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Old 01-07-2021, 10:08 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
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Bus cleared out of everything getting ready for paint.

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Old 01-07-2021, 10:09 PM   #22
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Sorry here is the pic
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Old 01-09-2021, 02:31 PM   #23
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Planed the ugly finish off the peruvian teak after taking the bus on a nice cruise.
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Old 01-09-2021, 02:32 PM   #24
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Pics are here
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Old 01-10-2021, 07:42 PM   #25
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Looks like the floor pan has to go

Looks like I have to rip up or at least patch the floor pan
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Old 01-10-2021, 10:18 PM   #26
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The extent of the damage

Seeing as the sheet metal isnt at all structural I think i can rivet galvanised sheet over this with a bunch of rust reformer and sealer and just lay marine ply on top. Any advice would be great...
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:56 AM   #27
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As you are likely aware, the extent you go to in repairing the rust might depend on a few things. First and foremost: cost. Then might come how long you plan on owning it, and it's eventual resale value.

The best and longest lasting repair that would ensure good resale value would be to cut out the rusted areas and weld in new metal, then seam seal the edges, undercoat the underside, top coat in a good primer and epoxy paint the entire floor.
Not the cheap easy repair but if you plan on keeping the bus more than just a couple of years, the best.

There are a myriad of other ways to tackle this rust, between my suggestion and what your plan might be.

If your plan is to get it fixed quickly, and don't care about the rust returning bigger in a few years then your method would work.

Good luck whatever route you choose...
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Old 01-11-2021, 11:17 AM   #28
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Your suggestion is basically my plan except the welding because this is paper thin galvanized steel that I can’t weld. I will have to cut the rust out and pop rivet patches in or replace the sheet metal all together. This is like 22 gauge galvanized steel Designed to keep moisture off the plywood which is the actual structural bit. This sheet metal isn't even fastened to the bust except with the screws that hold the plywood which it is glued to I would kind of like to rip it out everything and spot weld in thicker floor. I have time, I’m unemployed so this is my focus.
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Old 01-11-2021, 03:05 PM   #29
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I won't say I did mine the "right" way... But I'll let you know what I did. My floor looked like yours. So I removed all of the sheet metal. I'm a welder by trade/ now turned manufacturing engineer. I had a hard time not welding my floor in at first, but after research I did this:

Cut all sheet metal out. Used por15 to correct rust on top of frame etc. Bought new sheet metal I want to say 18 ga (but if you search my thread I state thicknesses in there) I glued the sheet metal down with adhesive, seam sealed all edges over laps etc, painted, then added insulation then added 3/4" plywood... screwed down through frame rails with a trailer decking type of screw.

Again, I'm not saying I did it right, but if I did something wrong, learn from my mistakes! Good luck!
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:07 PM   #30
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My e450 shuttle bus has no metal flooring at all. I think it is used to add strength to keep a bus of full of kids safer. You would not want it rusting which adds volume and 'puffs' up your flooring, so I'd just cut it all away and put in plywood subfloor like the shuttle bus.
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:34 PM   #31
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Here is one patch

I will seam seal and undercoat.I like rust reformer, i have used it on a Variety of projects so i’m spraying that to kill what little rust I miss. I am a poor welder but there will be carriage bolts involved in the floor.
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Old 01-11-2021, 11:05 PM   #32
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Another day down

Got most of the patching taken care of, ordered 2 sheets of 5/8 marine ply for pickup at homeless despot tommorow.
That rust reformer reeaally stinks; oh man in an enclosed space you get hit with it even through the respirator. Gonna probably do cheap latex paint on the bottom of the ply. Have to still seal the seams along the side and seal and rivet the center will also rivet the sheet metal to the box frame then poly schmoo the rest of the screw holes. Then when I get back to the shop if it’s slow myself and my mechanic will rust reform and undercoat the entire bottom. It took 25 years to get this bad, in another 25 years if There will be hybrid electric nuclear flying skoolies for me to renovate.
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Old 01-12-2021, 08:05 PM   #33
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Day 3 of the floor

Riveted and sealed the center sealed the seams and ground out and replaced the rot under the back door
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Old 01-12-2021, 09:47 PM   #34
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I feel like my life is like a handyman corner segment on the red green show....
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:51 PM   #35
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Okay, every last hole is patched, marine ply is in, glued and screwed with big self drillers and liquid nails extreme, foamed around the edges dumped my cooling system deleting the rear heater. Kinda ricky bobby’d the bypass but it is solid. Going to delete the pipes going back when I get more time.
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Old 01-17-2021, 08:44 AM   #36
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You are making good progress in quick fashion!! Keep up the momentum!!!
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:52 PM   #37
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Buddy runs a MAACO franchise, $3300.00 for a bunch of rust repair and a 2 stage paint job. This is the last time you will see my bus yellow.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:56 PM   #38
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New paint code will be HGD
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Old 01-20-2021, 06:24 PM   #39
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Sanding

Sanding being done
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Old 01-20-2021, 06:30 PM   #40
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Total cost at this point is $9,855.70 and climbing rapidly
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