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03-25-2015, 05:17 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Did you strip the interior of your bus?
If you did, You may now be trying to paint galvanized steel.
Por 15's metal ready chemicly etches galvanized steel nicely.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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03-25-2015, 10:13 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I think something like 300-400 should be ok, but just try some.
I'm going with the same paint. I've been impressed already with some I've rolled on. Just primer so far. Won't be painting for at least a couple months.
if its galvanized or bare use some Ospho.
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03-25-2015, 10:55 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Gainesville. Georgia
Posts: 544
Year: 1992
Coachwork: bluebird
Rated Cap: 72
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TSP by the way is an abbreviation for Trisodium Phosphate. It was taken off the market for quite a while due to the Phosphate content.....I only used TSP for cleaning inside my home and outside cleaning for years.
When it was taken off the market I hunted and stockpiled what I could find.
The Company replaced it with TS no P and it sucked big time. Next thing I know it was back...don't know the back story but I was very happy to see it.
Through all of this I ran across a product off of one of the shopping channels called PROFESSOR AMOS SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME. I have found that this product works as well as TSP and is a natural cleaner and doesn't release phosphates into the water ways.
I now use this product instead of TSP. I've never used rubber gloves as instructed on the label for TSP. My hands did get a weird feeling after using but I didn't notice any other problems with it. The SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME just feels like I am using scented water.
Both, from my experience are an excellent degreaser and cleaner and I chose the SHOCK IT just because it appears to be less harmful to the environment and can be used for EVERYTHING.
It all depends on you, I have cleaned many, many walls with TSP prior to painting and have never had a problem. I tried TSP in cleaning the bus ceiling and walls prior to painting and it did not appear to work at all as far as a change to the way they looked. Is was at this time that I got my first bottle of SHOCK IT and the ceiling and walls came completely clean of years of use.
That is what sold me and I no longer have or use TSP in my house or bus.
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03-26-2015, 06:48 AM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Breeze
TSP by the way is an abbreviation for Trisodium Phosphate. It was taken off the market for quite a while due to the Phosphate content...
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Friends and I used to fish in the creeks that ran out of the phosphate mines in south central FL. Yes, we ate the bass that we caught. That land was used for raising cattle so plenty of people ate the beef from there. I wondered why we don't have the pep in our step or the glow in our cheeks that we did back then.
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03-26-2015, 11:26 AM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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'cause now you're old----
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03-26-2015, 01:39 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
If its galvanized or bare use some Ospho.
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I like Oshpo better for killing rust than POR 15's metal ready.
However, I'm not sure Oshpo is listed as a chemical etch for galvanized steel?
The metal ready worked great for etching the galvanized I sheeted my bus with last fall. I used a weed sprayer and misted it on. A cool day is better, as the heat and sun will cause it to dry before the chemical has a chance to work.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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03-26-2015, 09:32 PM
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#27
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Breeze
...I now use this product instead of TSP. I've never used rubber gloves as instructed on the label for TSP. My hands did get a weird feeling after using but I didn't notice any other problems with it. The SHOCK IT CLEAN EXTREME just feels like I am using scented water.
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I bought some powder TSP, which is to be mixed with an appropriate amount of warm water.. It works, but if you're seriously trying to do some degreasing for cheap buy the purple industrial cleaner/degreaser (Zep, I think?)! AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR!! I made the mistake of using it with bare hands and had a terrible burning/tingling sensation for several hours afterwards... I actually considered going to the ER, but holding my hands and arms in cool water in the sink got rid of the pain. Anyhow, when all was said and done I had some red blisters, but no peeling flesh.. haha.. Made for a mighty clean surface, though!
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03-26-2015, 10:10 PM
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#28
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 258
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It's worth noting that there are different products for different purposes, and each has its place in paint prep. All-in-one products can do a lot in one go (I mentally count TSP in this category) but you can do without them if you follow the right order:
* Rust first. Grind, sand, wire-wheel, whatever you do, do nothing else until the rust is addressed. I'm a POR fan, never tried Ospho, but the point is to use a product designed to create a chemical reaction with the rust that both neutralizes it and forms a surface layer to protect it.
* Metal prep. Most metals need some form of primer and if, in the course of whatever you did, you're down to bare metal, you need to prep it before painting it. Galvanized needs an etch, aluminum can be done with Alumiprep or similar (and maybe Alodyne or similar), steel just needs the right primer, etc. There are multi-surface primers that can handle them all which is nice if you have a mix of metals.
* Degreaser. VERY IMPORTANT. This is so easy I never understand why people skip the step. The tiniest drops of oil from fingerprints, old grime, a kid doing crayon-graffiti, or whatever can ruin a paint finish - even years later. It's so easy, too - acetone will take it right off.
