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Old 06-20-2017, 08:21 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Not to pick on you but how did you get this old and do hot rods (mechanical stuffs) and not already know this? Glad to be of service tho.

The more weight and tension on the gears the better. Harder to overcome to get the gear "free" but also less likely to have a "run away" as well. Your 450 lb tranny would have been fine.
I never needed ratchet straps for hotrods.. I always had ramps to drive up on to pull transmissions ..and being smaller, they always wheeled right out from under the car on the jack so no need to support it.. I would use an engine hoist to support the rear of the motor while the trans was out.

the engine hoist was also used to bench a transmission where i could make repairs if needed.. I only ever rebuild the simple stuff when it came to trannies.. (TH-350s), once i discovered OD stuff I had a shop build the trans.. id just yank it and haul it off to them..

pulling engines i used the engine hoist and would mount the engine on a builder stand to build..

no ratchet straps needed..

when I used them in the bed of the truck to tie stuff down it was always full release.. no need to ratchet it "out"...tie down and release..

never used them out 4 wheeling either.. one of my jeeps had a winch when I thought I wanted to be more serious at 4 wheeling.. but decided that my tendency of wanting my Jeep to Look brand new inside and out didnt go along with 4 wheeling so I never had another winch.

BTW im not old yet.. started building stuff when I was young.. always done it since.. 48 years young, i figure I got alot of years and alot more projects to build left in me..

these busses wont be around forever.. I'll have fun with them for awhile and then build something else..

-Christopher
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:55 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
when I used them in the bed of the truck to tie stuff down it was always full release.. no need to ratchet it "out"...tie down and release..
Ah I see. You didn't have them tight then. They will get to a point where you have to release slowly. I'm of german descent; goodentight.

Quote:
BTW im not old yet.. started building stuff when I was young.. always done it since.. 48 years young, i figure I got alot of years and alot more projects to build left in me..

these busses wont be around forever.. I'll have fun with them for awhile and then build something else..

-Christopher
That's old. Takes one to know one; also 48. I dread the point when I CAN'T do stuff myself. I'm already at the point where it hurts to do it myself. I don't know if there will be any projects after the bus. It very well may be the death of me.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:28 AM   #83
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I mightr be hitting you up for info on the 3rd member.. I noticed my pinion seal is seeping a bit... the bearing still feels nice N tight.. havent figured out if I can take it apart, change the seal and put it back together without complete disassembly or not...

I know on my old hotrod stuff it had a crush sleeve.. once you loosened up the pinion nut you were supposed to put a new sleeve in which required removing the carrier and setting it all up again..

are the busses similar? or is pre-load set differently and the seal just pressed in behind the yoke?
-Christopher
Depends on the rear end that you have. However, most of the time you can use a chisel to mark the location of the nut relative to the shaft and replace the seal without replacing the crush sleeve (even on ones where they say to replace the sleeve).

Remove the driveshaft. Mark the nut and shaft(I'll also mark the yoke so as to keep everything the same). Remove the nut and yoke. Replace the seal. Reinstall the yoke. Tighten the nut so that the marks all line up. Then reinstall the driveshaft.
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:41 AM   #84
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You can change the pinion seal on this type of third member without messing with the gear setup, the pinion yoke is on a splined shaft and taking the nut off in the center allows you to pull it off and change the seal, if the yoke is grooved, new ones are under 100 and just bolting back on. Think you also need a new nut because it is a lock nut
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:25 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
You can change the pinion seal on this type of third member without messing with the gear setup, the pinion yoke is on a splined shaft and taking the nut off in the center allows you to pull it off and change the seal, if the yoke is grooved, new ones are under 100 and just bolting back on. Think you also need a new nut because it is a lock nut
is it a torqued nut so there is no preload necessary on the bearing? I can just hit it with my air-gun to remove and then torque it back to 80 after seal replace like the old Chrysler / MOPAR stuff?
-Christopher
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:55 PM   #86
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The preload is provided by other nuts on the input shaft, so the one that removes the yoke just holds the yoke on
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Old 06-20-2017, 05:42 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
The preload is provided by other nuts on the input shaft, so the one that removes the yoke just holds the yoke on
this is awesome! great info!!! thanks!
-Christopher
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:07 AM   #88
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just a quick update... work's been crazy busy.. and yesterday was the tropical depression rain from H*LL.. while my bus is under roof itsn ot compoletely indoors, so laying underneath it was completely out..

