My Short bus build...

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I'm only 5'9". Before tearing the floor out I had 76" in the middle of the bus. I should have around 77" now the rubber and ply wood is gone. I haven't torn a ceiling panel off yet. I don't plan to raise the roof (at least with my first bus).

I have to replace floor pans in sections. Even tho no one will see it, I'll know it's there... Lol

How much headroom will you lose when you insulate and add flooring?

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Mark_In_MA

I'd consider it. Some of the adhesive advertise that the adhesive joint will actually be stronger then the metal its joining. (Kinda like gluing balsa with super glue - the glue won't fail, the Balasa will splinter first.)

I'm not even sure I'd spring for the 3M stuff on the floor. While you want it watertight, it's a panel that's going to be sitting horizontally, on top of another panel, with a sheet of wood/foam on top of it. There's very little lateral force on it. I'm fairly sure that the metal under the floor is to keep the bus weathertight more then anything else. The plywood takes most of the load.

I've read the same things you are saying and it makes sense to me. That's why I'm considering it. You do make a good point regarding the 3m adhesive. It is expensive and is probably over kill. I actually thought about just using a normal seam sealer as well.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

How much headroom will you lose when you insulate and add flooring?

I'm not sure. I have to decide on flooring first... Lol I'm asking for opinions... I thought about some 1" close cell insulation (like maybe the pink insulation sheets?) Then cover with 1/2" ply wood followed by a vinyl click together "wood look" flooring over the top of the plywood... If I go that route I would be back to around 1 3/4" used up? So I would have 75" give or take in the middle of the bus?

I would like to remove the metal sheeting on inside of ceiling and add insulation and tongue and groove boards like some have done.

If I could only insulate one place it would probably be the roof...

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I'm not sure. I have to decide on flooring first... Lol I'm asking for opinions... I thought about some 1" close cell insulation (like maybe the pink insulation sheets?) Then cover with 1/2" ply wood followed by a vinyl click together "wood look" flooring over the top of the plywood... If I go that route I would be back to around 1 3/4" used up? So I would have 75" give or take in the middle of the bus?

I would like to remove the metal sheeting on inside of ceiling and add insulation and tongue and groove boards like some have done.

If I could only insulate one place it would probably be the roof...

Be a total waste to insulate only one place, though insulating the ceiling will definitely ward off some dirt sunlight heat, but if you plan on spending any time in the bus ceiling, walls, and floor need to be insulated.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Be a total waste to insulate only one place, though insulating the ceiling will definitely ward off some dirt sunlight heat, but if you plan on spending any time in the bus ceiling, walls, and floor need to be insulated.

Yeah over the summer in the sun, the ceiling inside was very hot to the touch. So I at least want to ditch the metal ceiling panels. I plan to insualte the walls as well. If I keep the original bus windows I think that will be a lot of heat loss/heat coming in summer. I've made some covers for the windows to try and they work well. I also plan to remove the original bus door and put in a camper door.

We'll just be camping and tailgating. So not too long of periods staying in it. All I know is last summer when it's 100 degrees out it's that or worse in the bus if parked and not running with AC on. So I want to be comfortable in 100 degree heat and warm in cold weather as well...

[Frochevy]

Well after seeing all the motivation of you good folks on this site, I have been motivated to get back to work on my bus. I now have my 3rd child on the ground. He is about two weeks old now! I am finally done getting ready for another kid and I am able to work on some projects here and there.

I had a buddy stop by after work this evening and help me pull the rest of the rubber mat. I have had back issues in the past and I didn't want to mess it up again yanking on that! I ran a straight hoe under it while he pulled and it came up very quickly. I was able to remove most of the bolts with my cordless impact with only a few stripping out. Some that were really gummed up I cleaned out with an awl and/or used a hammer to seat the torx bit down into the head before using the impact. There was a slight splatter of a red adhesive between the plywood and the galvanized sheet metal floor. I used a crow bar to pop the wood up. The sheet metal is very thin so I tried to stay over a support when prying.

I'll get better pics after I get everything cleaned out and put in the trailer to head to the dump.

[farok]

Looking good so far! Thanks for posting, and congrats on the new member of the family!

[Frochevy]

I had some little helpers today picking up the floor screws and sweeping. I got all of the wood and rubber thrown into the trailer that will go to the dump.

Then I decided to take a few roof panels down to see what I'm dealing with. It looks like the roof panels are 22 gauge. I plan to use the panels to repair sections of the floor.

I have a few questions I would like some input:

1. I was thinking of going with the foil faced polyiso insulation on the floor. Initially was going with 1", then put 1/2" ply wood back over it. Should I go 1/2" on floor,? Or should I do something totally different on the floor?

2. What should I insulate roof with? I know in the summer the roof panels get hot to the touch. I think this is due to steel on steel. I plan to use wood of some sort for the ceiling but want to keep fair amount of head room. Any thoughts?

3. Walls? Same polyiso? 1"?

4. Windows? I'm really thinking about getting some sheet metal and removing all side windows then put a few RV windows with screens back in where needed. Any down falls to this idea? I've seen others do it and like how it looks!

5. Propane storage- I'm thinking of making a storage area at passenger rear to hold two grill size propane bottles. There will be open bottom and access door on the outside. I'm not sure if this is legal for Kansas but not sure where to find out? Although not sure why it wouldn't be legal. I just want ensure it is safe if I do it.

I have more I'm sure but I'll limit it to 5 for now... Lol thanks for your input!!

[Frochevy]

Here's my helpers today... And most days I'm in the bus... Lol

[Rovobay]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I have a few questions I would like some input:

1. I was thinking of going with the foil faced polyiso insulation on the floor. Initially was going with 1", then put 1/2" ply wood back over it. Should I go 1/2" on floor,? Or should I do something totally different on the floor?

