My Short bus build...

[Frochevy]

I take pictures with my phone. They show up normal on my phone but when I upload, sometimes it turns them sideways, upside down.. who knows. Any way to fix this so you folks don't have to stand on your head to view???

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I take pictures with my phone. They show up normal on my phone but when I upload, sometimes it turns them sideways, upside down.. who knows. Any way to fix this so you folks don't have to stand on your head to view???

Nope, seems to be a site issue. I'm surprised mine have posted correctly lately.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I take pictures with my phone. They show up normal on my phone but when I upload, sometimes it turns them sideways, upside down.. who knows. Any way to fix this so you folks don't have to stand on your head to view???

I've had no issues posting pics uploaded to Imgur.

[Epomethius]

How did you decide the tune would be worth it? Do you know others doing the same thing? Though far from the worst at 11-15 mpg, I long for better mileage and have wondered if a tune would genuinely make a difference. I've read - not an expert here, like, at all - the chevrolet vans are a detuned duramax compared to the trucks and the 2006 LLYs are detuned version of the later year's tune.

Same question for disabling the EGR if you have a moment to get into it.

[Ravendancer]

Haven’t got it tuned yet as I ended up not being able to trickle charge battery ...long story...and batteries died. Going to get two new ones and go from there, but yes I think the engine should be in top running condition, (for its age), kinda like me.

[Ravendancer]

I noticed your battery has a separate compartment...ours is just sitting on a tray underneath. I may have to put an enclosure on the list of to-do.

Any recommendations on brand of batteries to get? Thanks.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Epomethius

How did you decide the tune would be worth it? Do you know others doing the same thing? Though far from the worst at 11-15 mpg, I long for better mileage and have wondered if a tune would genuinely make a difference. I've read - not an expert here, like, at all - the chevrolet vans are a detuned duramax compared to the trucks and the 2006 LLYs are detuned version of the later year's tune.

Same question for disabling the EGR if you have a moment to get into it.

I had troubles from day one with my bus. I've done research and searched many forums asking questions on the P0087 code (low fuel pressure). See the start of this build thread... Anyhow, everything led to new injectors and/or a guy named John Kennedy. (Kennedy Diesel). I started with installing a twin pump kit to have positive pressure at the cp3 (fuel pump) to hopefully fix my problem. It only happens when it's hot out. The injectors return too much fuel and the desired fuel pressure vs actual is off a little. This pops the p0087 code and puts my bus into "reduced engine power" (limp mode). After the pump didn't fix it I decided I needed injectors @ around $3000 or to try a tune that should fix the limp mode problem. The tune is around $700 (which is way cheaper than injectors).
Since I decided to try the tune, other options like EGR disable and dpf delete is no extra charge. So that's why I decided to do these extra options. The result should be no more code along with increased fuel mileage. Obviously if this doesn't work, I'll have to buy the bullet and replace injectors. Since I'm not pulling big loads this should fix my issue.

You are correct about them de tuning the Duramax in the van chassis. From what I hear part of the reason is the transmission. The Vans don't have an Allison as it won't fit in the van body so that's part of why it is de tuned.
Sorry for the novel, but hope it answers your questions... Basically I could gamble with $700 tune and save a few thousand plus get rid of EGR and dpf so that's the route I went ... Lol

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Ravendancer

I noticed your battery has a separate compartment...ours is just sitting on a tray underneath. I may have to put an enclosure on the list of to-do.

Any recommendations on brand of batteries to get? Thanks.

Yes mine has a slide out tray. It works well as long as the batteries don't ever come loose and rub together and spark. There's really not enough room under the hood to put two batteries.

As far as battery brands go, I don't have a preference other than a good warranty and prorated for x amount of years... I'm close to Topeka and they have an Interstate battery center that sells blem batteries at a nice discount. If I needed new batteries tomorrow, I would go there and buy blems for cheaper and they still have a warranty!!! Might check your area for a place that sells blems...

[Frochevy]

Same question for disabling the EGR if you have a moment to get into it.[/QUOTE]

I don't know if I answered this well enough about EGR... I emailed Mr. Kennedy about it many times and he said he would just disable it within a tune and not actually remove anything. So I decided to go that route.

