Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
Totally agree with that sledd. When stuff decides to move even the best packing down isn't good on rough roads. Not much you can do from the driver's seat at that point. The stuff flies out a stiffer latch would help more than a magnet.
Styrofoam plates are pretty quiet while driving any roads,
Now that is one to conjure with sledd. They make styrofoam peas for packing material, maybe try them out. Maybe you can patent a new invention.
Better peas than beer rollin around.
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to have a small 'railing' behind each door to prevent things from sliding up against it......was more worried about the doors coming open from their own weight while the bus was flexing. I'm trying to avoid having to unhook any latches every time I open a door, so may just bungee them while in transit. The self-closing hinges keep them closed while parked, even on a quite unlevel grade.
Never had an RV before, so didn't know how the magnets would hold. A friend suggested the "super" magnets, but who wants to yank on one of those every time you open a door.
Had planned on extending the deck forward in a couple of years when I added solar, but decided to finish it now, so that I can go ahead and close in the interior ceiling. Had a beautiful day for it too. The narrower section in front will mainly be a catwalk between my solar panels. The whole deck is very unobtrusive, and everything sits below the level of the factory e-hatch.
Deck looks good, man. I like the low profile deck. I'm planning a similar deck. Do you have wood joists attached to the metal roof, or what?
Yes sir..........heavy duty L brackets bolted through each rib and end cap flange, and bolted through the 2 x 4s. Then the 3/4" planks fastened with 1 5/8" deck screws. Also a couple of runners that aren't attached to the bus, but just there to support the plank's span. The bottom of the deck boards are about 1 3/8" above the roof at the centerline.
I also put rubber weatherstripping under all the wood to keep it from squeaking. Don't know if it helped or not, but they don't squeak.
Yes sir..........heavy duty L brackets bolted through each rib and end cap flange, and bolted through the 2 x 4s. Then the 3/4" planks fastened with 1 5/8" deck screws. Also a couple of runners that aren't attached to the bus, but just there to support the plank's span. The bottom of the deck boards are about 1 3/8" above the roof at the centerline.
I also put rubber weatherstripping under all the wood to keep it from squeaking. Don't know if it helped or not, but they don't squeak.
Sweet, thanks for the pictures. I'm much more comfortable working with wood than with steel, but I've considered trying to use Unistrut or something for the runners. Dunno if it would be tall enough though. There's a serious lack of Roof Deck tutorials on this site so I'm trying to gather ideas wherever I can!
There's a serious lack of Roof Deck tutorials on this site so I'm trying to gather ideas wherever I can!
I saw one video where a guy screwed the unistrut onto the roof with self-tappers, then built what looked like 4-500 pounds of wood on top of it.....scared the crap outta me just watching it.
I actually thought about a 2x4 on top of unistrut (to solve the height issue you mention), but end the end went the lighter weight route. With 16 bolts, this thing is plenty solid.
Looks great! I like that you used bolts instead of screws or self tappers. You won't have to worry about it for a long time. Do you have the L brackets on both sides of the 2x4s or just one side?
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to have a small 'railing' behind each door to prevent things from sliding up against it......was more worried about the doors coming open from their own weight while the bus was flexing. I'm trying to avoid having to unhook any latches every time I open a door, so may just bungee them while in transit. The self-closing hinges keep them closed while parked, even on a quite unlevel grade.
Never had an RV before, so didn't know how the magnets would hold. A friend suggested the "super" magnets, but who wants to yank on one of those every time you open a door.
For our cabinet drawers we put cylinder locks like you have on a desk. I don't have a picture of them installed but they would great and come with different length hasp deals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We have old waterbed drawers under our bed, haven't decided what the best plan of action for securing them yet.
Had planned on extending the deck forward in a couple of years when I added solar, but decided to finish it now, so that I can go ahead and close in the interior ceiling. Had a beautiful day for it too. The narrower section in front will mainly be a catwalk between my solar panels. The whole deck is very unobtrusive, and everything sits below the level of the factory e-hatch.
As much as I'd like a deck up top, I've been warned the insurance companies don't want to see them...up here in the great white north anyway.
Didn't have a lot of free time to work on the bus this weekend, but got a few things buttoned up. Finished trimming and sanding my deck extension, and applied two coats of spar urethane.
Also got my propane heater this week, and built a mount for it. The tanks will be located below the cabinet in a wire-mesh cage. I may cut a door in the floor for access.....I don't really want to cut another door on the outside. The heater worked very well......low 60s in the bus on the low setting, with outside temps in the high 30s.
Looking good! Is that heater rated for indoor use? I don't know heaters very well so thought I would ask. I like how you mounted on the door so it can be folded away when not in use. I went with a used heater from an RV. I haven't installed it yet. Will you have a propane/CO monitor mounted in there for safety? That was a worry of mine so I ordered one from Amazon.
Looking good! Is that heater rated for indoor use? I don't know heaters very well so thought I would ask. I like how you mounted on the door so it can be folded away when not in use. I went with a used heater from an RV. I haven't installed it yet. Will you have a propane/CO monitor mounted in there for safety? That was a worry of mine so I ordered one from Amazon.
Yes to the indoor use.....it's a Mr. Heater Little Buddy, and actually had very high ratings from the camper crowd. The DynaGlo I bought last year just puts out too much heat even on the lowest setting....having to open the roof hatch every 30 minutes or so.
And a DEFINITE yes on the monitors, and a couple of fire extinguishers. I haven't used propane very much in the past, and after watching a few YouTube videos of exploding 20# tanks, I've developed a very healthy respect for the dangers involved. Propane will also be used for cooking and hot water heating.
De-humidifiers are really popular with the propane crowd. It's biggest drawback (other than that pesky explosion thing) seems to be all the moisture it pumps into a bus.
Oh...and leave a window cracked open so you don't use up all the oxygen. Breathing is good.
Linear Mode
