Redo - E450 Suspension Lift

[Goatherder]

So I did this post once already, then rearranged my photobucket acct and all the pictures got negated. But I think it's good info, and it seems to be working out OK long term...so I'll redo the post so it makes sense. Onward...

Recently bought a 2004 6-window E-450 based Collins. This thing sat really low, especially in the front... apparently to allow easy entrance for passengers and such. My mission is to turn this bus into a back-road capable expedition/camping rig, so I need to get it up out of the dirt. I plan to install 32" A/T tires, so a small suspension lift is in order.

I went looking for components to make this happen, and found almost nothing available specifically for E-450. So I bought what I thought I could adapt and made the rest.

On the front I started with a leveling kit made for 2WD F350: FORD F250 F350 SUPER DUTY 2WD 2" LEVELING LIFT KIT- FB2 HC



To adapt this kit to the bus required purchase of a pair of 20mm x 200mm grade 8 bolts (course thread),4 washers, and a pair of 18mm locking nuts. I Also needed a 20mm x 2.5 tap...which I just happened to have laying around.

This big 20mm bolt replaces the factory bolt that fastens the longitudinal radius arm to the I-beam axle. It goes in from the bottom and the factory 20mm nut goes on top. The stud extenders screw down on top of that nut, then the aluminum spacers sit down over the stud extenders. A washer & 18mm nut on top of the stud extenders fasten the spacers down. Stud extender thread is 18mm, so I had to run a 20mm tap down the internal threads to hog it out to 20mm. Thread pitch is the same for 18 & 20, so it worked just fine.

This leveling kit is advertised as 2" lift, but I gained at least 3". Wheel alignment will now be necessary to correct camber. Factory shocks seem long enough to accommodate this lift

[Goatherder]

For the rear I wanted about 2". I found a fabricated lift block that cost $150 + shipping. So for about $20 I made my own. It came out to about 2.25".

I bought a pair 1.5" slices of 3"x 6" x .250 wall box tubing from a local welding shop, and a pair of 5/8 x 3" bolts. Two pieces of 3/8 x 3" flat bar cut at 6", and another two cut at 9.5".

Bored 5/8" holes in the centers of all four flat pieces, then slid the 5/8 bolts into the 6" pieces and welded the bolt heads down. These bolts will get sliced off so they only stick out about 1/2" on the bottom side of the block, and form the pin to locate the bottom of the block on the axle housing. Next I set the box section on top of this bottom plate and welded around the inside perimeter. Then I flipped this assembly over on top of the 9.5" top plate, centered it up so the holes were aligned, and welded the perimeter.

Completed block (upside down). Note the locating pin: in this pic the pin is too long; I had to cut it down to about 1/2"

[Goatherder]

Before & After

[Goatherder]

Re: post-lift alignment:

This lift causes positive camber and loss of caster. The camber was corrected with adjustable bushings, and the caster ended up right at the limit. It drives OK, but needs more caster to make it drive better, as it feels a bit twitchy at times and sometimes likes to wander. I need to fabricate some drop brackets for the aft end of the radius arms to restore the proper amount of caster. This will make the truck track better. I have the steel and its on the list...

[Rusty]

Thanks for sharing the details of your lift. Rig looks much more respectable now.

I have an older e450 ambulance that is registered as a motorhome and this might be what it needs....

[cadillackid]

wow love the new stance!! amazing what 2 inches will do to the look.
-Christopher

[Goatherder]

Hmm. Well, that was before the tires. I meant to include a pic or two of the truck with the tires. 32", 265/75-16

[79cvx20]

I have a 2019 E450 motorhome chassis that I have the same problem with. It is about 3 inches low in the front. I made spacers out of pipe and round plates and used 20 mm x bolts 250 mm bolts. It wound up perfectly level from one end to the other but I can't get a 3.50 deg. camber sleeve installed. It bumps against the axle before I get it all the way in. Please see attached. With the factory sleeves I took out it has four degrees positive camber. Of course, I'm trying to get it back closer to 0 or ¼ deg. Positive. It looks like I might have to get dropped radius arm brackets and dropped axle pivot point brackets. I used to do this on E 350s down to 150s everyday and never ran into this problem. I have to take it to a welder Monday so I'm having to put it back to original to be able to drive it.

Can you give me a complete list of all the parts that you used?