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Old 03-15-2011, 01:32 AM   #141
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Thanks, I love the size of it...

When I was looking at busses the guy that sold me this posted up 6 of them... By the time I got a hold of him and came out to take a look(a couple of days) there were only two left... I really wish now that I had picked up the other one...

It turns sharper than my Chevy Crew Cab did...
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:27 PM   #142
Bus Nut
 
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Location: Elk Plain, WA.
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Year: 1993
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Got the rest of the exterior lights... Everything is led's except for the uppers that are sealed beam flood type... I had to take the backing plates off and paint them black, the only ones I could find that would work were either chrome or white...

Trying to get everything back together and take it to emissions this week...

Still need to mount the hitch...


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Old 04-27-2011, 06:22 PM   #143
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

A HUGE thanks goes out to Dan on another forum... A little while back he PM'd me asking if I wanted any parts off of a motorhome he was scrapping...

I met up with him at his place and there was a lot of usable stuff... Asked him what I could pull off of it and what he wanted for it... He let me and my boys attack the thing and take whatever we needed for a bottle of whiskey...

Stopped by the liquor store on the way home and picked up a half gallon of Sailor Jerry's for trade and started tearing stuff out the next day...

Here's some pics of the goods, there's still a lot of small misc things I have in tubs from the motorhome...

Thanks again Dan...:cheer:


Fresh water holding tank... This might be the one I end up using because of space...



Really nice stove, almost brand new...



Toilet...



Hot water heater and range hood...



A good size propane furnace with 3 vents/ducting...



Water pump...



Fuse box with a long heavy gauge shore power cable...



Double stainless sink with faucet and all the plumbing...



A bunch of water lines and copper propane lines for all of the appliances...



An RV aluminum ladder for the bunks...



And a ton more stuff...
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:28 PM   #144
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Well, got almost all the lights installed... Still need to find backup lights and a light for the plate...


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Old 04-28-2011, 03:14 AM   #145
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

I was messing around with google sketch up tonight and put my vision in 3D...

The galley is on the driverside... The driver seat and stairs are in the empty space at the front...










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Old 04-28-2011, 10:23 PM   #146
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Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

I posted this on another forum, so there's some stuff that is explained that most of you already know... If I'm way off base, by all means, please comment and set me straight...

OK, so here's where I'm at...

The lighting system is nuts on this... Everything is tied together threw an emergency type system, kinda like you'd see on an ambulance...

I believe that when I took off the stop sign, it made part of the system not work... I can only get the inside uppers front and back to flash, outside ones wont light off at all... The outside light were red and I think they were tied into the stop sign...

The tail lights work, but they flash with the blinkers...

And none of the marker light come on at all...

When it was decommissioned as a school bus they pulled a bunch of the toggle switches that work the safety stuff... So, there's a ton of loose wires with no rhyme or reason...



This yellow box has the uppers running to it, along with others...




They are coming from this block...




Some stuff goes to this...




And more to this...




At the top is the bottom side of the toggle panel...




Here's the toggle panel... All they left was the wipers and heaters plugged in...





I'm thinking I'll have to take everything apart and trace it all, one wire at a time... And of course, all this has to be done from the outside of the bus... Good thing it's always raining...
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:08 PM   #147
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Year: 1993
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
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Re: The Dirtybus...

So, the company(ELS) that makes the yellow box, has been in business since 1995...

My bus is a 1993...

I guessing this system isn't what came with the bus originally... That makes it impossible to find a schematic... That could also explain some loose wires...
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:22 PM   #148
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Re: The Dirtybus...

Photo 1- find wiring information on the B-1 here: http://www.inpowerdirect.com/docs/TB-34A.pdf
Terminal 5 is grounded to negative for power to operate the controller, flasher, and relays.
When the [warning] master switch is turned on, +12 volts is applied to Pin 4, arming the system.
As a driver approaches a stop, he presses the "start" button momentarily applying +12 volts to Terminal 6
This causes power to alternately go out through Terminal 7 [right] and Terminal 8 [left] to flash the warning ambers.
When the bus stops, the driver opens the door, and the door switch grounds Terminal 3.
This causes:
a.) the amber flashers stop
b.) power to the red lamps alternately comes out Terminal 9 [right] and Terminal 10 [left]
c.) power to activate the stop arm solenoid comes out Terminal 1

Turning on the double-pole "override" switch both applies a ground to the door switch terminal, and applies +12 volts to the override terminal.
I speculate that removing the ground from the door switch (closing the door) shuts down the red lights and stop arms, and that the override switch shuts them down with the door still open. Maybe someone who has driven a route can confirm that.

So, if you are looking to re-use the overhead lights, the four heavy wires next to the four 20-amp fuses feed the bulbs through the rusted terminal connections in Photo 2 -. Wire power to re-use the lights to here through fused fog light relays (or perform surgery inside the B-1 to divorce the relays installed on the unit from the flasher circuitry, and re-use the fused relay portion of the assembly). The two small wires probably go to flash the amber and red indicators on your switch panel to advise the driver the warning lights are on.

Photo 3 - This is a group of self-resetting circuit breakers for critical systems that can't tolerate a blown fuse while operating. The cylinder at the bottom of the photo is a solenoid. It is probably either an ignition or accessory solenoid, but it could be the one between the flasher and stop arms, or perform some other function. One of the small wires on the small stud in front goes to the key or control switch, and applies power to activate the solenoid when it is "on." This connects the two big studs together applying power from the batteries to the switched circuits.