2. What should I insulate roof with? I know in the summer the roof panels get hot to the touch. I think this is due to steel on steel. I plan to use wood of some sort for the ceiling but want to keep fair amount of head room. Any thoughts?

3. Walls? Same polyiso? 1"?

4. Windows? I'm really thinking about getting some sheet metal and removing all side windows then put a few RV windows with screens back in where needed. Any down falls to this idea? I've seen others do it and like how it looks!

5. Propane storage- I'm thinking of making a storage area at passenger rear to hold two grill size propane bottles. There will be open bottom and access door on the outside. I'm not sure if this is legal for Kansas but not sure where to find out? Although not sure why it wouldn't be legal. I just want ensure it is safe if I do it.

Hey, I can tell you what i did and why. take it with a grain of salt!

1. insulation depends on your temperture range you plan to encounter. I will be in cold weather at high elevations when I go Elk hunting in Oregon in OctNov. I went with 2" insulation on the floor. Something else to consider is your overall height of the interior and how much space you need. how tall are you or the tallest person using the bus.

2. some people spray foam but that can be spendy. I just used foam board 1.5" fit flush with the ribs of my bus. I am in the process of a cedar tongue and groove board install. boards are an inch thick, so I am lowering the roof by 1 inch.

3. chair rails in my bus were sticking out 1.5 inches so I built out the walls 1.5 inches and used 2x2 (actual size is 1.5x1.5) for framing. worked out pretty good.

4. no input but curious as I have several windows I salvaged from a camper I gutted for my build

5. see my build thread for what I did for my propane tanks. my build thread is in the link below my signature here.

Cheers!!!

[farok]

For propane storage, I'm not terribly happy putting the bottles inside, even if vented below (that and I need the storage space). You'll find all sorts of theories on whether or not this is good - that's up to you. The van folks seem to always have it inside without issue if done right. Anyway I plan to mount two 5-lb bottles under the skirting on the frame. They are small enough to not drop below the skirting, and for the little that I'll be using propane for, they're sufficient.

Chris

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by farok

For propane storage, I'm not terribly happy putting the bottles inside, even if vented below (that and I need the storage space). You'll find all sorts of theories on whether or not this is good - that's up to you. The van folks seem to always have it inside without issue if done right. Anyway I plan to mount two 5-lb bottles under the skirting on the frame. They are small enough to not drop below the skirting, and for the little that I'll be using propane for, they're sufficient.

Chris

I would build a box and essentially they will be mounted under as well. There would be a cut out in the floor will be raised up some to accommodate the tanks under the skirting. I don't have much depth on my skirting at the rear so ill have to raise the floor some.

[Frochevy]

I took down a few more roof panels this afternoon. Also roughly removed areas I'll be replacing where there was rust. Used a set of shears I picked up from harbor freight on sale awhile back. It slices through the thin 26 gauge floor panels like butter.

Now I really have to decide on propane storage before doing much more on the floor...

I'm also looking at an Onan 3600 lp quiet generator I found on Craigslist. It's a 2002 model and supposedly has never been started. Would be sweet if I could score it for a deal and mount under the bus!!

[o1marc]

Are you sure they are not 16g, 26g is like aluminum foil, I doubt you have that for floor material.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Are you sure they are not 16g, 26g is like aluminum foil, I doubt you have that for floor material.

It is like tin foil! Lol I was surprised to see it was that thin. According to my old guage I bought used....

[Tango]

26 gauge? No wonder it is all eaten up! The floor on my antique is closer to 14 than 16 and is still solid after 73 years.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Tango

26 gauge? No wonder it is all eaten up! The floor on my antique is closer to 14 than 16 and is still solid after 73 years.

I agree! They don't make them like they used to!!! It looks like everything was galvanized and they just put an adhesive down and overlapped and laid the sheet metal down. Then put the plywood wood on top. Then followed up with under coating...

[Frochevy]

Well I pulled my ECM and I'll be mailing it to John Kennedy tomorrow. I purchased a custom tune from Kennedy Diesel. I hope this is the final thing that will fix my P0087 low fuel pressure code in the summer heat. He is also going to disable the EGR and delete the DPF. I'll purchase some exhaust tubing and build a "test pipe" to install in place of the dpf.

I noticed a missing bolt where my muffler flange bolts up, so I will need to fix that as well...

And also noticed some rust on my rear door... Not sure what I'll do there... Remove window, cut out section and replace, change door configuration.... Who knows... Lol

I'll Keep adding to the list!

[Frochevy]

Well I had a good weekend. I didn't actually work on the bus, but I smoked a total of 80lbs of summer sausage and made a trip to pick up some seats for my dinette area and a fridge! The fridge is a 2015 model Norcold N811 2 way and was pulled from the toy hauler after one use for more room! The seats are from a van of some sort. They are more comfortable than the original bench seats I removed. They have integrated seat belts as well as anchors on the rear of two of them for car seats. I also scored a fold up jump seat I'm not sure if I'll use yet. I got him to throw it in with the others so I thought why not!?

[Frochevy]

I started measuring and cutting over the weekend. I decided on a 20" x 30" x 16" box for propane bottles. The locker will be mounted behind the driver side rear dual wheels. Im making the frame from 1" sq tubing and spot welding sheet metal on from the roof ceiling panels. It will be raised inside approximately the same height as the wheel wells. It's been some thinking and work, but I've got a good start on it. I'll worry more when I go to cut the outside of the bus for the access door! Here's a few pics so far... I got to try out my new (used) welder.

I decided on a smaller door so I didn't have to have one custom made. The boards are to mock up the door opening (24") to ensure I can get the bottles in/out ok.