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Old 12-16-2018, 08:37 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
with a tarp its a lot less pricey to get a new one if you somehow damage it
I know, right??!? I could literally replace a tarp 5-6 times for the cost of an awning.

Plus this silver one matches my stripes.

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Old 12-26-2018, 08:06 PM   #182
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I've been reading your build for awhile. Great job! I like the tarp for awning idea and how easy/cheap it would be to replace. I do have a question on your window awnings. You said you tried one out then ordered more? Can you give me some details on what they are? Do they help the normal leaky bus window syndrome?

Thanks
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:55 PM   #183
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I do have a question on your window awnings. You said you tried one out then ordered more? Can you give me some details on what they are? Do they help the normal leaky bus window syndrome?

Thanks
I ordered one to make sure I could mount it and seal it securely, then ordered the rest. I had a local Metal Warehouse bend them for me.....they were around $120 total for 6 pcs. Each awning is 6 ft long and bent from 3/32" cold-rolled.....a 5" 'leg', then a 120 degree bend, then another 10" leg -- the 5" 'leg' was fastened with 1" self-drillers, and I used 3/8" hollow rubber weatherstripping behind the top edge, which compressed to 1/8" when screwed down. Overlapped the sections about 4" and put a bolt through the overlaps for safety. The 5" leg sits flat just above the stock 'eyebrows' above the windows.

Very pleased with the results...been working in the bus several times while raining and windy, and nothing gets in. And they don't vibrate at speeds up to 62 mph.

I don't have leaky windows, but these would have to cure that, as long as the weatherstripping was tight....my bus eyebrows don't even get wet when it rains.

Hope this helps! And thank you for the kind words.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:19 AM   #184
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I'm going with an 8x8 or 10x10 easy-up square canopy. I know it's something to store, but the advantage I see to it over an awning is that you can get sides for it - mesh (to keep bugs out), or solid (to block the sun.) Get a straight-legged one, and it will fit right next to the bus, and if bad weather comes in, you can easily enough just drop the height down (un-telescope the legs) to keep it out of the higher wind, and keep your stuff under it mostly dry.

A good one is $250-ish, but I figure that's in the middle between the price of a tarp and a folding awning. It's also easily adding 40% covered space to a shortie.


Also, those steel awnings over the windows look great. Might borrow that idea when the time comes...
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:26 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking View Post
I know, right??!? I could literally replace a tarp 5-6 times for the cost of an awning.

Plus this silver one matches my stripes.

Did the same thing, just ran the tarp length wise. Attached some footman loops on the drivers side to tie the tarp to. I've got three 16x20' tarps, 2 camo and 1 green...to match the bus, right! Got some old tent poles if needed for the corners and everything folds up neatly under the bed.


...your project is coming along nicely.


Got any pics of your window awnings?
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:03 PM   #186
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Did the same thing, just ran the tarp length wise. Attached some footman loops on the drivers side to tie the tarp to. I've got three 16x20' tarps, 2 camo and 1 green...to match the bus, right! Got some old tent poles if needed for the corners and everything folds up neatly under the bed.


...your project is coming along nicely.


Got any pics of your window awnings?
Thanks guys!

I do have more pics, but they're in my PC, and it's in the shop getting a new motherboard and CPU. There are several awning pics on page 11 of this thread, if you want to take a gander. For reference, my side mirrors protrude 9" from the side of the bus, and the awnings stick out about 7 1/2".
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:33 PM   #187
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Got any pics of your window awnings?

Finally got my PC back.....here's a few close-up shots. In the 3rd pic (taken from below), you can see I mounted them right against the eyebrows.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:22 PM   #188
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Despite family gatherings, dinners, parties, and travel, managed to make some good progress over the last three weeks (5 day weekends rock!).

Finished my lower cabinets.....stud framing, plywood, then vinyl tile facing. Beadboard or painting would have been much less tedious, but i like the way these look. Still have to make 3 'double' doors and hang them, as well as putty, sand, and urethane all the woodwork.......I was steering for a rustic cabin feel and all the whitewood gives me that. The rearmost doors will open for a pass-thru to the rear emergency door.

My loveseat finished at 64"....I can stretch out on it, as long as I remain in the fetal position. The seats lift out for storage underneath, and the backs fold down for fishing rod and kayak oar storage.

The cabinet behind the driver's seat will be for my heater....it will mount to the inside of the cabinet door and swing out when in use, and be out of the way and hidden when not.

And picked up a piece of vinyl siding soffit......I'm going to see if it will mount on the roof-ribs without sagging. If so, there's my clean, white, and virtually weight-free ceiling.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:48 PM   #189
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Thanks for the close up pics of the window awnings!! The interior is looking great!!! Keep up the good work!!

I see you have your priorities right... " seats lift out for storage underneath, and the backs fold down for fishing rod and kayak oar storage"
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:45 AM   #190
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I see you have your priorities right... " seats lift out for storage underneath, and the backs fold down for fishing rod and kayak oar storage"


Not a whole lot that's more relaxing than sitting in a kayak with a line out, and a cold beer in hand.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:25 PM   #191
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Not a whole lot that's more relaxing than sitting in a kayak with a line out, and a cold beer in hand.
I agree with that! I traded my kayaks to my brother in law... I'm regretting that and getting the itch to buy a couple more...
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Old 01-08-2019, 03:46 PM   #192
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I did buy a half-pint of Rustoleum gloss black (black or white were all I've seen in stock anywhere) and did a sample with the roll and tip method.....really looks good, and that was without hardener or thinner. I'll definitely add those when I do the big job.

