Thank you SO much for posting this! I thought I was the only crazy person who wanted to do an epoxy counter... I was thinking live edge slab epoxy river flowing into my sink personally, but I NEVER see any builds with an epoxy counter, so I was starting to think I was just dreaming.
Awsome glad you like it, epoxy counters are defunetly hard to do. Your idea sounds great let me know if you give it a go,
What is your thoughts & opinions on this in the front entrance & up the side panels.? Im worried about it crumbling to fast fronm the movement of the vehicle. (grout&stone.) I been putting it off for some time cause i didnt know what i wanted, if this will work & be ok in the long one ill get started, $15 a sheet plus grout i didnt want to just do it & pray for the best, what do you all think yes/no.? Thanks
I've always heard that the grout/tile would tend to crack and break over time from the rattles/bumps on the road - but there are people on here who have built some mighty fine fireplace hearths and other things that you do NOT want to crack, so. ..
I think I'd avoid it for two other reasons. How slippery is it when it gets wet? There are stairs involved. Also, how do you seal the grout? While those round stones are cool, there looks like there's a lot of grout showing. While the tile would be easy enough to wipe down, would the grout eventually be a problem?
What is your thoughts & opinions on this in the front entrance & up the side panels.? Im worried about it crumbling to fast fronm the movement of the vehicle. (grout&stone.)
I'd worry about the grout cracking also.
What about this.....break out the epoxy again. Maybe buy those tiny mosaic tiles, lay some kind of backer on the floor, lay the tiles in place, and epoxy over them? How would that epoxy handle foot traffic?
I've always heard that the grout/tile would tend to crack and break over time from the rattles/bumps on the road - but there are people on here who have built some mighty fine fireplace hearths and other things that you do NOT want to crack, so. ..
I think I'd avoid it for two other reasons. How slippery is it when it gets wet? There are stairs involved. Also, how do you seal the grout? While those round stones are cool, there looks like there's a lot of grout showing. While the tile would be easy enough to wipe down, would the grout eventually be a problem?
Wet & slippery is not of any worry to me, their is grout sealer i can add a top layer to protect it, i have seen one tile fire place base but he built it way up off the ground wwde i didnt think bumbs & rattle were of issue, i was hoping someone on here with tile & grout expertise might give me the yay or nay i need to move foward thanks for the reply.
What about this.....break out the epoxy again. Maybe buy those tiny mosaic tiles, lay some kind of backer on the floor, lay the tiles in place, and epoxy over them? How would that epoxy handle foot traffic?
Its been months since my first epoxy top & it is holding up very nicly but unfortenetly it does get scratches a little easy, just from my plastic clothing bins that i been setting on top to get clothes out everyday for a couple months did a bit scrathing, so i would never consider it for heavy foot traffic.
I guess i need more time to think.
What is your thoughts & opinions on this in the front entrance & up the side panels.? Im worried about it crumbling to fast fronm the movement of the vehicle. (grout&stone.) I been putting it off for some time cause i didnt know what i wanted, if this will work & be ok in the long one ill get started, $15 a sheet plus grout i didnt want to just do it & pray for the best, what do you all think yes/no.? Thanks
Return those tiles. Tile and grout is heavy and will Crack over time from the vibration and flexing.
They make vinyl stick on tile squares that look like tile, but won't crack because they are flexible.
I've seen them at RV stores like Camping World and online Amazon. They stick on, no grout, no mess. Make sure the surface is clean, smooth, and dry.
Thanks, i didnt buy them yet i wanted to consult with the pros on here before, two nay's & one yay. If they have flex grout than i dont see why it would not work, with a good base, i think ima just go for it. I have been told alot of times what i will do wont work, i like the peeel & stick idea but i always like the feeling of stone/tile & grount under my feet i guess im just wierd. The debate in my head is giving me a headache.
Hey everyone, i was hoping if someoneone can tell me if their is a thread on how to properly redue these rear windows seals? I tried searching the threads but ended up just reading for hours on everything else but what i needed on here. Like what type of sealant.? Bus experts.?thanks
That looks so much better than all black. Very nice. I don't know about resealing those using the same gasket but I'm putting my RV windows in using butyl tape. That's really strong stuff. You probably want some kind of silicone in a tube. That new Flex seal I'm sure would work.
That looks so much better than all black. Very nice. I don't know about resealing those using the same gasket but I'm putting my RV windows in using butyl tape. That's really strong stuff. You probably want some kind of silicone in a tube. That new Flex seal I'm sure would work.
Thanks thomas everyone, i know keeps telling me that aswell, i had alittle bit of an identity issue but soon as i put those fiberglass flared fenders on, i came out of my stupid coma, i have some butyl tape but not sure if it would be good or not, i have all 3 actually.lol
For the newbs: I had to drive threw a colorado/utah snow storm to find this leak, (dont forget to seal up EVERYTHING).... you can see the light right abouve the spray foam.
Hey everyone, i was hoping if someoneone can tell me if their is a thread on how to properly redue these rear windows seals? I tried searching the threads but ended up just reading for hours on everything else but what i needed on here. Like what type of sealant.? Bus experts.?thanks
I doubt you'll be able to re-use those window seals, unless they are still soft and pliable. Most automotive seals go in by pulling the inner lip of the seal over the edge of the window opening. Usually some dish soap and a piece of 550 para-cord is all you need. Helps if you have someone on the outside to help hold the window in place. Put the rubber seal around the glass (lube with dish soap). Put the 550 cord into the locking groove on the rubber seal, with the tails hanging on the inside. Have a helper hold the window in place from the outside. Pull the 550 cord over the lip and it will pull the rubber seal into place. Work the 550 cord until the whole rubber seal is over the edge.
The rope trick is hard to explain, but a piece of cake to do once you've done it once. I was looking at the back windows on my bus today and see they have a double gasket that the rope trick needs done inside and outside if I were replacing them.