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Old 02-26-2015, 01:33 PM   #101
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I think they found it on a craigslist ad. Should be here in this thread.
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:42 PM   #102
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Nice bus, looks like you are having fun with the conversion! I live in Miami and my wife and I are looking into purchasing a larger bus to convert. I was wondering what dealer you purchased it from?
Thanks
Hey Pier!
Nice to know someone in the area is as nuts.....cough cough....interested....as me!
Didn't use a dealer, found the bus on CL by pure luck!

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Old 02-26-2015, 03:20 PM   #103
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Thanks for the reply.

I've been checking the local Craigslist, and most of the buses are being sold by a dealer in Tampa and a guy down in Homestead. Once I decide what I want I will probably pay the guy in Homestead a visit to see what he has.

I really want to inspect the bus before I purchase it, which rules out a lot of the auctions going on up north.
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:23 PM   #104
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I've heard good things about the Tampa place. They deliver and do their own title work and can pull some strings to have it titled as MH right off the bat. Just what I've heard. I don't know the people. Seem a little pricey to me.
I'm not suggesting anyone do what I do, but I saved a ton of money buying mine online at auction. Like half what dealers were wanting. I talked to the folks a whole lot before bidding. They were really helpful. They even had it fully fueled and put in a new battery. They assured me it was more than roadworthy enough to get home. It was/is. It was obviously a bit of a gamble but I got a serous thrill coming home in it too.
Just sharing my experience. It was EPIC to me!
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:28 PM   #105
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Yeah, that is the problem with all the dealers around here, the buses start at 5k and go up from there. I'm in no rush, so when the right bus comes along at the right price I will get it, just not going to rush in.

If something pops up on an auction site that is awesome, I might just take a chance and bid on it, but only if it is AWESOME!
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:09 PM   #106
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That's how I felt. I think mine is fairly awesome. Pretty nicely equipped and mostly solid other than some surface rust from the darned roof hatches. They leaked since new.
I was stoked to find an FE layout with so much storage underneath. All mechanical and solid. Best $2285 I ever spent.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:44 AM   #107
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Hello everyone!
Quick update: started "rustproofing" the exterior of the bus yesterday. I have to say, it felt really nice to be doing something on the bus! I'm rattle-can'ng it for now, just to cover and avoid new rust from forming, but as time permits I'll be doing a lot more. Plus, there's still the roof to think about.... Don't even have a ladder tall enough!

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Old 03-10-2015, 12:22 PM   #108
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Hello everyone!
Quick update: started "rustproofing" the exterior of the bus yesterday. I have to say, it felt really nice to be doing something on the bus! I'm rattle-can'ng it for now, just to cover and avoid new rust from forming, but as time permits I'll be doing a lot more. Plus, there's still the roof to think about.... Don't even have a ladder tall enough!

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Painting over rust is only making it worse.

Spray it with oshpo.

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Old 03-10-2015, 01:19 PM   #109
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Right, my bad for not specifying. Didn't "paint", I used a rust stopper in spray can. Couldnt get the ospho jug from ace....got there 3 minutes too late -_-

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Old 03-11-2015, 10:33 AM   #110
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Ospho is just phosphoric acid. Just about all paint shops have their own version. The phosphoric acid turns iron oxide into iron phosphate which is very stable and happens to be a great base for painting. It also appears to lightly etch clean metal which gives paint a better "bite."

Scrape/brush off any loose rust
Apply the acid and let it work over night
brush off any white powder that may have formed
Prime & paint, preferably with oil based paints
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:33 PM   #111
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Agreed. Por15 has a version that has a high level of zinc in the same container. I used it on a couple of old vehicles. Good stuff. When I remove the bump strip, I'll take care of the rust with it before painting.

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Ospho is just phosphoric acid. Just about all paint shops have their own version. The phosphoric acid turns iron oxide into iron phosphate which is very stable and happens to be a great base for painting. It also appears to lightly etch clean metal which gives paint a better "bite."