I can't see if the heavy wire at the bottom of the circuit breaker assembly comes from this solenoid or someplace else. The heavy wire at the bottom is the hot, inside there is a metal bar up the middle connected to this as a hot distribution buss, and the wires on the right and left come out of the individual breakers to the protected circuits.

Photo 4 - The orange blocks appear to be disconnects to pass various wires through a chassis wall like it would pass through a firewall. The added fuses are mechanics' aftermarket work. They are either band-aids to keep troubled circuits going, or were added to power accessories that were not installed when the bus left the factory.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:20 PM   #149
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
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Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Thanks for the info...

Hopefully I'll have it figured out this coming week...
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:53 PM   #150
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Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,489
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/AT545
Re: The Dirtybus...

Oh man! Good luck with all THAT! I recently did some work in my electrical "nest" and eliminated that yellow thing altogether (mine is a different model than yours, but similar in function). I still have a couple non-functioning heaters and only half of my overhead flashers work, but I'm getting there!
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #151
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 446
Year: 89
Coachwork: thomas
Engine: 7.3 diesel
Re: The Dirtybus...

I did away with it too, I rewired the lights with 4 switches, there are 4 main wires going to the flashers, I just hooked them up so I have 4 twin spotlights, hope I never break down, but if I do I will have great lights to work on the bus with, its like daylight when I turn on the front two. I wired them to the house batteries so the genny will charge them, that way I dont kill the starting batteries...
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #152
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
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Year: 1993
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

A buddy of mine brought over his Power Probe so I can figure out the wiring... Never used one before, but damn, very cool tool...

Hook it up to the + and - on the battery and start touching wires... It tells you if it's a ground, dead or positive... Then if you're on a positive you hit a button and it powers up whatever that wire goes to... If you touch a negative you hit the toggle down and it kicks the relay or whatever... If you are touching something and you shouldn't be, it has it's own breaker that pops so you don't fry anything on the vehicle...

This should help out a lot... Gonna drive down the street to another buddies place and get after it... He's much better at wiring than I am...

The biggest obstacle is the rain... Need some decent weather so I'm not standing in the rain for hours... Yeah, I grew up in Washington, but this year has been rediculess... We just had the coldest April on record and people are starting to build Arks and gathering animals two by two...
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:30 PM   #153
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Drove the bus over to Donnie's yesterday to play with the wiring...






Looked at it for a little while with Jimbo and Rick, but the beers were causing to much of a distraction... Spent the rest of the night chillin' by the fire gettin' drunk...






Slept in the bus on a cot... Then got after the wiring this morning... Got pretty much all the major stuff figured out... Huge thanks to Donnie...


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Old 05-15-2011, 08:03 AM   #154
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Location: Idaho
Posts: 575
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Re: The Dirtybus...

Lucky you! Dain is here having hissy fits over the mess the wires are in my Fran bus.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:15 PM   #155
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: hartford WI
Posts: 52
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 5.9 Cummings
Rated Cap: 24
Re: The Dirtybus...

What type and watt bulbs did you use on your overhead lights? How did you get the beam of light to shine down instead of just straight out?
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:23 PM   #156
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Dirtybus...

Quote:
Originally Posted by funbus63
What type and watt bulbs did you use on your overhead lights? How did you get the beam of light to shine down instead of just straight out?

They are the seald beam lights that were already there, I just put on clear lenses... Haven't tried to make them point down, I might look for some of the eyebrow things for the tops of them... I plan on only using them for docking lights at camp...
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:38 PM   #157
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 124
Year: 1999
Coachwork: ElDorado
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: 7.4 liter 454 Chevy
Rated Cap: 24
Re: The Dirtybus...

Nice bus.
I can't help by looking at it like it was kicked in the rear end with that stubby rear and nose sticking out?
Think about a three foot lift and monster boggers on it?
Seriously I look forward to seeing your project develop and I am working on mine and getting great advice and ideas from the people here..
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:59 PM   #158
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 352
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: 466DT
Rated Cap: 65
Re: The Dirtybus...

Any updates? I've been waiting for a picture of a Blazer on a trailer behind that thing...
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:21 AM   #159
Skoolie
 
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Year: 1999
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Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: 7.4 liter 454 Chevy
Rated Cap: 24
Re: The Dirtybus...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtygoat
I still have the big heater by the front door... You don't think that will be enough???


I thought I'd share this with you guys...

OK, when the wife got home last night she said her car was acting funny... She came around the corner and it started running like crap and had no power... I told her I'd take a look at it tomorrow...

Well, she drove the Jimmy to work so I could look at her car... Did some stuff around the house, then made lunch for me and the boys... Started working on the bus, then after getting tired of grinding rivets, I took a break from it...

I go inside and grab her keys, head out to take a look at her car... I figure, I'll run it up and down the road to get an idea of what going on... I turn the corner and it runs out of gas...


Fixed...
Been there also. Don't you just love the strange things your better half does?
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:24 AM   #160
Skoolie
 
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Engine: 7.4 liter 454 Chevy
Rated Cap: 24
Re: The Dirtybus...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coma
Did you put any sealer along all the joints? My preference is a urethane based sealant. Stays relatively soft and paintable.
I use the sealer when you install a windshield - that black nasty very sticky rubber sealer.
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