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Old 06-29-2022, 12:46 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 13
Power System

Hello all,
I plan to buy a short bus in the near future. My question is who can I find to install the power system in the bus? And help with other things during the conversion.

I definitely cannot do it my self and I don't know anyone who can. I am located in MD. I just want to be sure I can have a shop or some other skilled person to Install before I purchase a bus. Thanks

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Old 06-29-2022, 08:43 AM   #2
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DIY or Broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adb2 View Post
Hello all,
I plan to buy a short bus in the near future. My question is who can I find to install the power system in the bus? And help with other things during the conversion.

I definitely cannot do it my self and I don't know anyone who can. I am located in MD. I just want to be sure I can have a shop or some other skilled person to Install before I purchase a bus. Thanks
Harford Custom Coach Works is in MD.

Most of us design & build our own conversions. The hourly rate for professional Electricians is $100-$200, depending on location & scope of work. The material, is relatively cheap.

I am an Electrician. My ceiling Electrical rough-in cost about $500 in material & consumed 16hrs of labor. Skim through my tutorial, maybe you can do it.

Ceiling: Framing & Electrical Rough-in


I expect to spend 60 hours (or more) completing the 120v AC system. The DC installation will require much more time (100hrs?) and cost approximately $2k (ha, or more) in material, alone.

Commissioning others to build your dream is absolutely possible. It's all just a matter of money.

Fast, cheap, good. Pick two.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:01 AM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
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Year: 1999
Chassis: International Genesis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adb2 View Post
Hello all,
I plan to buy a short bus in the near future. My question is who can I find to install the power system in the bus? And help with other things during the conversion.

I definitely cannot do it my self and I don't know anyone who can. I am located in MD. I just want to be sure I can have a shop or some other skilled person to Install before I purchase a bus. Thanks

DeMac is one of the best out there and his tutorials are really good, as is any advice you get from him. If you take the time to FIRST really learn and educate yourself, you might be surprised at what you can do. Honestly, I think it's better to walk into it *realizing* you don't know and that you need to learn, rather than a lot of guys who go in assuming it isn't that hard and that they can figure it out. It's definitely a lot more complicated that just changing out the dining room light in your house.

That said, there are some small companies that sell the electrical stuff as a kit, then you just wire up your little devices. That takes a lot of the guess work out of the scariest part it and might be a good compromise. This guy is in Pennsylvannia somewhere and sells power kits for vans but you could for sure use it for a bus. https://www.appalachianvans.com/
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Old 06-29-2022, 05:45 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thank you both so much for your help!
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Old 07-13-2022, 07:26 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Pensacola
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Engine: DT466
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My wife and I have our Bachelor’s degree in Music Performance. They don’t teach you how to build or wire a dang thing except how to build chords or scales lol. We completed our Skoolie in 1 1/2 years as avid students of YouTube and scowlers of Skoolie.net (thanks everyone!).

As for the electrical side I took on that portion of our project as far as research, education and completing the job with labor help from my wife when I needed an extra set of hands. While I was doing this my wife was becoming a low-key master plumber and tiler (thanks again YouTube and Propex Plumbing).

Our 120v/AC wiring took probably took 20 hours for rough-in as DeMac noted and maybe a cumulative 35-40 hours for getting the outlets installed and secured to the wall. However, completing our 12v system was much shorter in time and in costs than DeMac noted. Working with 12v wires is just easier because the wires are not as large or rigid to manipulate. Furthermore there is only 2 sets of wires for wiring DC appliances compared to 3-4 for wiring AC appliances. I believe DeMac may be completing/referencing a 12v system that includes solar power and the setup that entails?

We do not have a solar panel setup for our conversion, just a combined 12v and 120v (AC/DC) setup. Our 12v(DC) wiring cost was way less than the materials needed for the 120v(AC). Our 12v(DC) system powers our interior lights, MaxAir Fan, Instant Hot Water Heater, Water Pump, Exhaust Fan on AirHead Composting Toilet, and an Exhaust Fan for the cats litter box.