You can use a tack cloth but I personally don't. If you degrease carefully enough there shouldn't be any dust left for a tack cloth to pick up.
I didn't really mean for this to sound like a lecture or guide - my real point is that if you're uncomfortable with (or can't get) TSP you can live without it. TSP doesn't help rust (well, unless it's in concrete), and although it's a great degreaser, there are plenty of other options. Acetone degrades quickly.
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03-26-2015, 10:25 PM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Ospho etches galvanized metal.
Most galvanized steel, like in a bus, are safe to paint anyways. Some people "prep" galvanized by leaving out in the weather for a bit.
I spilled some ospho on the floor in the back of my bus and it etched very nicely.
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03-26-2015, 10:30 PM
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#30
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Ospho etches galvanized metal.
Most galvanized steel, like in a bus, are safe to paint anyways. Some people "prep" galvanized by leaving out in the weather for a bit.
I spilled some ospho on the floor in the back of my bus and it etched very nicely.
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Yep. I'm fairly certain that the larger bottles of Ospho describe the process. It's about the same as Metal-Etch: spray down the galvanized metal; let soak for 30 minutes or however long (you can keep it on until it dries, but it may leave a powdery substance. No big deal); rinse thoroughly. Lightly brush off any white powder once it's fully dry and you're ready for the next step.
I've successfully done this many times.
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03-27-2015, 05:42 AM
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#31
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
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since this is about paint prep, what is a great product for removing road tar from fenders?
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03-27-2015, 08:10 AM
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#32
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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I've used kerosene with rags and stiff-bristled brushes to remove the rubber/tar undercoating from my bus (well, partially.. still in the works). It's been working well, but it's a very messy process.
While the kerosene/tar slop is wet on the metal you can easily use a strong soap/degreaser to finish the job.
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03-27-2015, 08:13 AM
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#33
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Also sort of on topic: Does anyone have a recommendation for a pair of cheap painters overalls that will stand up to Por15? All the ones I've come across seem porous and since Por15 is an extremely thin liquid I would expect it to pass right through..
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03-27-2015, 12:02 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Also sort of on topic: Does anyone have a recommendation for a pair of cheap painters overalls that will stand up to Por15? All the ones I've come across seem porous and since Por15 is an extremely thin liquid I would expect it to pass right through..
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Tyvek coveralls?
https://www.google.ca/search?q=tyvec...yvek+coveralls
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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03-27-2015, 02:39 PM
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#35
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal
since this is about paint prep, what is a great product for removing road tar from fenders?
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Wellworth "Super-sol" , wax, tar and adhesive remover. Made in USA, Soak a rag, with rubber gloves and work the area a bit. Use a stiff rubber scraper like a bondo applicator so the paint doesn't get scratched/damaged. Evaporates and paint friendly, I use it on high end big rigs. Some how the company I do work for gets it here without French labeling, and microscopic lettering for the warnings. Smell is brutal....
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03-28-2015, 04:59 AM
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#36
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
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thanks for replys guys!
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04-20-2015, 06:09 PM
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#37
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 23
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: E350
Engine: Ford 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 16
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I have nearly the exact same bus as you. What I have learned on this site is to paint the roof white with elastomeric paint. I bought some today, $71 for 5 gal at Home Depot. It is in the roofing department. It is branded 770. Apply it with brush or roller. 5 gal should be more than enough to do everything above the windows a couple of times and maybe more. This paint is a water sealer and will keep the interior cooler while out in the sun. There are more expensive products, but there is the question of diminishing returns on your investment. Some of these products can be sprayed, but I could not see that this product was sprayable. The next step up was 780, but they didn't carry it. Had to order that online.
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04-20-2015, 08:44 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I found out by accident that Duplicolor Paint Prep kicks butt at removing tar. It's avail at just about ant auto parts store in spray or liquid. The liquid is a much better deal price-wise.
Used it to remove the "asphalteum" used on much of the war years vehicles.
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02-25-2016, 05:23 PM
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#39
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 9
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Exterior enamel paint question
Hey everybody! I was originally going to use a tractor paint or a rustoleum enamel paint, but I found this stuff and I love the color options. What do you think about using this paint for the exterior... Shermin Williams all surface enamel oil base paint? I love the fact that it comes in a ton of colors and has a high gloss finish. Thoughts? Suggestions? Shermin Williams's is having a sale on all paints and supplies until the 29th FYI coupon on their website. Thanks!!!
Link to paint:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...search-results
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02-25-2016, 05:25 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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If it really is oil based you should be able to add a hardener to it and make it last much longer.
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