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Old 05-26-2023, 05:55 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
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Finally Getting started

So two years ago My wife and I purchased a Thomas Saf t liner c2 with the intent of getting the project started. I was able to pull out all of the seats within the first two months but then life got busy.
Over the last weekend we were able to finally get the floor up and almost prepped to "prep". the floors were definitely daunting but now that they are all up and it is down to bare metal it feels like we can move forward with actually building. we are pulling the ceiling down and though of pulling the walls but after watching a few videos it looks like a process and I am not sure that I would want to do this especially since it would require removing the seat rails. which I have read are structural support. does anyone have any insight?
I will upload some photos soon.

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Old 05-26-2023, 06:36 PM   #2
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Year: 1965
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Smile Re: Finally Getting Started

I know how it goes. I've had Pit Stop for YEARS now and I'm only getting down to REALLY working on her this year. She's been a storage shed for too long
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Old 05-26-2023, 06:40 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
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people don't remove the seat rails just the upper part of the lower walls from the seat rail to the windows
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Old 05-26-2023, 09:08 PM   #4
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and not everybody removes that sheet metal. (between the windows and seat rails)
depends on circumstances related to your specific build.
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Old 05-27-2023, 10:57 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Ya I think we are going to leave the sheet metal and build up on top of it. It seems easier and the space gain would be zero if we leave the rails
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Old 05-28-2023, 11:52 AM   #6
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TDi-337--- what do you plan to do with your bus? Stationary use, travel?
If you plan to drive your bus, I think I'd make sure it runs, and drives now. Sitting for 2 years can create a lot of mechanical problems. Some would be more head ache inducing, others could be quite hard on your wallet.
Not much point in spending time and money on the build until you address this.
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Old 05-28-2023, 01:09 PM   #7
Skoolie
 
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Location: Middle TN
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Year: 2008
Chassis: IC RE (PB30500)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdi-337 View Post
Ya I think we are going to leave the sheet metal and build up on top of it. It seems easier and the space gain would be zero if we leave the rails
Just throwing this out there in case it might help your decision.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ars-64609.html

For metal cutting shears they are pretty cheap and would make the job simpler. Unscrew all the metal panels under the window (hopefully yours are screws). Then use the shears to cut the metal an inch or two below the window all the way down the bus. That way you remove a majority of the metal without messing with anything structural.
You're right about it not giving any floor space. But putting insulation on the outer skin and removing the inner skin will help a lot with heat transfer to keep the inside more comfortable.

It's what I'm doing to my bus right now.
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Old 05-30-2023, 11:26 PM   #8
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i agree with BYC.
i got mine running first.
then kept driving it during the conversion.
it took months & $6k to get all the mechanical bugs out.
it is now safe & dependable.
hopefully do some body paint this season?
enjoy the build
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Old 05-31-2023, 08:07 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp View Post
TDi-337--- what do you plan to do with your bus? Stationary use, travel?
If you plan to drive your bus, I think I'd make sure it runs, and drives now. Sitting for 2 years can create a lot of mechanical problems. Some would be more head ache inducing, others could be quite hard on your wallet.
Not much point in spending time and money on the build until you address this.
Yes she runs strong, I replaced the batteries over the winter I need to replace the tires before we can do any real driving but I have moved it all over the yard and we have been around the block a few times. Nothing to indicate any serious issues ( knock on wood)
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Old 06-01-2023, 11:09 AM   #10
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sweet!
glad to here it runs!
keep a battery tender on it occasionally.
keep it moving.
i used to drive mine to home depot for supplies while converting at least once a week ( 30 miles round trip ).
killed three birds with one stone that way.
mechanical, electrical & interior bugs.
my wife would figure out all the rattles while i was driving LOL
make sure you have roadside assistance.
or a way to get it home.
better to find out now then out of town.
enjoy the build!
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Old 06-01-2023, 05:10 PM   #11
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THE FIRST thing to do is sit down and think out THE MISSION you wish to accomplish with your bus.
Is it a weekend warrior? Weekends and occasional longer (how long) trips? Full time live aboard and travel? Prefer warm and dry, the humid south, winter wonderland adventures, RV hookups or boondocking, or?
What your mission is determines all manner of things for your build.
How much insulation you need, how much electrical power, propane, comfort appliances, etc., are all dependent upon your intended mission.
A weekend warrior, particularly one you plan to use RV parks exclusively, will have much lower requirements than something you plan to live in full time or want to boondock with.
Those lower wall panels are not all that difficult to remove, even if they're riveted, and getting the old insulation out of the walls is a good move, especially if you then spray foam it. Spray foam will seal, bond things together (fewer rattles and drumming), and give superior insulation.


As for the earlier recomendation for the Harbor Freight metal shears... I bought a set and they're great for cutting the 16ga metal we're using to blank out windows, hatches, vents, etc.
I also have 3 or 4 Harbor Freight angle grinders (the ones that go on sale for $9.99 all the time). That keeps me from having to change from sanding disk to metal cutting blade to grinder.
Their aim chisel/hammer is also used a lot. I bought a set of round headed bits for it that have helped with hammering out a few dents and the chisel is great for cutting rivet heads off.

Their air riveter is also in my inventory along with a small bench grinder and a supply of their grinding wheels and sanding flap disks for the angle grinders.


Check YouTube and you'll find a myriad of videos on demo of the interior. We have a set of time lapse videos on you youtube channel (same name as here) showing removal of the ceiling and side walls (ours were screws). Check our ours or someone else's before you decide to leave your lower walls and build over them.
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