If DeMac is including the cost of a solar setup then price could easily reach into a couple of thousand dollars after the price of the panels and the batteries alone.


Check out our bus on Instagram @PhoebusTheBus for pictures
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Old 07-13-2022, 08:34 PM   #6
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Fast, Good, Cheap.....

.
.
Doesn't matter how long it takes,
as long as it's perfect.
. - DeMac
.
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Old 07-14-2022, 08:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
.
.
Doesn't matter how long it takes,
as long as it's perfect.
. - DeMac
.
Yes sir, everybody’s needs are different, with electrical just got to make sure it’s 110% safe. Never witnessed an electrical fire, but I’ve heard it’s one of the most detrimental.
Thanks for the thanks DeMac
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Old 07-14-2022, 09:32 AM   #8
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by rydawg3000 View Post
We do not have a solar panel setup for our conversion, just a combined 12v and 120v (AC/DC) setup. Our 12v(DC) wiring cost was way less than the materials needed for the 120v(AC). Our 12v(DC) system powers our interior lights, MaxAir Fan, Instant Hot Water Heater, Water Pump, Exhaust Fan on AirHead Composting Toilet, and an Exhaust Fan for the cats litter box.
You're going to want probably at least two batteries for your 'household' 12V RV stuff. In particular, the hot water heater is an especially high-draw system, so I would also suggest adding some kind of an electrical system crossover, such as a (smart) battery isolator to protect your starting abilities if you ever run them down.
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Old 07-14-2022, 06:30 PM   #9
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We are knowingly living without solar or battery power to store our energy, just rocking shore power, it meets our needs

Our 12v power is produced from an inverter connected to our 120v system :biggrin
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Old 07-14-2022, 06:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delos356 View Post
Honestly, I think it's better to walk into it *realizing* you don't know and that you need to learn, rather than a lot of guys who go in assuming it isn't that hard and that they can figure it out. It's definitely a lot more complicated that just changing out the dining room light in your house.
This is everything!
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Old 07-18-2022, 12:44 AM   #11
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by rydawg3000 View Post

If DeMac is including the cost of a solar setup then price could easily reach into a couple of thousand dollars after the price of the panels and the batteries alone.
I'm in around $4500 with batteries, 1200w of panels,
BMS's and charge controllers. 400Ah @24v. I'm not done yet.
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Old 07-18-2022, 05:36 AM   #12
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Just remember that not all codes and best practices for residential electric translate to an RV. E.g. stranded vs solid copper wiring. Goes for either a diy job or if you hire a residential electrician
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Old 07-18-2022, 08:43 AM   #13
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Residential? The NEC Appies ALL Electrical Installations, Internationally Recognized

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4 View Post
Just remember that not all codes and best practices for residential electric translate to an RV. E.g. stranded vs solid copper wiring. Goes for either a diy job or if you hire a residential electrician
Remember.....
Remember what?
You didn't provide any new info or remind us of any facts.

Let's let everyone know why electricity flows on one wire type, better than the other. (Everywhere in Earth, vehicles are no exception.)

AC current flows across the surface of the wire's diameter. Only the core contains the resistance.

DC current flows homogenously across each of the stranded wire's diameters.

One wire type does not fit both applications.

DC - Stranded
AC - Solid

Read about Skin Effect, Proximity Effect & Lorentz Force, here:
The difference between AC and DC resistance of a conductor

Do the math. Then testify as to what you witnessed.

Rac=Rdc[1+αs+αp]

Rac = The ac resistance of the conductor
Rdc = The dc resistance of the conductor
αs,αp = Skin effect and Proximity effect factor

Being inside of a vehicle is not relevant, other than vehicles have DC batteries instead of 300 mile AC extension cords.

Quality brake & fuel lines are solid, hollow even. A mechanical DT vibrates more than the entire vehicle. Lots of solid (hollow) Copper lines, vibrating with the same frequency as the motor. All of my stranded plug wires vibrate to a different pattern & I replace them every two years.
(Anecdotal evidence sucks, right)
Math, Science, Fact
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