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Old 12-18-2017, 02:53 PM   #441
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Nice. Congrats on the unicorn.
Thank you

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Old 12-18-2017, 02:58 PM   #442
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I think i'll start by pulling off the alternator so I can get a better view of the source of the leak. If its leaking BEHIND the INNER timing cover I'll probably go get a shop estimate. I really hope it doesn't come to that.

Oh- and you really should change your screen name to Debbiejay8.3!
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:03 PM   #443
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I think i'll start by pulling off the alternator so I can get a better view of the source of the leak. If its leaking BEHIND the INNER timing cover I'll probably go get a shop estimate. I really hope it doesn't come to that.

Oh- and you really should change your screen name to Debbiejay8.3!
Hmm...flaunt it a little? Haha!

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Old 12-18-2017, 03:04 PM   #444
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I don't think I'll be refilling with this blue bs coolant again.
Gona go with some yellow stuff from Shell that the DT guys all say is the good stuff to run.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:12 PM   #445
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so the blow-by gasses are fine? no leaks into the crankcase?

ill bet you can do that front cover.. pull the bonnet off. get an engine hoist and yank that whole rad / CAC assembly as a unit then you can stand right there and get at it.. when I did front work n redbyrd i was able to stad right at the engine and that makes a huge difference.. you are looking at it from the side thinkings its rough... the hardest part is taking care to re-align the gears correctly when you put it back together.

only reason you would have to pull the head would be if you have to pull the cam.. but from what it seems you can leave the cam in, I didt look to see if the thrust plat has to come off ... if it does just care not to slide the cam forward and drop lifters..
-Christopher
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:22 PM   #446
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so the blow-by gasses are fine? no leaks into the crankcase?

ill bet you can do that front cover.. pull the bonnet off. get an engine hoist and yank that whole rad / CAC assembly as a unit then you can stand right there and get at it.. when I did front work n redbyrd i was able to stad right at the engine and that makes a huge difference.. you are looking at it from the side thinkings its rough... the hardest part is taking care to re-align the gears correctly when you put it back together.

only reason you would have to pull the head would be if you have to pull the cam.. but from what it seems you can leave the cam in, I didt look to see if the thrust plat has to come off ... if it does just care not to slide the cam forward and drop lifters..
-Christopher
I think I could do the outer cover. Its the inner one I'm not so sure about.
I don't think the head has to come off for either.
Just a regular engine hoist? will it reach?
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:38 PM   #447
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NO definitely NOT the head gasket.
as stated- zero signs of any contamination in the oil or coolant. NO smoke, runs like a beast.
Its trickling right where the inlet and outlet for water are at the block/front cover junction.
Why is a new head gasket in my future???
That rusty spot looks like its been there for many years. I spent HOURS staring at every part of this bus, especially the engine. There was NEVER any sign of coolant on any part of the engine till this leak started pissing out right when I was looking at it the other day. When I got the bus it had just done 20 hours on the interstate and the entire engine was dry, no coolant and only MINOR oil here and there that would be expected.

Coolant pressure and compression are definitely on the "to-test" list. But I don't have the stuff to do either.
Well it was hard to tell from the video.

Good news that it's not the head gasket.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:54 PM   #448
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So here's where my leak is coming from-
great pic CB. I notice there aren't many bolts in that area for tightening the cover. Have you tried tightening them up a squeeze with some gasket maker on the joint? Might be a temporary fix but I would try and tighten all the cover bolts to the specified torque. Not knowing what that is, I assume there must be an online pdf doc for maintenance. Good luck bro,
just one of the downfalls of aluminum parts I think but a temp fix might get you a long ways. And good to hear some if not all electrical issues addressed.

John
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:59 PM   #449
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great pic CB. I notice there aren't many bolts in that area for tightening the cover. Have you tried tightening them up a squeeze with some gasket maker on the joint? Might be a temporary fix but I would try and tighten all the cover bolts to the specified torque. Not knowing what that is, I assume there must be an online pdf doc for maintenance. Good luck bro,
just one of the downfalls of aluminum parts I think but a temp fix might get you a long ways. And good to hear some if not all electrical issues addressed.

John
There's no access to do that on this part of the engine. MAYBE when I take off the alternator I'll get a better view. But its up in a crevice.
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Old 12-18-2017, 04:10 PM   #450
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Sure thing, nothing is easy. hard on the hands in there too, take care.

John
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Old 12-18-2017, 04:38 PM   #451
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and- just got word one of my front tires has a nail in it.
Just wonderful.

What a can of worms, I think I'm officially getting bummed out now.
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Old 12-18-2017, 04:50 PM   #452
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yeah usually short cycling compressors are low freon, on mine the compressors and condensor fans follow each other even in normal operation.

who made those units? are they any of the major brands (carrier, red dot, trans/air, TK)?

where is the video, i was looking for a link to it? for the water leak?
-Christopher


No idea about the ac.
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Old 12-18-2017, 04:51 PM   #453
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so the blow-by gasses are fine? no leaks into the crankcase?

ill bet you can do that front cover.. pull the bonnet off. get an engine hoist and yank that whole rad / CAC assembly as a unit then you can stand right there and get at it.. when I did front work n redbyrd i was able to stad right at the engine and that makes a huge difference.. you are looking at it from the side thinkings its rough... the hardest part is taking care to re-align the gears correctly when you put it back together.

only reason you would have to pull the head would be if you have to pull the cam.. but from what it seems you can leave the cam in, I didt look to see if the thrust plat has to come off ... if it does just care not to slide the cam forward and drop lifters..
-Christopher
I just did some checking. The rear cover is way harder. The cam has to come out.

