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07-15-2019, 07:42 PM
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#81
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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This last week has been highly productive! We removed and resealed all the windows. We replaced the overly-compressed rubber gasket around each window with new gaskets, and lots of seam sealer. All but one of the windows doesn't leak, and the one that leaks is an issue with the glass to aluminum seal, so I'll have to figure that out now.
We also cleaned up any small rust patches along the roof and gutter, cleaned the top, sanded, cleaned again, and finished with an Acetone bath. Then, we got three coats of Black Jack on the roof. The picture is after the first coat. After three, you can't see any of the original color anymore. I wish I had time for a fourth now, but there's rain in the forecast tomorrow evening, so this is it for me for now!
All-in-all, a very productive week. The next few weeks do not look like they will be so productive, though... too much life that needs to happen. The bus takes a back seat.
Chris
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07-15-2019, 10:07 PM
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#82
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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I've already pulled one window out of mine and planned to pull the rest in the near future. If they are anything you can use, I won't need them. Let me know if interested. I can take measurements and pictures.
__________________
2007 Collins (Chevy Express 3500)
LMM Duramax Diesel with newly rebuilt 4L85E Transmission!
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07-16-2019, 04:44 AM
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#83
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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*raises hand*
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
I've already pulled one window out of mine and planned to pull the rest in the near future. If they are anything you can use, I won't need them. Let me know if interested. I can take measurements and pictures.
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It's starting to sound like a trend, but if you're gonna lose the E-windows..?
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-16-2019, 12:38 PM
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#84
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
*raises hand*It's starting to sound like a trend, but if you're gonna lose the E-windows..?
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I haven't really thought of getting rid of the emergency windows...
Will I need the emergency windows if I have 3 different doors for exit?
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07-16-2019, 12:51 PM
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#85
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Wa'al... you did say, "all." [emoji57]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
I haven't really thought of getting rid of the emergency windows...
Will I need the emergency windows if I have 3 different doors for exit?
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I suppose it's a matter of aesthetics and intent. My shotgun e-window is behind my kitchen counter, rendering pretty much useless for it's designed function. Before completing my overhead storage on that side, I've considered pulling out the unfinished framing, and swapping it out with one of the plain, otherwise unimpeded windows.
In a non-buggy environment, they're good to prop open, like a big ol' jalousie window, allowing a really nice air flow.
Prolly a moot point: different manufactures' windows are of different dimensions, so an exact fit is highly unlikely...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-16-2019, 01:05 PM
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#86
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Wa'al... you did say, "all." [emoji57]I suppose it's a matter of aesthetics and intent. My shotgun e-window is behind my kitchen counter, rendering pretty much useless for it's designed function. Before completing my overhead storage on that side, I've considered pulling out the unfinished framing, and swapping it out with one of the plain, otherwise unimpeded windows.
In a non-buggy environment, they're good to prop open, like a big ol' jalousie window, allowing a really nice air flow.
Prolly a moot point: different manufactures' windows are of different dimensions, so an exact fit is highly unlikely...
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True... I did say all... So all of the bus windows that open (slide down) will be removed. I have purchased 3 RV windows to replace after I sheet metal everything. I will have egress out of the rear door, camper door, and the driver door. I'm trying to keep safety for my family #1 in my build so you have me thinking... Thanks for the conversation and sorry to hijack the thread!!
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08-19-2019, 09:12 PM
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#87
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Finding time to work on the bus has been difficult lately. However, passing by Lowes has been productive (just not so much on my wallet). I have a shower base, MaxxAir fan, lots of lumber, hardware, etc., but nothing installed. Today I finally started building inside the bus! I installed the start of the garage ceiling/bed bottom. We've also cleaned up and primed all the rust on the outside of the bus, hoping we can paint sometime soon. About 1/4 of the bus has been sanded in prep for paint, as well. Anyway, hopefully things will start moving forward quickly again soon! It seems like all my spare bus time has been spent planning how to build things out, so I guess it's been productive.
Chris
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08-22-2019, 08:30 AM
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#88
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 27
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Chevy Express Hi Cube Bus
Engine: 6.0l
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Your thread / build is inspiring. I wish you lived in New Jersey so I could get some help with mine. We have the same bus year/type. I will not be as detailed as you have been, since I’m not very mechanically inclined, What I have done is cover two windows on either side with custom ordered / cut sheet metal I spray painted black with rustoleum paint, pulled back the metal under the windows to inspect the insulation and add reflectix. The insulation was in good condition and I’m the type of the person that likes to leave well enough alone. “If it ain’t broke....” I siliconed those windows, added great stuff in the gaps in between all the windows, and switched one of the emergency windows to allow use in the new kitchen area. That will probably be the extent on the interior.
