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Old 05-28-2018, 03:50 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Aluminum in contact with steel will oxidize very rapidly and produce a white powder like what you are seeing. The two metals absolutely MUST be kept isolated/insulated from one another.
Thank you, did not know that.

So it seems like that green gunk was supposed to provide an offset to prevent physical contact?
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:59 PM   #22
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Takes some fairly serious insulation to prevent corrosion between steel & aluminum (also known as dissimilar metals effect or galvanic corrosion). Paint alone won't last long. Something like rubberized undercoating topped with some truck bed liner should do the job but it will take several, thick coats. And if they are screwed or bolted together, they will still react due to being electrically connected by the fasteners. Industrial grade adhesives are best for joining dissimilar metals but you have to also make sure the adhesive is totally non-conductive (some do contain metals).


Tricky, but it can be done.
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:13 PM   #23
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What about some of the self-sealing self-stick rubber membranes designed for the edges of shingled roofs? They're pretty thick, rubberized, and self-stick.

I've used it on some projects where I had pressure treated wood in contact with steel to keep the chemicals from eating the steel away.
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by nomadman View Post

That's great, link to it when its sketched up, would love to see it.

I need to find the login for one of the sites I can hotlink images to, but


https://photos.app.goo.gl/U7PWoFajZGnNmyE22


I'm shooting for a weekend camper for short trips, or a rig that will be comfortable for longer drives (4-6 hours or so.) My goal was the ability to seat 4, and sleep 3 (2 bunks + couch turns into a small bed.) Your build is interesting because I was starting to think a cutaway would be too short - but 12 feet will work just fine, and if I could find a 6-window, I might get 14 feet. The problem I'm having now is that the couch might not be the best seat to talk to the driver - there's no passenger/navigator seat - that's where the stairs are. If I did a pair of captains chairs where the couch is, that gives me 3 seats, but only 2 bunks. . . .

I'm in the very beginning stages of planning. I'm at the point where I've decided that this idea might be financially doable in the first place, so I'm working on some numbers and ideas to see how it works.

I'll start a thread on it sometime, cause I've seen a lot of ideas that I want to incorporate lately from various posts.
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:43 PM   #25
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Removed the rivets and took the panel up. (First ever skoolie with a bottom trap door anybody?)

Pics of before and after vacuuming the powder out of there.

Gameplan is to de rust that section the best I can, and get a replacement aluminum panel made to throw over the top. Only issue now is how to get the section of this panel out that is underlapped... really don't want to rip out ALL of the floor panels. I'm guessing I will have to de-rivet that section and then pull it out (unless there are better ideas?)
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:49 PM   #26
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Closed off the coolant loop. Will need to replace the fluid in the line and also figure out where to dispose of the coolant that leaked out into the bucket. (Open to ideas )
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:00 PM   #27
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It's a bit late, but this place should take the coolant AFAIK

Also thanks for the reminder on the tool library
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:21 AM   #28
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*cough* weed killer *cough*...


I'm curious why everyone leaves all the coolant lines and such in place when they delete the heaters.. Why not loop it at the engine and delete the potential leak of all that hose/line?
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:03 PM   #29
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dumb question.....why are you using aluminum sheets? Gavanized steel 18 guage sheets are readily available and not expensive......
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