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Old 03-25-2015, 06:17 PM   #21
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Did you strip the interior of your bus?

If you did, You may now be trying to paint galvanized steel.

Por 15's metal ready chemicly etches galvanized steel nicely.

Nat
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:13 PM   #22
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I think something like 300-400 should be ok, but just try some.
I'm going with the same paint. I've been impressed already with some I've rolled on. Just primer so far. Won't be painting for at least a couple months.
if its galvanized or bare use some Ospho.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:55 PM   #23
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TSP by the way is an abbreviation for Trisodium Phosphate. It was taken off the market for quite a while due to the Phosphate content.....I only used TSP for cleaning inside my home and outside cleaning for years.

When it was taken off the market I hunted and stockpiled what I could find.

The Company replaced it with TS no P and it sucked big time. Next thing I know it was back...don't know the back story but I was very happy to see it.

Through all of this I ran across a product off of one of the shopping channels called PROFESSOR AMOS SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME. I have found that this product works as well as TSP and is a natural cleaner and doesn't release phosphates into the water ways.

I now use this product instead of TSP. I've never used rubber gloves as instructed on the label for TSP. My hands did get a weird feeling after using but I didn't notice any other problems with it. The SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME just feels like I am using scented water.

Both, from my experience are an excellent degreaser and cleaner and I chose the SHOCK IT just because it appears to be less harmful to the environment and can be used for EVERYTHING.

It all depends on you, I have cleaned many, many walls with TSP prior to painting and have never had a problem. I tried TSP in cleaning the bus ceiling and walls prior to painting and it did not appear to work at all as far as a change to the way they looked. Is was at this time that I got my first bottle of SHOCK IT and the ceiling and walls came completely clean of years of use.

That is what sold me and I no longer have or use TSP in my house or bus.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:48 AM   #24
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TSP by the way is an abbreviation for Trisodium Phosphate. It was taken off the market for quite a while due to the Phosphate content...
Friends and I used to fish in the creeks that ran out of the phosphate mines in south central FL. Yes, we ate the bass that we caught. That land was used for raising cattle so plenty of people ate the beef from there. I wondered why we don't have the pep in our step or the glow in our cheeks that we did back then.
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:26 PM   #25
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Old 03-26-2015, 02:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
If its galvanized or bare use some Ospho.

I like Oshpo better for killing rust than POR 15's metal ready.
However, I'm not sure Oshpo is listed as a chemical etch for galvanized steel?

The metal ready worked great for etching the galvanized I sheeted my bus with last fall. I used a weed sprayer and misted it on. A cool day is better, as the heat and sun will cause it to dry before the chemical has a chance to work.

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Old 03-26-2015, 10:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Breeze View Post
...I now use this product instead of TSP. I've never used rubber gloves as instructed on the label for TSP. My hands did get a weird feeling after using but I didn't notice any other problems with it. The SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME just feels like I am using scented water.
I bought some powder TSP, which is to be mixed with an appropriate amount of warm water.. It works, but if you're seriously trying to do some degreasing for cheap buy the purple industrial cleaner/degreaser (Zep, I think?)! AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR!! I made the mistake of using it with bare hands and had a terrible burning/tingling sensation for several hours afterwards... I actually considered going to the ER, but holding my hands and arms in cool water in the sink got rid of the pain. Anyhow, when all was said and done I had some red blisters, but no peeling flesh.. haha.. Made for a mighty clean surface, though!
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:10 PM   #28
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It's worth noting that there are different products for different purposes, and each has its place in paint prep. All-in-one products can do a lot in one go (I mentally count TSP in this category) but you can do without them if you follow the right order:

* Rust first. Grind, sand, wire-wheel, whatever you do, do nothing else until the rust is addressed. I'm a POR fan, never tried Ospho, but the point is to use a product designed to create a chemical reaction with the rust that both neutralizes it and forms a surface layer to protect it.

* Metal prep. Most metals need some form of primer and if, in the course of whatever you did, you're down to bare metal, you need to prep it before painting it. Galvanized needs an etch, aluminum can be done with Alumiprep or similar (and maybe Alodyne or similar), steel just needs the right primer, etc. There are multi-surface primers that can handle them all which is nice if you have a mix of metals.

* Degreaser. VERY IMPORTANT. This is so easy I never understand why people skip the step. The tiniest drops of oil from fingerprints, old grime, a kid doing crayon-graffiti, or whatever can ruin a paint finish - even years later. It's so easy, too - acetone will take it right off.

