Found out why I had a few leaks from the flashers. The back of the assembly has 'legs' where the screws hold the assembly to the body, and these legs leave a 1/8" gap all around the circumference....the water just runs into the holes in the endcaps and into that foam inner-seal. You'd think there would be a gasket, at the least, to prevent that, but not so.
I wanted to keep the school bus look, but wanted the lenses to be more noticeable, so I took them apart and gave them a mineral spirit scrubbing. To brighten them, I left the base off of the lenses and painted my backing tin white to help reflect more light. They turned out much brighter than my brake and turn signal lenses, so I'll have to go back and do them as well.
What lights do you have up top on the front? LEDs?
Nah.....they DO look like lights, but that's just the tin backer plates, painted white, before I put the lenses back on. Still undecided if I want to put floodlights up there at a later date, but for now I wanted to get the leaks sealed before finishing the interior of the endcaps.
I was thinking about going with clear lens or installing some round flush mount LED lights in those places.
At one time I considered plexiglass over the holes, to allow more light in that chronically dark area of most buses, but then decided in favor of cutting my transom windows, to allow even more light PLUS move air through the bus.
And given all the discussions I've read on here about whether or not high-mounted white lights are even legal without some cover over them, I think I'm just going to mount additional lighting in my front bumper cut-outs.
Had originally built my generator door to accommodate a HF Predator 2000, but changing horses mid-stream......so I had to cut out some skin and build a wider door. I did color match the wood a little better this go-round.
And got my windows sussed out. Spent a LOT of time pondering, and multiple mock-ups, trying to figure out how to achieve one-handed operation. The size of these latches are overkill to be sure, but I didn't trust the smaller ones to hold up. I think these will outlive me. And one-handed op rules!
If I can insulate well enough I'll run it there, but I'm *planning* a pull-out tray with support legs, with an attached hood for sound deflection.
Most all onboard factory RV gens use a directed exhaust outlet, directing spent fuel emissions away from the vehicle and not just underneath/toward the ground.
There is a potential for serious consequences if exhaust can migrate into the sleeping areas.
Something more to think about!
I'm 6'1" with a 34" inseam.....not sure of the size of the 'average' bus driver, but I prefer to drive with my arms extended, so I moved the seat pedestal back a few inches......which left me unable to fully depress the clutch.....so I built up my pedals. Reminded me of my grandpa, who did the same on his farm tractors when I was 10 or 11 so I could drive them in the fields. I still had to stand up on the brakes to get them stopped.
Also made some head- and foot-bolsters to fill up the difference between my 75" mattress and the 90" wall-to-wall span. Decided to leave the tops loose for storage underneath....not sure what I'll keep there, but it's a small bus, so I'm sure something will migrate there.
And started on my bathroom innards. That's either my bucket or my new coffee cup.....haven't decided yet.
My window spring latch handles were riding on my shelf, so I added some hardwood blocks to raise them a little.
And started on my propane cage....will probably be a plywood box with a wire bottom. Thought about a 2"x 3" frame with wire bottom and sides, but slightly concerned about rocks getting thrown up against my tanks. I don't look forward to cutting/grinding off that floor rib.....last time I ended up eating a lot of sparks because of the close quarters under there. Anyone got an easier method? I would try my air chisel, but I already sold my compressor.