Scrape/brush off any loose rust
Apply the acid and let it work over night
brush off any white powder that may have formed
Prime & paint, preferably with oil based paints
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Old 03-12-2015, 05:06 AM   #112
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Por15 is good stuff just way overpriced.
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:27 AM   #113
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One more option...
I have been using an industrial product called "Restore" to convert & stabilize oxidation on my work for about ten years now with outstanding results. To my knowledge, it is the only thing in the "rust converter" category that is rated as a final finish (does not require painting over to get the benefits). It is a tannic acid based mixture that transforms the surface oxides into a tough, stable, organic compound but also contains a polymer that rises to the surface during curing and leaves a very durable finish. I tested it for about four years trying to force the steel rebar I use to rust and couldn't. I am coating just about every metal surface on my '46 with it. You can brush, roll or spray it on. I use a little $20 buck siphon sprayer for most work as it handles viscous materials very well. Stuff runs about $18 bucks a quart but as noted, it is a one-and-done process and way cheaper than the multi-stage POR routine. You can still paint over it if you want, but don't have to.

And no...I don't own stock in the company (or any other company for that matter). Just wanted to pass along something that has worked very well for me.
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:54 PM   #114
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Eastwood Co used to sell stuff called "corroless" that I used on my vw bug nearly twenty years ago. it has held up extremely well. At least as well as por15 or better and it was a ton cheaper. They are now selling por15 there so I wonder what happened to the Corroless stuff.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:23 PM   #115
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Hello Everyone!
I know I've fallen off the face of the earth for a while now, unfortunately bills don't pay themselves. I think many here will understand ;)

I've finally bought and applied some ospho, but I don't think it rendered the desired results. Maybe i didn't apply it correctly? I just sprayed it on the scraped rusty area.

Now I'm at a crossroad: start to do little body work myself that will last maybe a year, or spend $$$ to have it done professionally, and be good for longer.
I think I'll go with the former, and maybe do major body work later, when hopefully there's more $$$ avail. !

So far, little progress. And I have to say, I might be giving in to the idea not to remove the inner layer, just to have the rv ready by the end of the summer, at least. I know it's a big no-no here, but I think I bit more than what I can proverbially chew......
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:21 PM   #116
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That's why I never turn down free help.

I know how it goes with needing to pay bills and the project being a big one!
Glad to see you on here again, I was wondering where you went!
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:05 AM   #117
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Hey CB!
Oh yeah, I'm still here....thinking of the most economical and safe way to finish this ;)

I do want to finish coating the outside with primer before rain season starts......plus I'll get an rv cover
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:05 AM   #118
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HF here I come for a paint buffer/scraper.....
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:19 PM   #119
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If you are in FL or the same kind of weather, an rv cover is not as great as it sounds. I know they become a humidity chamber, love nest for rodents and hide what is really going on until you remove it later and find more work due to the rodents, spiders and accumulated rust from the humidity. That moisture chamber also causes mold and mildew that will ruin upholstery.
I'm just saying a word of caution because I know what it did to my MGB in 2 months and I had a lot of work to do before I could drive it again and the mice had eaten all the carpet glue and dragged shredded plastic and paper in to build their nest. They also chewed thru some wire insulation. Fun stuff.
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:30 PM   #120
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If you are in FL or the same kind of weather, an rv cover is not as great as it sounds. I know they become a humidity chamber, love nest for rodents and hide what is really going on until you remove it later and find more work due to the rodents, spiders and accumulated rust from the humidity. That moisture chamber also causes mold and mildew that will ruin upholstery.
I'm just saying a word of caution because I know what it did to my MGB in 2 months and I had a lot of work to do before I could drive it again and the mice had eaten all the carpet glue and dragged shredded plastic and paper in to build their nest. They also chewed thru some wire insulation. Fun stuff.
O.O
Any suggestion as an extra weather protection, other than a car port?
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