I may rip up the rubber flooring, fill in the floor rails with something. Lol. Then I plan to silicone the outside of all the windows, check out the roof and tackle that next. I purchased some rust dissolved jelly and a 5 gallon bucket of Henry’s solar flex roof coating to coat the roof. I want to silicone around he emergency hatches, so I can continue to use them for air circulation, and then try to tackle the interior design. I plan on putting a king size bed in the back, a bathroom and kitchen on the right, with a futon and closet on the left.
I did have a question about the windows. Did you cut the wires to the emergency hatches and have a problem starting the bus? My brother said he pulled a fuse and that may be the issue, but I’m just trying to figure it all out as I go along. My radio doesn’t work and I bought a new one and it still isn’t working, so my brother was messing with the fuses and we still haven’t gotten that to work yet.
I look forward to continue reading your progress. Good luck.
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08-22-2019, 11:45 PM
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#89
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 421
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Can you go into how and why you pulled the windows? Did you do like a leak test or something like that? My bus doesn't appear to leak, and we're strongly considering just leaving the windows as is.
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08-27-2019, 10:04 AM
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#90
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 27
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Chevy Express Hi Cube Bus
Engine: 6.0l
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I pulled the windows out to move them around. I didn’t pull out most, just three. Two to switch and the other to replace the window with sheet metal, since it was getting covered up anyway. I’m with you, if it ain’t broke, don’t mess with it...lol.
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09-02-2019, 08:15 PM
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#91
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Sorry it's been awhile. Some of the interlock wires to the windows and emergency hatches were already severed when I got the bus. The ones that weren't were easily removed - they were not actually interlocked, but simply activated a buzzer (the ones that were still "hooked up"). The only thing that was interlocked to the ignition on my bus was the deadbolt for the back door. I simply put a jumper in place of the relay once I tested it with a test light, and it's never been an issue since (I removed the deadbolt).
Chris
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09-02-2019, 08:35 PM
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#92
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Status update! I still haven't had much time to work on the bus. I had to build a fence earlier this weekend, unexpectedly, but that's OK too. Anyway, I'm almost finished knocking out the few remaining leaks. Nearly all the windows were leak free after putting some roofing caulk in the lower corners of each. That stuff is STICKY, and leaves quite the mess, but I'll live with the mess... All but one window were no longer leaking! The last window was leaking between the glass and rubber gasket, so I got some crystal clear polyurethane caulk and ran a bead between the glass and rubber. I was smart and taped up the glass 1/8" in beforehand, so the sealant isn't messy like the black roofing caulk. If I had known how the clear stuff worked beforehand, I would have preferred that instead. Anyway, my main windows are finally leak free! I only need to run a bead of caulk around the handicap window, as that's the last leak I have.
As a bit of insurance, I ran an extra bead of caulk along the inside bottom edge of each window, once they were leak free, just in case, since nearly all will be covered going forward. Here you can also see that I caulked over the rub rail rivets, since I found a few of those weeping as well when I was leak testing the windows.
From there, on to more fun stuff. As I posed elsewhere, I'm trying to keep my headroom loss to a minimum, so I'm running boards between the ceiling ribs and using pocket holes to attach them. I put a thin piece of foundation weather break foam between the boards and roof to help keep the noise down between the two hard surfaces. A few test pieces are in place below - I'll need to do a lot more of them, but it looks like it'll work well so far! (Ignore the half-painted roof panels...)
I also finally got to building the interior! The bed frame is basically in - I just need to run some 2x4's across the rails as my bed slats. Also, since the two 42-gallon fresh water tanks will be under the bed, I made the bed rails removable - I plan to use table leaf pins to "lock" things in place when the bed is together. I also built the frame for the first shower wall, and attached 2-bys to the floor where the shower base will be.
A little cleaner, and with the rails removed - VERY important for now, since I need to go get a few more pieces of plywood with the bus before I do much more on the interior.
We're also planning a small closet about 11" deep at the foot of the bed. The basic frame is also built. It won't go below the level of the bed rails, and will stop about 2.5" from the handicap door, allowing a small cavity where we can hang up cables, hoses, etc. to keep them out of the way (the other side of the back wall of the closet).
Guess that's about it for now! Hoping to make enough progress to have the bed installed in another month when I need to take a road trip with the bus, regardless of what shape it's in. If all goes well, hopefully there will also be rudimentary electric and some storage built as well! I'm hoping the water tanks will be mounted, but not yet plumbed, as well. Time will tell!
Chris
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09-12-2019, 09:53 AM
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#93
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 27
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Chevy Express Hi Cube Bus
Engine: 6.0l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farok
Progress! The front "landing" was removed, and the floor was prepped, Ospho-ed, and the first coat of primer is on! If all goes well, I may get the second coat on Thursday, and the subfloor over the weekend. Time and availability will tell...