If I could find a half-pint of any color in metallic oil-base enamel, I'd roll and tip a sample of that also, but I can't find any anywhere around here. Any suggestions? You think an auto-body shop might sell me a few drops of their leftovers? I have found some online at good prices, but I'm not buying a gallon or two unless I can see for myself what it does first.
Rustoleum primer isn't a bad idea - but finish coats of rust paint from any major brand oxidize quickly and in a year of sun exposure a lot , maybe most, of the shine has been reduced to dullness - try a Urethane porch and floor enamel as a finish coat(s) - they are a long lasting, weather resistant finish that doesn't oxidize so quickly and outlasts any of the non-automotive finishes with the possible exception of marine enamel - if you are serious about having a long lasting, SHINY finish, use an automotive finish that has been sprayed on - a serviceable HVLP spray gun is reasonably priced and will do a very adequate job - a bit of practice with it and you'll be using it in every application you can possibly use it - a professional painter using every trick in the trade can't come close to achieving the finish of a sprayed on finish by using a brush and roller
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:04 PM   #193
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Rustoleum primer isn't a bad idea - but finish coats of rust paint from any major brand oxidize quickly and in a year of sun exposure a lot , maybe most, of the shine has been reduced to dullness - try a Urethane porch and floor enamel as a finish coat(s) - they are a long lasting, weather resistant finish that doesn't oxidize so quickly and outlasts any of the non-automotive finishes with the possible exception of marine enamel - if you are serious about having a long lasting, SHINY finish, use an automotive finish that has been sprayed on - a serviceable HVLP spray gun is reasonably priced and will do a very adequate job - a bit of practice with it and you'll be using it in every application you can possibly use it - a professional painter using every trick in the trade can't come close to achieving the finish of a sprayed on finish by using a brush and roller
I'd taking Dzlfreak's advice and trying the cheap purple hvlp from harbor freight. Its like ten bucks so I could just throw it away when I'm done and if it goes missing I'm not out much.
I've not tried one yet but a friend gave me one as a gift this xmas so I'll give it a try soon.
I think I'll use some single stage automotive stuff. We have an auto paint store in town finally, so that's always nice.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:26 PM   #194
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I'd taking Dzlfreak's advice and trying the cheap purple hvlp from harbor freight. Its like ten bucks so I could just throw it away when I'm done and if it goes missing I'm not out much.
I've not tried one yet but a friend gave me one as a gift this xmas so I'll give it a try soon.
I think I'll use some single stage automotive stuff. We have an auto paint store in town finally, so that's always nice.

I agree with the HVLP gun suggestions. I have had one for several years now. Mine gets used less than once a year, but it always works well as long as you clean it up good after use. The majority that I've sprayed through mine has been Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. You can brush it on or thin down and spray it. It is a rust convertor like POR15. Any way I agree, the gun is well worth the price for a rookie painter... (Me)
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:31 PM   #195
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spend $100 - you'll be much happier with it and will use it for many things over the years - still cheap for a nicer paint job
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:07 PM   #196
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HVLP's are also for use great outdoors. The pattern is virtually all paint and not a "mist" that floats away on the breeze. And...the "cutoff" on the edges is so sharp it also limits overspray.


I did a little cinderblock building with one and the edge of the pattern was so clean I didn't even tape off the door & window trim. Not 100% perfect but simply holding a piece of cardboard kept everything sharp.


Pretty sweet & cheap. Just don't OVER-thin.
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Old 01-09-2019, 06:59 AM   #197
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spend $100 - you'll be much happier with it and will use it for many things over the years - still cheap for a nicer paint job
I've used expensive paint gear before. I'm looking forward to trying out the ten dollar hvlp. I've got plenty of stuff to test it out on before spraying the bus so should be fine.
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Old 01-11-2019, 05:59 PM   #198
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Except for a few trim pieces, my lower cabinets are done......really like the way the doors turned out. I used self-closing hinges, and also hinged them all to the rear so in an emergency braking situation they won't all fly open and possibly snap off. Now on to the upper cabinets....I plan on sliding doors for those.

Question.......how do magnetic door catches hold up to rough/dirt road travel? Is there enough flexion that the doors pop open constantly?
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:05 PM   #199
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I wouldn't trust magnets to hang on if they were bumped from the inside of the cabinets with a stack of plates or a can of peas etc
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:34 PM   #200
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I wouldn't trust magnets to hang on if they were bumped from the inside of the cabinets with a stack of plates or a can of peas etc

Totally agree with that sledd. When stuff decides to move even the best packing down isn't good on rough roads. Not much you can do from the driver's seat at that point. The stuff flies out a stiffer latch would help more than a magnet.
Styrofoam plates are pretty quiet while driving any roads,

Cabinets and doors look great Doug.


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