however day before last i did manage to get a couple important things done.

got the driveshaft back from the shop, installed it, and it fits PERFECTLY.. thats one measurement i mustve done 30 times... fits right into the plate where it did before.. the magic number ot shorten it was 1 1/4".




then I was able to get my shifter bracket made and test fit.. without even adjusting the shifter in-cab I was able to go through all the gears RND321. and have no tension on the cable when the shifter was locked into each gear. this means i got the geometry right. there is enough clearance if i want to use park, but I either have to get a new Cab shifter, or take it apart and see if I can grind off the stop on the gate. I'll do that at a later date.. I may look for a shifter that has a P on it and the proper 4-2-1 instead of 3-2-1 labelling. not that i'll ever use the hard shifter to go downward as Ill have the electronic shifter..

things werent tightened up in the pic.



by "Geometry" what is meant is that the shift Leveer "on the left of the pic" is pulled by the cable to go towards 'Park', and the cable 'Pushes' out to go toward '1'. what you do is go in the cab and shift the shifter to the top.. 'R'.. then crawl under.. that cable should not be under any tension.. the little 'hook' should pull in and out of the shift lever bracket easily.. go to the next gear, test and so on.. the cable should never be under any tension when locked into a gear up top.. if it is under tension all the time you can rotate the 'hook' on the cable and then reinsert it into the lever..

if ytou find that only in some gears your cable is under tension.. ie tension gets stronger as you go through, then your "geometry" is off.. or the angle of the cable as it is in relation to the shift lever.. you would then re-position the cable anchor bracket (on right) higher or lower until you achieve an angle that causes no tension on the cable in any gear..

this is extras important because with incorrewct settings you can destroy your transmission in a short amount of time.. with enough tension on the cable.. the shift lever may not fully engage.. which results in an internal valve being partially open or closed.. low fluid pressures and burnt up clutches can result..


so then I took the shift bracket home, ground a little off the corner so it clears the neutral safety switch wire better, etched, primed, and painted it.. ready for final installation..



-Christopher
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:23 AM   #89
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Hell yeah, that's awesome.
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:28 AM   #90
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That swap's looking great so far! Can't wait to see the first test drive!

- Sean


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Old 06-24-2017, 09:15 AM   #91
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Outstanding! Can't wait to see more.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:57 PM   #92
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Thumbs up

Hi Christopher, looking good man! Do they do much testing of those after building them, before you picked it up? Just wondered if it ever had fluid in it yet and what about warranty.
You don't mess around about getting things done do you? lol

John
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:16 PM   #93
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Hi Christopher, looking good man! Do they do much testing of those after building them, before you picked it up? Just wondered if it ever had fluid in it yet and what about warranty.
You don't mess around about getting things done do you? lol

John
3 year any miles warranty.. (I think, or is it 5... i know at least 3).. they are shipped dry... the valve bodies are wet tested, the units are full reman as opposed to just rebuilt.. so all new clutches / springs / balls / sensors , solenoids, wiring, etc... upgraded for 500 HP capability so the drum, input shaft, etc are upgraded.. the converter is brand new. I didnt need the upgrades but its how they build them all.. (many customers are installing these in vehicles where the "smoke" is cranked up.. and they make em for various levels of power-adding... my little 190 HP 444E is going to make it say "is there anything here?"..

to me it feels like this project is slow.. as im also working on a new product release.. my original product took 5 years of DEV work to get where it is... and ive basically taken the new offering and stuffed it into 1.25 years.. and the official release date is nearing.. big trade show this week (though I wont be there.. I refused to go NORTH.. for fear it might be CHILL. lol and the show is in canada.. nevertheless I'll definitely be doing some travelling once its back together as that helps me with my DEV work..

