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Old 02-02-2021, 07:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ISAF2009 View Post
I would try and shoehorn a 8v92 in it though.
With 64k miles and 3400 hours I'm sure this 3126 has PLENTY of life left in it. Just did all the fluids/filters this year. And a new W/P belt.

this things as close to a "new" 1999 bus as I could hope to find. I think they either used it as a trainer or a backup bus or something. Real low use for sure.

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Old 02-02-2021, 07:43 PM   #22
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This is the kind of day were having here...
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Old 02-02-2021, 07:49 PM   #23
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I would try and shoehorn a 8v92 in it though. Not a big inline 6 fan. They make more torque down low theoretically but there is a reason why v-8ís are winning the torque wars right now. We did put an eaton m800 on a ford 300 and get almost 12v cummins torque a few years back though.
I like the 6-71, and it really is not that much bigger then a DT466. So fitting it in will be reasonable. I do have several of them in other applications.
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:31 PM   #24
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Yup my boat has a 6-71
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Old 02-03-2021, 04:24 AM   #25
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I more or less have my "ultimate" shorty. 5 window thomas with low miles, hi headroom, air ride, full size tires, and a straight six diesel.

Dammit Charlie stop rubbing our nose in it
That is one sweet looking little bus! I think that would make an excellent daily driver.
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Old 02-07-2021, 03:34 PM   #26
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My opinion, for a cutaway van style bus go with gas, Triton v10 or the gm 6.0.
Keep the weight down for your build, use modular components if you can and if building from scratch think panel veneers and trims like a factory camper instead of large amounts of 2x4's. Plan your end use and don't over tank it for your water and waste. If you can reprovision every few days why pack an 80 gallon water tank.
Just my thoughts
Good luck in your search and stay safe.

Oscar
Can you expand on what you mean by “think panel veneers instead of large amounts of 2x4s?” Just wanna make sure I understand .

This is the exact bus we have (6L Chevy/gm) and def want to keep our options open for mountain driving. We’re not even doing a water system (not built in, maybe a foot pump sink) but my understanding is whenever you completely demo a bus you need to put a fair amount of 2x4s in for the framing.

Do you mean don’t use 2x4s for like an entire ceiling and/or wall? (But obv still use them for the framing)
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Old 02-07-2021, 04:41 PM   #27
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Can you expand on what you mean by ďthink panel veneers instead of large amounts of 2x4s?Ē Just wanna make sure I understand .

This is the exact bus we have (6L Chevy/gm) and def want to keep our options open for mountain driving. Weíre not even doing a water system (not built in, maybe a foot pump sink) but my understanding is whenever you completely demo a bus you need to put a fair amount of 2x4s in for the framing.

Do you mean donít use 2x4s for like an entire ceiling and/or wall? (But obv still use them for the framing)
If you have chance to look inside any factory built rv you'll see that the walls and bulkheads are just thin panelling with 1"x2" framing or some are even 1"X1" framing, these are glued and stapled together. These are light weight but also cost reducing for the manufactures. Look at a conventional wall in a house, 2x4 thickness plus 1/2" drywall on both sides and you have a wall that is taking 4.5" of your usable space for every wall you build. Instead of 2x4 consider 2x3 wall studs and 2x2 for plates and frame on the flat, you get the strength without giving up that extra few inches.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:29 PM   #28
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... that is taking 4.5" of your usable space for every wall you build. Instead of 2x4 consider 2x3 wall studs and 2x2 for plates and frame on the flat, you get the strength without giving up that extra few inches.
Hear, hear!

Check out the 8th post from the top on this Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers ‚ÄĘ View topic - Another way to skin a cat.

The walls are made out of 3/8" Plywood and 5mm Lauan. the wall is only 1.14" thick. The side/way 2x4 at the door frame gives it all the needed strength.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:48 PM   #29
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Just for fun I will add that having no walls at all also reduces the amount of usable space taken up by walls.
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Old 02-07-2021, 08:06 PM   #30
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Just for fun I will add that having no walls at all also reduces the amount of usable space taken up by walls.

Didn't we say the same thing about Bras back in the days?
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Old 02-07-2021, 08:11 PM   #31
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The body of a school bus is quite strong, building out the walls or ceiling is not needed for any purpose other then to add more insulation for really cold climates. I attached the plywood right to the ribs on my walls, and put a finish layer of paneling on that. The ceiling is still the original metal ceiling, with the original insulation.



Interior walls can be 3/4" plywood, a good finish grade that could be painted or stained. I used wide ceder boards 3/4" thick, and varnished them.
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:10 PM   #32
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Thanks, Ronnie! This helps.

I know everyone has diff opinions here, but I'd love to crowd-source those opinions. If you could buy any short-bus, which would it be and why? Really appreciate the help - this is my biggest mental block so far!
Iím not an expert on short buses but Iíd base my decision on the engine; in the diesel market you must avoid a Ford 6.0 and 6.4 as the first could bankrupt you if you donít know what youíre getting into (I owned 2) and the 6.4 isnít much better. If you find a Ford 7.3 I would likely take it in a heartbeat as theyíre very reliable engines but they stopped production in 2003 model year.

This thread is the first Iíve heard bad things about the Ford V10 gas engine. I had one in my old 36 foot class A motorhome and I liked it. Iíve always heard it is a reliable engine. Thing I didnít like is it didnít have the power till way up in the higher rpm range and it really screams when it gets up there. Benefit of gas is theyíre tried and true and cheaper to fix.

The major benefits of the cutaway style is serviceability; cheaper and much more availability of mechanic shops.

I donít have enough experience with the Chevy to offer an opinion on them but I would try them out. From my experience though if I were looking for a shorty Iíd go cutaway with power stroke 7.3 or the V10 gasser - I think both would be a good choice.
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Old 02-08-2021, 06:43 PM   #33
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Oil splaper on the rear bumper and leaks

My husband and I purchased a bus from Texas and we drove it home to Utah with no problems at all. Upon our arrival we noticed there was oil splatter in the rear its very small but significant regardless. We took it to a diesel shop and the mechanic said we may need to rebuild the engine. I'm wondering though if that is the case being that the bus drove me from Texas to utah with no problems at all. I want to know if I should get a second opinion??? Thank you in advanced
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Old 02-08-2021, 07:08 PM   #34
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My husband and I purchased a bus from Texas and we drove it home to Utah with no problems at all. Upon our arrival we noticed there was oil splatter in the rear its very small but significant regardless. We took it to a diesel shop and the mechanic said we may need to rebuild the engine. I'm wondering though if that is the case being that the bus drove me from Texas to utah with no problems at all. I want to know if I should get a second opinion??? Thank you in advanced
You may want to start a new thread for this. Might get more response.

Yes I would get a second opinion, as well as an explanation as to why he says it needs a rebuild.
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Old 02-08-2021, 07:37 PM   #35
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You may want to start a new thread for this. Might get more response.

Agree.

Listen to Ronnie.
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