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05-01-2017, 04:40 PM
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#221
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 142
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Fisher Body
Chassis: GM "B" Platform
Engine: 350 TBI Chevrolet
Rated Cap: 8
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Foam baffles would help a lot, rubber isolation mounts if needed.
__________________
Closest I have to a Bus would be my '92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon 1 of 4,347 built.
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05-01-2017, 04:58 PM
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#222
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,326
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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part of what a speaker does is vibrate stuff.. I know that backfilling in my Jeep soundbar helped with that which was just a plastic enclosure bar.. i used poly-fill in that and it richened up the sound and helped to eliminate the resonance and tinniness ofit..
the dashboards of school busses arent built very well for speaker mounting..
ECCB's idea of mounting stuff near the floor sounds great for Subs, but im not sure the mids and highs are going to sound very good near the floor..
for my bus the nmore I think, im simply going to hang 2 6x9 enclose boxes in the front corners probably angle type boxes.. and then replace the existing ceiling speakers with something better like 5 1/4's or something and poly-fill up in there..
for me i mainly want the driver seat to have the best sound 
-Christopher
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05-01-2017, 06:05 PM
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#223
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
part of what a speaker does is vibrate stuff.. I know that backfilling in my Jeep soundbar helped with that which was just a plastic enclosure bar.. i used poly-fill in that and it richened up the sound and helped to eliminate the resonance and tinniness ofit..
the dashboards of school busses arent built very well for speaker mounting..
ECCB's idea of mounting stuff near the floor sounds great for Subs, but im not sure the mids and highs are going to sound very good near the floor..
for my bus the nmore I think, im simply going to hang 2 6x9 enclose boxes in the front corners probably angle type boxes.. and then replace the existing ceiling speakers with something better like 5 1/4's or something and poly-fill up in there..
for me i mainly want the driver seat to have the best sound 
-Christopher
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HIGH end car stereo's use kick panels for the highs.... I've had a couple HIGH dollar car stereos.
Boxes for all of them, I'll have enough power and enough speakers that placement won't matter a whole lot.
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05-01-2017, 06:31 PM
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#224
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,326
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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tell me more as im in the design (sort-of) phase for the stereo.. someone gave me a double DIN JVC stereo with bluetooth and aux and all.. and an amp and a 10" sub box to get started. but I need to figure out the rest of it..
I never knew the highs came out of the kick panels thats interesting... but come to think of it all of my cars with better stereos have speakers in the doors or kick panels or both..
-Christopher
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05-01-2017, 06:38 PM
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#225
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
tell me more as im in the design (sort-of) phase for the stereo.. someone gave me a double DIN JVC stereo with bluetooth and aux and all.. and an amp and a 10" sub box to get started. but I need to figure out the rest of it..
I never knew the highs came out of the kick panels thats interesting... but come to think of it all of my cars with better stereos have speakers in the doors or kick panels or both..
-Christopher
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For proper sound you want the sound to be "in front of you". So you put your highs in front and angle them so that they are both aimed at the driver's ears. You want to have them as close to the same distance from your ears as possible.
The sub doesn't matter much in its placement, as someone mentioned earlier bass is non-directional so it doesn't matter much. I'm gonna mount my 12" kicker sub under one of the seats mid-ship.
A couple rear speakers midship as well, for highs and lows for the rear passengers.
But the best car setup I had was a REALLY nice set of component speakers up front with a good amp pushing them at 100 rms and a 15" that could go DEEP and ran that with a ton of power. Simple system and sounded AMAZING.
But these are buses, so audiophile quality sound isn't as important.
Small boxes for mounting the speakers gives more flexibility of mounting, though and you can fine tune the sound before screwing them down to wherever you put them.
I wanna use the factory speaker locations in my bus for some cheapo speakers only to be used for the PA.
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05-01-2017, 06:45 PM
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#226
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Did some additional work up top with the seam sealant today, and got rid of the rear door buzzer switch, box, and buzzer.