-Christopher
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:59 PM   #94
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so does this transmission require electronic controls?
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Old 06-25-2017, 07:47 AM   #95
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so does this transmission require electronic controls?
Yes it does.. I have a whole box of electronic goodies to wire up and make this thing work.

with a T-444E we can get the accelerator pedal position from the existing sensor on the foot pedal. the transmission has many of its own internal sensors and a separate computer, so a comm link between the bus ECM and the transmission computer arent needed.

these can be built to use the ECM comms but from what I understand establishing the data link and installing the correct software in the ECM and TCM is a PITA.. so running stanalone and letting the transmission Learn is the best way to go.

on a fully mechanical engine, you replace the modulator cable from the old AT545 / MT643 with a cable connected to a box that will read the accelerator pedal position back to the transmission.

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:17 PM   #96
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here we go!! now its the fun part!.. not that making my own parts and fitting together things that never were built isnt fun.. (it reallty is).. but the inner geek gets to come out and play now.

first thing was to plug the computer in while the laptoip was internet enabled. updated to the lastest firmware in the onboard ECM.



once that finished.. I wanted to find out whether im really going to need that dakota-digital speed sensor signal converter or not... so I jumped into programming mode.. and found that I could change the number of pulses per rev on the Vehicle speed sensor from the AT545's 16 up to 40 which is what the 1000 uses.. this is important because this is how the dashboard speddometer is driven and cruise control is operated.. it also had a place to set the final drive ratio of the transmission.. not sure what they use it for but I set it to the .60 whichj the allison 1000 is.. hit the save button and the parameters took..

I wont know truly until I drive the bus on its maiden voyage.



hooked up the wires to the Neutral safety / reverse light switch, and adjusted that.



I reckon it works since I put it in R and get backup lights and not when its in D or N.. the starter kicked in N but just clicked in R so i called it good! tightened the screws..



i decided im locating my transmission control computer in the battery compartment.. despite having a nice dognose bus, there really is nearly zero firewall room to put anything.. and putting it underneath isnt recommended though it is water resistant.



ran the secondary harness into the cab... and put connectors on the ends so its ready to route up into the dashboard. these wires are for the check Trans light, tap / paddle shifters / and ignition power..

NOTE: when you put connectors on your wires.. make sure they are idiot proof.. configure the number of slots and the sex of the connectors so things can only fit together 1 way...



I swear by GM-style weatherpak connectors... plus connecting to existing navistar circuitry is easy.. thats what they used as well..



-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:28 PM   #97
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Where do you source the GM-style weatherpak connectors? Are they knock offs or the real thing? Might come in handy when rewiring my bus.

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Old 06-26-2017, 05:52 PM   #98
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they seem like the real deal but dont say GM on them.. mine are called 'caspers'.. ive bought several of these sets ove the years..

https://www.amazon.com/Caspers-10300.../dp/B000IHFO4W

you can buy the original delphi ones too.. or maybe mine are the ones that say delphi.. I didnt pay attention.. I know they fit right into the ones on the bus.. a couple of the sensors on the bus have Metripak connectors but I havent had to plug into any of those circuits..

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:20 PM   #99
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Just wondering if there is a break-in period or mileage to follow Christopher?
Won't be long before the maiden voyage now. What's next? New engine?
That will be the coolest, best running bus on any road soon!

John
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:29 PM   #100
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A gettin closer indeed.

John,
The Breakin I was given is put 12 qts fluid in, start it, look for major leaks , and fill till stick says full cold while running. Then go high idle on engine and run till trans temp gets to 145 degrees. Run through all gears slowly and fluid should be between full cold and full hot. Then literally drive it like I stole it to teach the trans computer the initial limits .. it needs at least 4 cycles of gears 1-4. Then shut off let cool down to cold then drive as normal. If you fail the initial learn you have to reflash the TCM.
The use of software to monitor the trans helps in that you can make sure the electronic signal voltages are translating to the correct values.

It's really cool how all of us here are building very different busses, from permanent homes to mobile businesses , weekend campers, toy haulers , you name it.

In the hotrod world drivetrain swaps are the norm. So for me this comes as super exciting and fun but at the same time familiar territory.

One of the reasons for this thread is I want to show that an average guy like me with regular tools can do swaps of major components. Hopefully taking some of the fear out for those afraid to travel or afraid of what if something goes wrong . Yes it's real work but can be done without a full blown workshop. Even the electronics.

Christopher
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