Sent another email to the school. No response yet.
Would this be what I'd need to get in to the bus' computer and find out the hours?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEXIQ-12503...4AAOSwTM5Y4iAB
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:24 PM   #454
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I just did some checking. The rear cover is way harder. The cam has to come out.

Sent another email to the school. No response yet.
Would this be what I'd need to get in to the bus' computer and find out the hours?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEXIQ-12503...4AAOSwTM5Y4iAB
Yes that, and a laptop with the Navistar software which is a free download.

Some of the software included with that item might not work without a manufacturer log-in ... they may have cracked some of it, but the Navistar software is free in any case.
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:53 PM   #455
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sure looks like that tool would work.. its the version 1 of the USBlink which should be just fine.

for lifting the radiator and such off.. yeah you remove the bonnet.. its just cotter pins to the cables and 2 big pins at the bottom.. unplug the wires for the lights and 2 people lift it off its about 150 lbs or so.. then you have easy access to the rad assembly.. if yours is like mine the support easily unbolts at the bottom and then the cross-bars across the top just mark the threads where the back stop nut is or leave it on.. take those off.. pull the pipes.. and up and outa the way..

theres a video online of a guy doing it to change a fan clutch and water pump on his 4700.. i wish I had watched that before I took each piece out on redbyrd.. I did it the hard way...

yeah the rear cover looks like a &^%%^&.. ill have to look but I think the head has to come off to pluck the lifters out, but i may have it mistaken with another engine. if the lifters can pull from their bores without the head off then the cam isnt a huge deal.. but looks to me like to yank the lifters you have to pull the head..
someone else can correct me if im wrong.. i dont have my book in front of me.
-Christopher
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:24 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
sure looks like that tool would work.. its the version 1 of the USBlink which should be just fine.

for lifting the radiator and such off.. yeah you remove the bonnet.. its just cotter pins to the cables and 2 big pins at the bottom.. unplug the wires for the lights and 2 people lift it off its about 150 lbs or so.. then you have easy access to the rad assembly.. if yours is like mine the support easily unbolts at the bottom and then the cross-bars across the top just mark the threads where the back stop nut is or leave it on.. take those off.. pull the pipes.. and up and outa the way..

theres a video online of a guy doing it to change a fan clutch and water pump on his 4700.. i wish I had watched that before I took each piece out on redbyrd.. I did it the hard way...

yeah the rear cover looks like a &^%%^&.. ill have to look but I think the head has to come off to pluck the lifters out, but i may have it mistaken with another engine. if the lifters can pull from their bores without the head off then the cam isnt a huge deal.. but looks to me like to yank the lifters you have to pull the head..
someone else can correct me if im wrong.. i dont have my book in front of me.
-Christopher
I need a manual!

And an engine hoist. And tires.

Its gettin real!

If that rear cover is the culprit I'll probably just throw in the towel and take it to the diesel shop up the road. They work on a ton of these things.
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:06 PM   #457
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CB, a couple of old remedies for leaky rads, hoses and maybe even your issue. Before dumping antifreeze etc, maybe try these two things, one at a time though. It might stop that leak, won't harm it trying either.
Now don't laugh you guys but has anyone tried this but me?
2 egg whites and into the rad expansion tank. Run engine till you think they have circulated and been drawn into the system. Check the next day to see if any luck.
Also, black, ground pepper has been used the same way and finds its way to the leaks eventually. If the leaks are minor, you may be fine.
You might also add some water pump conditioner for a leak such as yours.
Or try all three in combination.
Just some thoughts before you get to work on her...worth a try. Can't make it any worse.
The wrong coolant will eat at the aluminum and do just what you have happening over time.
Does the bus have a spare tire? Leave the nail in if the tire is holding air till you figure that one out.

Good luck and keep rollinn thru this!

John
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:14 PM   #458
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I did the black pepper thing before years ago on a car and it worked.. no idea how long it lasted as i sold the car before it started to leak again.
I never liked the stop-leak stuff. as it seemed to goo up the radiator fin passages..
-Christopher
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:16 PM   #459
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I've tried various stop leak "solutions" before. If I were just gonna stick it on CL and dump it I'd be breaking out the eggs and pepper. Probably just eat those for breakfast tomorrow and look into getting it fixed proper.

But yeah, those fixes can work. At least long enough to sell something.

The nail in the tire isn't a huge deal. Its holding air. I'll probably just pull it out and hope for the best. These low profile tires suck, so I'm itching to get some 10R's or 11R's on this bus anyway.

The coolant is leaking enough that there's no jerry rigging it or getting around it. Its gotta be fixed.
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:18 PM   #460
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I honestly planned to probably spend ten grand on this bus when I bought it. I just didn't imagine I'd be hit with so much fail so quickly!
I'll stick it out with this bus, though, don't think I'll be getting rid of it for many years.
This bus and the van are all I need for wheels!
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