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08-11-2017, 12:28 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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flooring...marine ply and liquid nails
finally, vinyl, rotten subfloor pulled, screw/bolt holes sealed, steel primed...now ready for new subfloor...any advice or cautions on sealing marine ply and then using liquid nails instead of making new screw holes in the steel floor?
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08-11-2017, 01:31 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stone21
screw/bolt holes sealed,
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What method?
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08-11-2017, 01:41 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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08-11-2017, 02:35 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
What method?
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You're totally trolling for another pennies vs poker chips vs bubble gum thread on floor-hole-plugging!
I support the idea of using adhesive to fasten the new plywood down.
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08-11-2017, 02:48 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
You're totally trolling for another pennies vs poker chips vs bubble gum thread on floor-hole-plugging!
I support the idea of using adhesive to fasten the new plywood down.
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yes...and i'm sure the debate will go on and on, but i chose tape because i don't have that many pennies, i don't play poker, and i always swallow my gum too early.
many thanks for the support of the adhesive solution...i was hoping i wouldn't get laughed off the forum.
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08-11-2017, 02:59 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
You're totally trolling for another pennies vs poker chips vs bubble gum thread on floor-hole-plugging!
I support the idea of using adhesive to fasten the new plywood down.
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Nope, looking for the next 'Best idea ever" since I haven't gotten to mine yet.
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08-11-2017, 03:12 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
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Why marine ply and not regular ply if you treated the floor? Are you insulating the floor at all? Liquid nails is awesome stuff will definitely work for you
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08-11-2017, 03:23 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr
Why marine ply and not regular ply if you treated the floor? Are you insulating the floor at all? Liquid nails is awesome stuff will definitely work for you
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pacific northwet...perhaps marine is overkill, but my recent experience removing rotten ply flooring and seeing all the different caulkings used by the school district on all the body seams concerns me...not insulating...just thinking a boat on wheels in case the creek rises.
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08-11-2017, 03:41 PM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
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I'm with you i feel theres alot to learn from boat builders. My guess would be the floor was rotten from water leaking through the windows and roof hatches. Definitely seal all that before proceeding. I made the mistake of waiting to seal my windows. My walls and floor took major water in heavy rains. You seem way smarter than me so sure you have it figured out. Cheers
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08-11-2017, 03:42 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
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Oh one more thing I'm all about overkill then you won't have to redo it. Again smart
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08-11-2017, 06:28 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Marine ply is the only way to go in my book. These rigs are gonna get wet (rain, spills, plumbing leaks, etc. ) and everything you build out will be sitting on top of it. Not the place to scrimp.
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08-11-2017, 06:36 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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I made the mistake of not sealing all my windows before floors. I ruined an area in the garage. Also had a minor flood while working on plumbing. Hit the same spot in the garage. Goodbye $2/sq.ft. I had to pull out a dehumidifier and leave it there for a few days. Definitely would have been a good idea to use marine ply.
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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08-14-2017, 07:37 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stone21
pacific northwet...perhaps marine is overkill, but my recent experience removing rotten ply flooring and seeing all the different caulkings used by the school district on all the body seams concerns me...not insulating...just thinking a boat on wheels in case the creek rises.
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Better over than under.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr
Oh one more thing I'm all about overkill then you won't have to redo it. Again smart
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You're going to need 10 sheets to do a 40 foot bus. The difference in price isn't going to break the bank (hopefully).
Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolff
I made the mistake of not sealing all my windows before floors. I ruined an area in the garage. Also had a minor flood while working on plumbing. Hit the same spot in the garage. Goodbye $2/sq.ft. I had to pull out a dehumidifier and leave it there for a few days. Definitely would have been a good idea to use marine ply.
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In a complete flood, I dunno if any wood is the right wood. It's still going to soak up water and possibly swell a little. Marine grade just isn't going to rot like the non treated.
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08-14-2017, 08:16 AM
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#14
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stone21
finally, vinyl, rotten subfloor pulled, screw/bolt holes sealed, steel primed...now ready for new subfloor...any advice or cautions on sealing marine ply and then using liquid nails instead of making new screw holes in the steel floor?
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I like your style if I can afford it I'll use Marine grade as well. And as far as the holes go I think most methods with something flat (I like to call it the bridge) over something hat adheres wel to metal should seal them. Also I think screws or bolts are overkill, liquid nails should work just fine. I've had success in our last bus with a complete floating floor, I mean after all the stuff we end up putting on top of the floor there's no way its coming up. We lived with a floating floor for two years in our first bus and saw no problems, the only thing I worried about was the seams or corners curling up, but I used OSB in our first bus and I would NEVER touch that stuff again because when it gets wet it swells, an will never go back to normal.
Looking good!
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08-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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[QUOTE=Brewerbob;219300]Better over than under.
You're going to need 10 sheets to do a 40 foot bus. The difference in price isn't going to break the bank (hopefully).
sure glad my bus is a shorty...4 sheets better match my budget.
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08-14-2017, 10:18 AM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stone21
sure glad my bus is a shorty...4 sheets better match my budget.
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Remember that when you're trying to shove one more cabinet for storage in there.
Shorties definitely have their place (especially in parking lots) but I want to try and live in mine. I'm not claustrophobic but might become so if I had to live in a shortie.
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08-14-2017, 10:29 AM
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#17
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Remember that when you're trying to shove one more cabinet for storage in there.
Shorties definitely have their place (especially in parking lots) but I want to try and live in mine. I'm not claustrophobic but might become so if I had to live in a shortie.
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true that.
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08-14-2017, 04:04 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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When I laid down marine ply on my shorty I used adhesive plus a few screws. Where I spent a little more time was on the joints. I used my router and glued bisquits into all the joined edges to keep them flat and flush. I will be putting raised dot rubber Pirelli tile throughout and don't want anything popping or buckling up later.
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08-14-2017, 05:31 PM
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#19
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
When I laid down marine ply on my shorty I used adhesive plus a few screws. Where I spent a little more time was on the joints. I used my router and glued bisquits into all the joined edges to keep them flat and flush. I will be putting raised dot rubber Pirelli tile throughout and don't want anything popping or buckling up later.
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thanks for the tip...also finishing with the pirelli sounds a perfect solution for your vintage bus.
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08-14-2017, 06:31 PM
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#20
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I will be putting raised dot rubber Pirelli tile
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Sure does meet almo$t all the requirements- flexible, comfortable, easy to clean, soundproof...
Am flooring shopping myself.
Pirelli info
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