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Old 01-31-2015, 03:25 PM   #21
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No real progress on the bus today. Worked on my stationary home ;)

Master bath is finally coming along

I did remove the temp tag and placed the official FL tag, though! Also, I started the engine today just to make sure.....started right up like the good ol' skoolie it is!

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Old 01-31-2015, 04:11 PM   #22
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@CB, I'd help if I could, but I'm on the opposite end of the country :P

@skoolie n00bie, this is one of the few instances in my life where I'm glad I'm 5'7", I can buy almost any bus since most minimum heights in most school buses is near the 6ft mark. Nice score through. What are your plans for it? Full working RV, camper, or ?
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:30 AM   #23
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Hey vegan!
Plan is to convert to a "weekender" RV. We're still debating on a shower ;)

Got to put in some time on the bus yesterday. Managed to finish removing the seats and rubber flooring. Don't know if because our is an older bus, of what not, but there was no plywood, just glued rubber:


I found only one little corner that was rusted through. I banged the whole floor with a sledge hammer, nothing else gave in


Next: clean the rust nicely inside and out, prep the outside, treat rust in and out. I just need to find a good rust converter....

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Old 02-02-2015, 06:53 AM   #24
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I wish I had a better picture of the rear door's "electrical anti theft"

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Old 02-02-2015, 06:55 AM   #25
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Wards didn't come with plywood floors in our buses' era at least.
Mine had none, and I am VERY glad!
Man, its cool to see your bus. Its like looking at my own. That last pic of the rust is just like mine.
I'm removing the rust, then using ospho, then priming it with rustoleum rusty metal primer. A jug of ospho is less than twenty bucks and goes a long way. The Rustoleum is $23 a gallon at Lowes.
Rustoleum makes a really nice rust converter too, but I've used this method of mine since bodyshop school. My 66 beetle still looks nearly new from its 1995/1996 restoration.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:57 AM   #26
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Look familiar?
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:14 AM   #27
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Did I step in the twilight zone?

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Old 02-02-2015, 07:15 AM   #28
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Cool, will try that ospho stuff

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Old 02-02-2015, 07:29 AM   #29
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It should be available at Ace Hardware or anywhere that sells metal working/auto body supplies.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:30 AM   #30
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Awesome. And there's an ace HW by the house ;)

Been thinking about plumbing and electrical....my idea for plumbing is very simple: one fresh water tank as high up as I can without putting it outside on the roof, then two lines one for kitchenette sink, one for possible shower. Eletrical ....still thinking....

Question is: will a 3-4ft drop enough to give enough pressure for water to run properly?

I see an experiment in the near future.... ;)

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Old 02-02-2015, 10:37 AM   #31
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I don't know about that stuff. Especially the plumbing.
I'm mounting my tanks low to keep the weight as close to the bottom center as possible for weight distribution.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:47 AM   #32
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True....but I'm not putting a 200gal tank....I'm thinking less than 100

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Old 02-02-2015, 10:53 AM   #33
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oh, right on. I sort of forgot "weekend camper" part. At around 8.3 lbs per gallon water can get heavy quickly.
If it was me and I were only using it as a weekender, I'd me tempted to use the refillable water jugs with the spout on the front at the sink and would use a solar shower bag. That would save some space. Anyhow, just thinking. Its raining out so I'm extremely bored.

How high you wanna go then?
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:59 AM   #34
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I forgot to mention my ideas for grey water disposal! If we go the "no shower" route, then it'll be simple implementation with collection right under the sink, with hose attachment for external disposal when full. If shower is involved.....idk

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Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 AM   #35
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Was going to go as high ad the inside of the roof....so about 6ft?

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Old 02-02-2015, 05:11 PM   #36
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If you are putting any significant amount of liquid that high up you will need baffles in the tank. Otherwise it will slosh around when you're cornering and could cause MAJOR problems. I can go into all the physics if you want to really determine the risk, but for now I'll just say that it would be a much safer bet to keep the center of gravity low and use a submersible pump IMHO. You're not going to get that much pressure anyway unless you have a really big tank up there.
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Old 02-02-2015, 05:47 PM   #37
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I have to second the "High Water" concerns. At 8.34 lbs. per gallon it adds up fast ( I will avoid going into inertial effects and moment arms as well). Anything over 4 or five gallons could be an issue. Beyond a number of other considerations, if (when) anything about the tank leaks, it is all coming down and in.

An interior or underbelly tank & pump (electrical or manual) are the standard for quite a few good reasons.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:37 PM   #38
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I put a shower in ours and we have used it exactly three times in two years (partly because I'm a slob). If you're going to be mostly parking at campgrounds with showers you may be able to do without it. Space is very tight in these shorties.

We have a 35 gallon fresh water tank under the bed in ours with a flowjet water pump. You won't get much water pressure with a raised tank.
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:32 PM   #39
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@scotticus and @tango I completely agree. Had not thought about those points one bit!
@roach lol and about the tank under the bed. I think we want to use that as storage....what are the dimensions of your 35gal?
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:54 PM   #40
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Mine's about 37x19x12 inches. Here it is under the bed early in the construction phase.

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