Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-20-2019, 08:35 AM   #21
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnehaha Co., SD
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinDarcy11 View Post
Well sh** now I'm worried! Have spent days getting these things out and they might be structural!? What do you guys think, are these structural?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eXc...ew?usp=sharing

That metal piece on the wall that runs the length of the bus, where the seat belts are attached to....that's the chair rail.
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 08:37 AM   #22
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 22,468
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinDarcy11 View Post
Well sh** now I'm worried! Have spent days getting these things out and they might be structural!? What do you guys think, are these structural?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eXc...ew?usp=sharing
The wc anchors?

nah
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 08:49 AM   #23
Almost There
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 78
Year: 2002
Engine: T444E/Allison 2000
Realized after posting and reading how dumb that question was bahahahh thanks guys
KevinDarcy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:55 AM   #24
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
If all else fails, try a longer ratchet. I've used various things over the years to give a mechanical advantage ("cheater" bars, pipes and such). I've *Stood* on tools to loosen stubborn fasteners (but do so carefully, don't want any injuries).


I wouldn't start with the grinder if I haven't managed to break loose the bolts (or round them off), but that's just me.
I ended up tabling this last night, as it was already 2AM. It was making me crazy and I make a point of trying to stop being crazy before 3.

Anyway, every time I try to get more leverage with a longer ratchet, the ratchet ends up just coming off the bolt. I know you can't see it in the picture, but it really is a shallow bolt, not like normal, more like a round-topped carriage bolt with hex edges.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:59 AM   #25
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Why not just go to a shop and have them remove it with an impact driver?
10 minutes and you are gone.
Grinders can hurt anyone, especially someone without the feel for using one properly.



John
Yeah, I am not inclined to have this be basically my first angle grinder project.

But I don't think I'm going to have much luck finding a shop to just pop these off; my attempts to do anything like that around here always end with somebody using the word "liability."

I am going to see I can rent an air wrench at Home Depot.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:17 AM   #26
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Hempstead Tx
Posts: 207
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: t444e
Or you can get a torque multiplier. They come in handy, specially for suspension work
ChiliChzPoopTart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:24 AM   #27
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,361
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Firebuild,

I have seen bolts similar to what you are describing. I had the proper size socket but it had a bevel right at the opening and I could not get good purchase. A gent on the job saw my struggle and loaned me a socket that worked.

His socket started out as a regular deep socket then he cut it in half. That eliminated the little bevel and gave me good purchase on the bolt heads.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:38 AM   #28
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliChzPoopTart View Post
Or you can get a torque multiplier. They come in handy, specially for suspension work
Ooh, never heard of that. I'll have to research.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 01:55 PM   #29
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Firebuild,

I have seen bolts similar to what you are describing. I had the proper size socket but it had a bevel right at the opening and I could not get good purchase. A gent on the job saw my struggle and loaned me a socket that worked.

His socket started out as a regular deep socket then he cut it in half. That eliminated the little bevel and gave me good purchase on the bolt heads.
Yeah I'm thinking a shallower socket would work, and I didn't even think about that bevel. I am going to pick up an impact driver shortly at Home Despot. I've never used one but I gather it's basically like a drill driver with more torque? If anyone has any tips for me on that let me know. I will see if they have any shallower sockets while I'm there.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:07 PM   #30
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
Yeah I'm thinking a shallower socket would work, and I didn't even think about that bevel. I am going to pick up an impact driver shortly at Home Despot. I've never used one but I gather it's basically like a drill driver with more torque? If anyone has any tips for me on that let me know. I will see if they have any shallower sockets while I'm there.
Shallow socket does the exact same thing as a long socket. Probably won't find shallow sockets.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:53 PM   #31
Bus Nut
 
TJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 584
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
Yeah I'm thinking a shallower socket would work, and I didn't even think about that bevel. I am going to pick up an impact driver shortly at Home Despot. I've never used one but I gather it's basically like a drill driver with more torque? If anyone has any tips for me on that let me know. I will see if they have any shallower sockets while I'm there.
Make sure you are using a 6 point impact socket of the correct size.

Ted
TJones is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 07:11 PM   #32
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Well now I feel pretty dopey. This afternoon I tried using my driver for a little project that should certainly have worked and found it was stripped. I don't know if it broke as a result of trying to get those bolts out, or if it being broken was why I couldn't. Either way, I went to Home Depot and bought a new DeWalt impact driver and the bolts came out like butter (well, not like butter, but you know what I mean!). Moral of the story: make sure the tool is not broken. It was a cheapie Walmart special to begin with.

Thanks for all your input and help! This is yet another chapter in the "Idiot's Guide to Bus Conversion" I seem to writing in my compiled posts here.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 07:24 PM   #33
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,066
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Glad you got it sorted.
Brad_SwiftFur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 07:31 PM   #34
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 279
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
That beveled area on a socket is called a broach on some bolts I have found it necessary to grind the broach off the face of the socket I usually find one of my "diposable" sockets as a Matco or snapon would be pretty pricey to take off the few of those bolts you are likely to encounter in one's lifetime.


Gene
__________________
Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
Gdog 5651 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 07:35 PM   #35
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 279
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
Well now I feel pretty dopey. This afternoon I tried using my driver for a little project that should certainly have worked and found it was stripped. I don't know if it broke as a result of trying to get those bolts out, or if it being broken was why I couldn't. Either way, I went to Home Depot and bought a new DeWalt impact driver and the bolts came out like butter (well, not like butter, but you know what I mean!). Moral of the story: make sure the tool is not broken. It was a cheapie Walmart special to begin with.

Thanks for all your input and help! This is yet another chapter in the "Idiot's Guide to Bus Conversion" I seem to writing in my compiled posts here.
Believe me when I say even though I have been doing these kinds of things most of my life you may have written a chapter but I feel I wrote most of the book. Gene
__________________
Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
Gdog 5651 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2019, 02:57 AM   #36
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,288
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Glad to see you were able to conquer the bolts! (... and the broken driver)
Native is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2019, 07:15 PM   #37
Mini-Skoolie
 
queen_bee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 11
Year: 2003
Chassis: Microbird
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
OK, here it is. IN the second picture, you can see something i didn't even realize, which is that one of the bolts is already missing. As you can see, it attaches to the wall, starting at the edge of the side door and running until where the hand rail is next to the front steps.

You can't really tell in the photo but the bolt is shallower than the hex bolts I'm used to, and rounded on the top.

Attachment 30086

Attachment 30087

Attachment 30088
Doesn't look structural but i used mine to frame to without having to put a ton of holes in the bus. Just something to consider..
queen_bee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2019, 07:52 PM   #38
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by queen_bee View Post
Doesn't look structural but i used mine to frame to without having to put a ton of holes in the bus. Just something to consider..
I have a vague memory that that's why it was left in, because I had the idea that I would use it as a rail to frame to, but it just turned out to be in an awkward position for me, not useful to my configuration. Now that it's gone things have come together much more neatly.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2019, 08:51 AM   #39
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Pensacola Fl
Posts: 30
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International
Rated Cap: 7 Window 20 Passengers
When I can't get a bolt out I use a grinder or a drill & drill them out/ Usually a grinder. I would however make sure this isn't a major part of the the bus, if so build around it.
MrBoogie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2019, 09:53 AM   #40
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Waltham MA
Posts: 507
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBoogie View Post
When I can't get a bolt out I use a grinder or a drill & drill them out/ Usually a grinder. I would however make sure this isn't a major part of the the bus, if so build around it.
This problem has already been solved.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×