Two buzzers down now!
We got a little rain this afternoon, which I knew was coming, and tomorrow its gonna POUR.
So thurs or fri after work I'll go clean the roof up real well, sand it a bit in some spots, and probably slap a coat of white up there.
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05-01-2017, 08:28 PM
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#227
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,326
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Did some additional work up top with the seam sealant today, and got rid of the rear door buzzer switch, box, and buzzer.
Two buzzers down now!
We got a little rain this afternoon, which I knew was coming, and tomorrow its gonna POUR.
So thurs or fri after work I'll go clean the roof up real well, sand it a bit in some spots, and probably slap a coat of white up there.
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sounds like you'll know right away if the new hatch cover leaks or not!
-Christopher
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05-01-2017, 08:51 PM
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#228
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
sounds like you'll know right away if the new hatch cover leaks or not!
-Christopher
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I'm not even considering it possible for that repair to EVER leak! Man, I'm real proud of how awesome it turned out. SO SOLID!!!

I really like the 550 seam sealant. The stuff is so easy to work with!
It rained this afternoon, so I didn't get started on removing the rear factory powered vent, but I'll slap the new cover over that later this week. Then I'll reseal all the seams on the entire top side of the bus.
Then I'll paint it all flat white and it should be good for many years.
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05-01-2017, 09:03 PM
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#229
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,326
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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that cover sure looked good.. it layed down damn near perfectly flat on there!! your metal working skills show on these bus builds!
-Christopher
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05-02-2017, 10:48 AM
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#230
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
that cover sure looked good.. it layed down damn near perfectly flat on there!! your metal working skills show on these bus builds!
-Christopher
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Thanks, man. I'm not a REAL fabricator, I just happened to work at a steel shop for over a decade. Never messed with rivets before but I LOVE them now!
I think the rain is already done. Not as much as we were hoping for.
no sign of any leakage at all, but no surprise there!
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05-02-2017, 11:11 AM
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#231
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Next up on the repair list-
This is the major culprit in our not painting it yet.
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05-02-2017, 11:20 AM
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#232
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,326
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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seems to be a common spot for busses to rust.. wonder if water gets in around the lights and runs down to the bottom and sits..
you gonna metal patch it in and bondo?
-Christopher
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05-02-2017, 11:28 AM
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#233
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
seems to be a common spot for busses to rust.. wonder if water gets in around the lights and runs down to the bottom and sits..
you gonna metal patch it in and bondo?
-Christopher
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Yeah, the plan is to cut out the area, asses the damage from there, and probably patch in a piece of steel, smooth it, and then prime it for paint.
I *may* try riveting on a panel on both sides, so the repair would match, and going with custom tail lights etc.
The rust is DEFINITELY caused by the lights right above it leaving ridiculously. The design of the seal is piss-poor, and they're old and never got any attention.
The only other rust is under the WC lift side door.
The white residue is from me spraying ospho on it for the hell of it.
I'd almost rather shop around for a minty door at a junkyard or something than try and fix that weird lip that hold the rubber. IDK, maybe I'm just feeling lazy. I'm sure I'll try and figure out some way of repairing it.
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05-06-2017, 07:46 AM
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#234
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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05-06-2017, 11:01 AM
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#235
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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It's always good to see those FL safety shoes.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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05-06-2017, 11:01 AM
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#236
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 647
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
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I bet you could patch the rear corner with aftermarket aluminum tread plate corners.
Made for Jeeps.
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05-06-2017, 11:24 AM
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#237
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
It's always good to see those FL safety shoes.
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I love em. I'm probably on my 20th pair since I started wearing birkenstock in 1993.
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05-06-2017, 11:59 AM
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#238
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Same here during the summer. I'd loose some toes during the winters.
Since moving out of the valley I've had to start wearing long pants and actual shoes.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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05-06-2017, 12:04 PM
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#239
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Lol if you look closely you'll see my missing toe nail.
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05-08-2017, 03:25 PM
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#240
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,714
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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