Try Kennedy Diesel below. He has a lot of good tech articles on his website that I learned just enough to be dangerous... Lol

https://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults.cfm?Category=4

[dazdconfsd]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

You are correct about them de tuning the Duramax in the van chassis. From what I hear part of the reason is the transmission. The Vans don't have an Allison as it won't fit in the van body so that's part of why it is de tuned.
Sorry for the novel, but hope it answers your questions... Basically I could gamble with $700 tune and save a few thousand plus get rid of EGR and dpf so that's the route I went ... Lol

IIRC the 4L80E that we have is rated to ~450lb/ft of torque forcing the lower power tune. From what I've read, there are a few early 2010 models that were made in 2009 with the 6l90E 6 speed and fewer emissions controls vs the later 2010's. They should be able to handle more power with a tune, but I haven't seen confirmation of that so far.

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Yes mine has a slide out tray. It works well as long as the batteries don't ever come loose and rub together and spark. There's really not enough room under the hood to put two batteries.

There should be some hard rubber hold downs in the tray to keep the batteries in place. Due to a lack of faith on my part, I've also tossed a bit of cardboard in there should I need to take them out with less concern later. It's stayed dry and in place so far.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by dazdconfsd

IIRC the 4L80E that we have is rated to ~450lb/ft of torque forcing the lower power tune. From what I've read, there are a few early 2010 models that were made in 2009 with the 6l90E 6 speed and fewer emissions controls vs the later 2010's. They should be able to handle more power with a tune, but I haven't seen confirmation of that so far.



There should be some hard rubber hold downs in the tray to keep the batteries in place. Due to a lack of faith on my part, I've also tossed a bit of cardboard in there should I need to take them out with less concern later. It's stayed dry and in place so far.

Would be nice to have a 6 speed!

Yes mine has the hard rubber hold Downs as well. Just worries me long term. I like the cardboard idea. Id like something for " just in case"

[dazdconfsd]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Would be nice to have a 6 speed!

Yes mine has the hard rubber hold Downs as well. Just worries me long term. I like the cardboard idea. Id like something for " just in case"

Yeah, I'd prefer a 6 speed, but there is too much involved in swapping it out from what I can tell. From what I've read, it needs the newer canbus stuff going for some of it's input. That means I'd be likely looking at a bunch more programming and probably some wiring to make it work than I'm interested in taking on right now.


I think it's probably better to toss an old roadside sign in there vs the cardboard for a bit better durability, but I was in a rush and the cardboard was handy.

[Ravendancer]

Thanks...still learning how to use the forum correctly and am getting 😐 confused.

Appreciate the “novel”. A mechanic told me my EGR valve needs replacing and would cost $2000.00...I ran out of there. Did not like the vibes anyhow.

Working on getting her started as I think the batteries died. Not a mechanic at all, but learning as I go.

[cadillackid]

I thought there were people stuffing allison 1000s into the vans.. if I remember right it was tight but would work..



4L80E's can be built tough.. I used them and the 60E for hotrod projects and was pushing 500+ horsepower through them. (not stock)...



the 6 speed retrofit is a total pain.. and to get the electronics to work even tougher..

although I **THINK** you can make the electronics work by tuning with EFI. and flash a later model 6 speed program into the older model van.



like any drivetrain swap it gets into $$ and work.. ive done them in hotrods, trucks, and busses.. I Love drivetrain swaps but i also own a lot of scan tools and software which didnt come cheap!
-Christopher

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Ravendancer

Thanks...still learning how to use the forum correctly and am getting 😐 confused.

Appreciate the “novel”. A mechanic told me my EGR valve needs replacing and would cost $2000.00...I ran out of there. Did not like the vibes anyhow.

Working on getting her started as I think the batteries died. Not a mechanic at all, but learning as I go.

That's the best way to learn! By doing it!!!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I thought there were people stuffing allison 1000s into the vans.. if I remember right it was tight but would work..