Chris
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Hi,
What type of primer did you use on the flooring? Was It a necessary thing or was it applied to avoid further rusting? Thanks and keep up the great work!
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09-13-2019, 07:23 AM
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#94
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evey_c
Hi,
What type of primer did you use on the flooring? Was It a necessary thing or was it applied to avoid further rusting? Thanks and keep up the great work!
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Thanks!! I used Rustoleum rusty metal primer, after using Ospho on the whole floor to etch it. It wasn't needed across most of it, but figured it would help protect it in the long run, and since I had a gallon of the stuff...
Chris
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09-17-2019, 09:24 PM
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#95
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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The last week or so saw some more progress on the bus! Tonight was MaxxAir fan night, first of all. I poked 4 holes in the roof with a drill, where I had the framing earlier, then taped between them to keep the paint from chipping too badly and cut the 14x14 hole with the angle grinder.
I test fitted the fan's flange, then used more butyl tape to seal the flange to the roof. I screwed it all down, then used the better part of a tube of Dicor to seal it all up. I don't expect to use the Dicor before it goes bad in the tube, and so figured I might as well use it all up! I also patched a few other places where I'm not sure the previous seal is as good as it could be. Anyway, attached the fan and it looks pretty good!
I've also been working on the closet at the foot of our bed. The base of the closet will be at the base of the bed frame rails, so it's quite deep down from the doors, about 16-18" I suppose. Lots of storage! The doors are sliders to take up less room (though I know you can only have one side open at a time...). I cut the grooves on top and bottom in a 2x4 on the table saw. Now I just need to figure out what sort of handles/hardware to use.
The last project was a better locking system for the rear door. I've seen others do this, so it's not unique, but works well! As of now, I don't have an outside key - it's unlocked from the inside only for now. I can add a key easily later (it came in the kit), when I borrow my dad's hole saws later in the build.
The next phase of the build will hopefully focus on the start of the electrical system, at least just enough to get us going with lights and the fan on our first trip! Hopefully that'll make some good progress in the next week or two. Still hoping for a trip in the bus this fall.
Chris
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09-20-2019, 08:07 PM
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#96
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Hey Chris, I just read through your build and looked at your floor plan. Are you sticking to that? What’s your box dimensions?
Thanks
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09-21-2019, 07:54 AM
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#97
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
Hey Chris, I just read through your build and looked at your floor plan. Are you sticking to that? What’s your box dimensions?
Thanks
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We've swapped the shower, counter, and co-pilot seat to the opposite side, for two reasons. First, the wife would like to sit as close to the front, across from me, as possible, and second so that we can put the plumbing, water pump, inlet, etc. from the under-bed water tank just inside the handicap door for easy access. Otherwise, the same basic layout is staying.
Oh, and I almost forgot! The box is basically 16' from where the usable floor space starts. Standard 7.5' wide.
Chris
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09-22-2019, 08:14 PM
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#98
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 375
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Didn't get a chance to get pictures from the work this weekend, but progress is as follows: I built a small cabinet for the electronics and mounted the Progressive Dynamics power center. I also poked a hole through the wall for the AC inlet (just using a 15-amp connection for now) and managed to get a single box wired up through the converter! It may not seem like much, but having even two outlets inside the bus is a huge step forward, one we can make further progress from.
I also wired a terminal block to connect all the positive DC wires from the back of the power center so I don't have to mess with them directly, as well as a buss bar for the negatives. I have the 100ah battery, battery monitor, and enough cable to wire that and the lights and MaxxAir fan, so that's hopefully the next step. The deep cycle battery I bought is sized to fit in the current battery box - I plan to simply remove one of the two starting batteries, as the bus in its current config has no need for a pair of starting batteries.
Chris
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09-22-2019, 09:59 PM
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#99
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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I know what you mean about having an outlet or two. I have ran a lot of wiring but I haven't hooked it up yet until I do some other work first. So when we were camping, we had two outlets that were usable. One of them the fridge was plugged into and the other one the power convertor was plugged into. So we had two outlets and used them all of the time!
Let me know how the maxxair fan works for you. I have an RV air conditioner, but once I get RV windows with screens installed I'm thinking about one of those fans... Keep up the progress!!
__________________
2007 Collins (Chevy Express 3500)
LMM Duramax Diesel with newly rebuilt 4L85E Transmission!
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09-23-2019, 02:50 AM
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#100
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Oh yeah. The feeling of powering SOMETHING from inside the bus after having to string up extension cords is wonderful. My second best related feeling was when I was able to power up my air compressor from inside the bus. It was tripping the 15 amp circuit in the garage. I then had the thought ... I have a 30 amp circuit feeding a couple of 20A outlets in the bus. It was nice to be able to use the bus in a situation thaat enabled me to do more than I could have before the bus.
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