about it now. We all make mistakes and move on. Good for anyone out there reading along to know for the future, though.

Funny you mention the gutter system. The chair rail IS sort of a gutter from the factory. The condensation that doesn't get trapped in the fiberglass batting runs down the walls and drains down through the bottom of the chair rail. On my bus that's how it is, anyhow.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:42 PM   #69
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Interesting. It should be fine on primed metal that isnt covered until after it cures though, correct? That was my plan.
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:06 PM   #70
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It became very obvious that my side panels need to drain about the time the heavy fall rains started. No I'm not going to worry about it. I'm pretty sure this bus will outlast me.
That's the thing about being offline for ten months last year while I was working on this bus. I had no way to ask questions, and my memory aint that great. On the bright side I got more work done because I wasn't messing around with the internet.
I don't mean to be crass, but I'd do it again to stop the leaking.
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Old 07-08-2017, 06:48 PM   #71
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Well finally getting back at it after a couple months out of the country for work. To follow up on the conversation...

1. I used Hytech seam sealer and patch tape to seal the seams first, then Hytech Buskote paint. I plan to do another coat of paint, then clear coat pretty soon here.

2. I did use Great Stuff to fill the gaps gaps, but I didn't spray any inside of the ribs or any closed spaces as per advice seen in the forum. I don't believe any of it is in contact with any uncoated metal either, maybe a little here and there.
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:24 PM   #72
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A little progress, these photos bring the build up to date.

Framed out and paneled the rear wall. I made a cardboard template for the ceiling contour, first by using the original sheet metal as base a template, then scribing. It's still far from perfect though...







The rear compartment leaves just enough space to store water tanks, pump, batteries (will be vented), inverter, etc.





Also made a simple wire chase to hide some cables, and possibly house an LED light strip depending on what I end up doing for cabinets.



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Old 07-08-2017, 08:07 PM   #73
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this bus is looking great inside!. love the idea of the back wall. and storage area behind
-Christopher
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:31 PM   #74
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Created a frame for the skylight this week. Not perfect, but I'm happy with it. Tried to match the style and color of the exhaust fan, I think they look pretty good together.


Before.


Wood frame I made, matching the ceiling contour.


Test fit.


Skylight and fan.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:32 PM   #75
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sure looks like it came out great!
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:20 PM   #76
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Been staring at this area over the doorway every time I walk in and out of the bus for the past few days... Any suggestions or photos to share? I have a few ideas, but I'm not in love with any of them. Not a lot of places attach more planks, and some interesting angles/contours to deal with as well.



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Old 07-18-2017, 08:38 AM   #77
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Good place for an upholstered head-banger pad.
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Old 07-23-2017, 07:45 PM   #78
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I've been spending a lot of time with the tedious details this last week. Trimming out all the windows, tying up some things I've been putting off, and finally framed, insulated and covered the front area.


Windows trimmed out.


Before.


Framed and insulated. Attached 1x3's to the steel frame with metal self taping screws. The center/uninsulated area will be a storage area and access area for the lights and wiring.


How things are looking as of today. Will be cutting the storage area / access panel back out later.


Coming along!
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Old 07-23-2017, 08:26 PM   #79
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Thanks !!!!

one day I'll build one just like yours.
please, keep the images coming and big thanks
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:36 PM   #80
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Some updates from the last few evenings and today.


Fitting and re-painting the storage box that covered the electrical above the drivers seat


Cut out storage / access area, won't be re-using the original door for this one since it was broken anyways


Cut out the bathroom built in shelves


Finally decided how I wanted to tackle covering this area over the entry door. Still a lot of weird angles and contours, but squaring out the busy body taper made things a bit easier.


Finished, will probably put a small access door in the end since there is a decent amount or storage space after boxing in the angled area. Plenty of head clearance too
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