4L80E's can be built tough.. I used them and the 60E for hotrod projects and was pushing 500+ horsepower through them. (not stock)...



the 6 speed retrofit is a total pain.. and to get the electronics to work even tougher..

although I **THINK** you can make the electronics work by tuning with EFI. and flash a later model 6 speed program into the older model van.



like any drivetrain swap it gets into $$ and work.. ive done them in hotrods, trucks, and busses.. I Love drivetrain swaps but i also own a lot of scan tools and software which didnt come cheap!
-Christopher

I'm not positive on the Allison and van chassis. That's just what I read on the internet... Lol so who knows!! I agree on swaps and software! It's a pain!! I went through that on a Nova I put an LT1 and T56 6 speed in...

I've had a code that is "transmission component slipping" that's why I started with filter and trans fluid change. I don't get it too often. I noticed when fully loaded with 6-8 people and all of the tailgate gear I would get it going up long hill. It doesn't come on if I put it in trailer mode. I'll address that after I get the bus loaded and driving. I've read it could be simple as a grounding issue. I also have different tire sizes (front vs rear) and heard that could be causing it. I don't believe that though unless there is wheel speed sensors all around and the computer notices the different speeds due to the tire diameter difference? Any thoughts?

[cadillackid]

That code is set from a difference in transmission input shaft speed vs output shaft speed, it expects being in certain gears that input to output ratios match. If slippage occurs it knows.

There’s separate codes for the converter clutch too. Compared engine rpm to input shaft speed.
I can’t remember in that trans what tow haul mode does other than it raises the shift points and tightens the PWM signal to firm up the shifts. It may hold you in a lower gear longer so you aren’t lugging it and keeps from slipping.

Hardest thing on a trans is low rpm high torque input, the pump works harder to build line pressure to keep the apply piston pressures up which holds the clutches..
clogged filters can def cause slippage at lower rpm high torque scenerios.
Christopher

[dazdconfsd]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I thought there were people stuffing allison 1000s into the vans.. if I remember right it was tight but would work..



4L80E's can be built tough.. I used them and the 60E for hotrod projects and was pushing 500+ horsepower through them. (not stock)...



the 6 speed retrofit is a total pain.. and to get the electronics to work even tougher..

although I **THINK** you can make the electronics work by tuning with EFI. and flash a later model 6 speed program into the older model van.



like any drivetrain swap it gets into $$ and work.. ive done them in hotrods, trucks, and busses.. I Love drivetrain swaps but i also own a lot of scan tools and software which didnt come cheap!
-Christopher

I can't find much about what exactly was done to make it work, but you're right, it does appear possible from this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T701DchUEHI

It's not something that I'd be over anxious to take on randomly, but will consider when the trans eventually acts up. The ability to handle more torque so the engine can at least match the pickups would be nice.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

That code is set from a difference in transmission input shaft speed vs output shaft speed, it expects being in certain gears that input to output ratios match. If slippage occurs it knows.

There’s separate codes for the converter clutch too. Compared engine rpm to input shaft speed.
I can’t remember in that trans what tow haul mode does other than it raises the shift points and tightens the PWM signal to firm up the shifts. It may hold you in a lower gear longer so you aren’t lugging it and keeps from slipping.

Hardest thing on a trans is low rpm high torque input, the pump works harder to build line pressure to keep the apply piston pressures up which holds the clutches..
clogged filters can def cause slippage at lower rpm high torque scenerios.
Christopher

Thanks for the information! That's good to know. I have had the code after I changed fluid and filters so that's why it still worries me... If I have issues moving forward and can't pin point it I might have to have a rebuild. I really think it is something simple because the fluid didn't smell burnt and looked pretty good when I changed it. The magnet in the pan didn't have much material in it either. I'll keep my hopes up. Lol

[dazdconfsd]

Originally Posted by dazdconfsd

I can't find much about what exactly was done to make it work, but you're right, it does appear possible from this video.

It's not something that I'd be over anxious to take on randomly, but will consider when the trans eventually acts up. The ability to handle more torque so the engine can at least match the pickups would be nice.

So I found the build thread for this.

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...lison-sas.html

It requires some wiring and truck parts to make it work, but seems possible. The biggest packaging difficulty seems to be in the hole in the floor the trans needs. Not sure what that would take to do correctly on our buses since the floors are already modified.