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Old 01-27-2018, 06:55 AM   #1101
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Cool...but automotive type for sure?

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That's what I'd do. Or if going cheap and easy rustoleum or a similar oil based enamel.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:39 AM   #1102
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That's what I'd do. Or if going cheap and easy rustoleum or a similar oil based enamel.
Sometimes cheap is really expensive

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Old 01-27-2018, 07:44 AM   #1103
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Sometimes cheap is really expensive

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What you mean?
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Old 01-27-2018, 08:27 AM   #1104
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We used Valspar and Rustoleum on the Sport Bus. I was happy with the results. Both colors we chose were flat, not glossy.
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Old 01-27-2018, 08:51 AM   #1105
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What you mean?
I bought cheap stuff...and end having to buy stuff to clean up the cheap stuff...

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Old 01-27-2018, 09:51 AM   #1106
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I used rustoleum and so far am happy with it. Mixed my own custom colors.


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Old 01-27-2018, 04:51 PM   #1107
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I bought cheap stuff...and end having to buy stuff to clean up the cheap stuff...

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Ah, I see!
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Old 01-27-2018, 04:52 PM   #1108
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I used rustoleum and so far am happy with it. Mixed my own custom colors.


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Stuff looks pretty good. Comparing it side by side with latex it looks REAL good!
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:22 PM   #1109
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Water based latex is maybe the worst thing to put on a Skoolie short of painting it with battery acid. To begin...it will never bond to the oil based paint that is on there. Next...water and metal = rust if you sand through anywhere. Fine for house interiors...horrible on any vehicle. Even the new gen, environmentally friendly factory applied, water based paint is crap. You can find brand new cars that just came off the carrier from Detroit that have rust popping through. I wouldn't even put it on fiberglass since it can't be sanded.

Someone applied water based latex to some parts of my '46 Chevy. They apparently sanded it down to bare metal to put it on and there is a layer of rust under it everywhere there was latex. Sand through the original, 72 year old, oil based Chevy paint and the metal is bright and clean underneath.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:11 PM   #1110
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I personally HATE both those options.
Either flat/semi-gloss Rustoleum or actual automotive grade paint are the only ways I do it.
elastomeric looks like crap and traps all sorts of dust. It flake off and has a rubbery surface feel to it. Tree branches will play hell on it.
Just seam seal up the roof and paint it.
Thats a bummer. I was going to paint the whole interior of the bus body with the rubbery diy bed liner after the rust removal and application of rust conv. /primer prior to insulation. Extra sound deadening was my reasoning.

One of my complaints with the class A we have is you can hear everything outside. I don’t need silence to go to sleep , I just know it can be done better so now that I’m the builder.....

Just have to insulate better.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:32 PM   #1111
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imguessing for the bus body that spray foam makes the bus very quiet from an outside noise perspective.. for the driver's cab. Dynamat , hushmat , etc are great rays to help reduce noise..

-Christopher
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:40 PM   #1112
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imguessing for the bus body that spray foam makes the bus very quiet from an outside noise perspective.. for the driver's cab. Dynamat , hushmat , etc are great rays to help reduce noise..

-Christopher
Automotive carpet?

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Old 01-27-2018, 07:42 PM   #1113
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Automotive carpet?

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automotive carpet over the top of Hushmat or dynamat works good.. esp if you use the good stuff.. I always matted the tub of hotrod projects. and then carpeted over.
-Christopher
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:58 PM   #1114
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You're absolutely right about how much noise the sprayfoam stops. It's night and day. I could easily hear people talking outside previously and pounding on the side of the bus was like beating a drum. Now pounding on the side of the bus is like hitting a wood beam with your hand.

I do think the bedliner would also seal and deaden the noise quite effectively. I wouldn't put the rubber coating on the exterior roof because it's to soft, but I have considered using bedliner on the roof if it had problems with leaking. I used seam sealer before painting and I didn't have any leaks to begin with. Personally I like the painted metal finish on the roof because it is relatively easy to clean compared to a bedliner surface.
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Old 01-27-2018, 08:50 PM   #1115
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CARPET is a bad word in our household. 5 dogs 2 cats and a slob that occasionally slops his coffee on the floor(Hint: not my wife) Every surface has to be easy to clean. Planning some sort of padded vinyl flooring on top of rigid foam insulation.

We donít operate a mobile zoo, if we have ALL of them on the bus at the same time there may be zombies coming or something, but we have no shortage of volunteers when itís time to go for a ride.
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Old 01-28-2018, 02:04 AM   #1116
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We'll be working on nice smooth concrete.

I guess I need to measure it and see if it will work.
CB, that thing gives you to clear 8'5" max at the bottom of the hook.
That makes it really tight to pull the rsd with that if ever.
You need more height too account for rigging slings or chains, in addition to the hydraulic lift cylinder.
And if with CAC pipes on the rad, hoses etc, it will not be a straight up pull.
It will twist, likely flop backwards.
Centre of gravity changes and therefore you have to be able to go higher. If you try that lift and it suddenly drops, you loose fingers if not expecting a change while lifting and you could damage the fins of the rad bad. Please don't do that.
Two tons is enough though, just get a higher lift point.
No matter the surface you work on, the bigger the caster, the better it will roll out of the way and drop onto the ground, trailer, just hang, or whatever.
You do want it to go in as easy as it came out too or easier, so maneuverability is huge.
Height and mobility is everything.

Not sure what that will weigh..guessing about 1200 max, if empty.

Size slings for that or greater. Hope they aren't frayed in any way also. That's when oops happens, when you least expect it.

John

Build your own hoist with what you got around or find stuff to make one cheap.
There are simple ideas that will lift that out of there for you, you should build something with the stuff you have around or can scrounge easy.

John
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:01 AM   #1117
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on my bus the radiator was about 50 lbs or so.. and the CAC about the same.. the core support id estimate at maybe 150? so id say since he has full rad and full CAC that he would have 500 MAX and thats beiing conservative..

it doesnt have to go up that high.. the bonnet comes off with 2 large pins and the 4 spring cable pins and unplug the wire harnesses.. 2 people can lift that bonnet easily and set it down.. now you just have to clear the bumper..

you can unbolt the fan shroud from the system or leave it on but it gets a bit tricky with the fan in there still doable though.. radiator hoses come off easy.. turbo pipes on mine ccame apart easy.

since you dont have the split radiator you may be able to disassemble each component... that weas the mistake i made wit hthe split radiator which made getting it back together real tough.. getting to the bolts was tough as it was obviously dropped in as a unit when my bus was built.. ive seen some vids of people doing front engione work and they pull the system out as a unit with a regular engine hoist or a bobcat.
-Christopher
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:09 AM   #1118
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Old 01-28-2018, 11:33 AM   #1119
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Earlier a gear swap was mentioned. I have a 5.29 ratio in my bus which is soon to be swapped (I don't have overdrive). Any takers? Axle is an N175 I believe.
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Old 01-28-2018, 01:16 PM   #1120
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Earlier a gear swap was mentioned. I have a 5.29 ratio in my bus which is soon to be swapped (I don't have overdrive). Any takers? Axle is an N175 I believe.
Is the rated cap in your signature the actual vehicle cap or is it how many you can carry now?
Interested if it will work for me but your cap. Is low for me?
Thanks.
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