You can use a tack cloth but I personally don't. If you degrease carefully enough there shouldn't be any dust left for a tack cloth to pick up.

I didn't really mean for this to sound like a lecture or guide - my real point is that if you're uncomfortable with (or can't get) TSP you can live without it. TSP doesn't help rust (well, unless it's in concrete), and although it's a great degreaser, there are plenty of other options. Acetone degrades quickly.
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:25 PM   #29
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Ospho etches galvanized metal.
Most galvanized steel, like in a bus, are safe to paint anyways. Some people "prep" galvanized by leaving out in the weather for a bit.
I spilled some ospho on the floor in the back of my bus and it etched very nicely.
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Ospho etches galvanized metal.
Most galvanized steel, like in a bus, are safe to paint anyways. Some people "prep" galvanized by leaving out in the weather for a bit.
I spilled some ospho on the floor in the back of my bus and it etched very nicely.
Yep. I'm fairly certain that the larger bottles of Ospho describe the process. It's about the same as Metal-Etch: spray down the galvanized metal; let soak for 30 minutes or however long (you can keep it on until it dries, but it may leave a powdery substance. No big deal); rinse thoroughly. Lightly brush off any white powder once it's fully dry and you're ready for the next step.

I've successfully done this many times.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:42 AM   #31
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since this is about paint prep, what is a great product for removing road tar from fenders?
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:10 AM   #32
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I've used kerosene with rags and stiff-bristled brushes to remove the rubber/tar undercoating from my bus (well, partially.. still in the works). It's been working well, but it's a very messy process.
While the kerosene/tar slop is wet on the metal you can easily use a strong soap/degreaser to finish the job.
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:13 AM   #33
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Also sort of on topic: Does anyone have a recommendation for a pair of cheap painters overalls that will stand up to Por15? All the ones I've come across seem porous and since Por15 is an extremely thin liquid I would expect it to pass right through..
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:02 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Also sort of on topic: Does anyone have a recommendation for a pair of cheap painters overalls that will stand up to Por15? All the ones I've come across seem porous and since Por15 is an extremely thin liquid I would expect it to pass right through..
Tyvek coveralls?

https://www.google.ca/search?q=tyvec...yvek+coveralls

Nat
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:39 PM   #35
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since this is about paint prep, what is a great product for removing road tar from fenders?
Wellworth "Super-sol" , wax, tar and adhesive remover. Made in USA, Soak a rag, with rubber gloves and work the area a bit. Use a stiff rubber scraper like a bondo applicator so the paint doesn't get scratched/damaged. Evaporates and paint friendly, I use it on high end big rigs. Some how the company I do work for gets it here without French labeling, and microscopic lettering for the warnings. Smell is brutal....
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Old 03-28-2015, 05:59 AM   #36
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thanks for replys guys!
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:09 PM   #37
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I have nearly the exact same bus as you. What I have learned on this site is to paint the roof white with elastomeric paint. I bought some today, $71 for 5 gal at Home Depot. It is in the roofing department. It is branded 770. Apply it with brush or roller. 5 gal should be more than enough to do everything above the windows a couple of times and maybe more. This paint is a water sealer and will keep the interior cooler while out in the sun. There are more expensive products, but there is the question of diminishing returns on your investment. Some of these products can be sprayed, but I could not see that this product was sprayable. The next step up was 780, but they didn't carry it. Had to order that online.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:44 PM   #38
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I found out by accident that Duplicolor Paint Prep kicks butt at removing tar. It's avail at just about ant auto parts store in spray or liquid. The liquid is a much better deal price-wise.

Used it to remove the "asphalteum" used on much of the war years vehicles.
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:23 PM   #39
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Exterior enamel paint question

Hey everybody! I was originally going to use a tractor paint or a rustoleum enamel paint, but I found this stuff and I love the color options. What do you think about using this paint for the exterior... Shermin Williams all surface enamel oil base paint? I love the fact that it comes in a ton of colors and has a high gloss finish. Thoughts? Suggestions? Shermin Williams's is having a sale on all paints and supplies until the 29th FYI coupon on their website. Thanks!!!

Link to paint:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...search-results
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:25 PM   #40
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If it really is oil based you should be able to add a hardener to it and make it last much longer.
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