Thomas Minotour Build

[AlphaHare]

Originally Posted by ewo1

I can see you thought this out well!

Congrats!

What design software are you using?

Don't forget to upload some pics when you start the cutting!

Thanks!

I use 2D NanoCAD (a free AutoCAD Lite clone) for initial sketching, and Fusion360 for modeling.

[nikitis]

I use Tinkercad. It's a free, online cad program. I model 3D stuff all the time there and 3d Print the items, but I used it to design a proposal for building permits, and the permitting guys loved it so much they approved my permit at the city. I'm probably going to use it for my bus modeling as well.

[Beumers]

We have the sames bus! It came mostly gutted. We are working on decontamination right now and discussing a roof raise

[BamaBus]

Since the floor appears to be raised to avoid having raised wheel wells, would it be possible to have a sunken floor down the middle?

[AlphaHare]

Originally Posted by BamaBus

Since the floor appears to be raised to avoid having raised wheel wells, would it be possible to have a sunken floor down the middle?

The floor is above the wheels, but that's how Thomas build it - on some heavy C-channels on top of the Ford chassis rails. It's a great idea, but it's not happening here.

I thought about a sunken shower pan between the channels, but decided to go up instead.

[AlphaHare]

Originally Posted by Beumers

We have the sames bus! It came mostly gutted. We are working on decontamination right now and discussing a roof raise

I keep finding finding droppings, but it's not too bad. I have an hour coming over the drivers compartment where the mice were.

Going up is tricky on these Minotours because of the fiberglass front and back shells - have fun with your planning!

[AlphaHare]

Originally Posted by nikitis

I use Tinkercad. It's a free, online cad program. I model 3D stuff all the time there and 3d Print the items, but I used it to design a proposal for building permits, and the permitting guys loved it so much they approved my permit at the city. I'm probably going to use it for my bus modeling as well.

I've never tried TinkerCAD but I know it's been around for a while. I find that professionally, engineers get really tribal about CAD systems, but it's just a tool and all of them do about the same thing (more or less).

If you have one and it works for you, the bus doesn't care ;>)

[AlphaHare]

Found it - there is a video of this somewhere - I've seen it but can't find it now.

I bet it's pinned on the overload stops pretty hard. :>)

[AlphaHare]

Took advantage of a warmer (high 30s) afternoon and got the floor done. This worked pretty well - my Buddy heater under the bus and a skirt of scrap polyethylene that was in the barn.

I'm going to get the floor down before I do the roof - I'm thinking that having a wood deck will be easier and safer than the metal decking. I can temporarily screw down my scaffolding supports. It might start feeling warmer too, just not having that big flat skin of cold metal pulling the heat out of me....

[Albatross]

Originally Posted by Beumers

We have the sames bus! It came mostly gutted. We are working on decontamination right now and discussing a roof raise

Decontamination?


I'm pretty sure that you can find a bus that wasn't involved in a crime scene for pretty cheap.

[gdrew93]

Originally Posted by AlphaHare

Took advantage of a warmer (high 30s) afternoon and got the floor done. This worked pretty well - my Buddy heater under the bus and a skirt of scrap polyethylene that was in the barn.

I'm going to get the floor down before I do the roof - I'm thinking that having a wood deck will be easier and safer than the metal decking. I can temporarily screw down my scaffolding supports. It might start feeling warmer too, just not having that big flat skin of cold metal pulling the heat out of me....

Floor treatment looks great. What product(s) did you use to seal the floor?

[AlphaHare]

I'm using POR15. It's a moisture cure (humidity) urethane that's marketed for rust. I think it literally stands for "Paint Over Rust".... I think any really sticky product would work, Chassis Saver comes to mind but my local auto parts didn't carry it. Wear gloves - it's 'never comes off until you're dead and maybe even later paint'

After that, I'm covering all the seat and wheelchair holes with a construction product for decking. It's a thin adhesive butyl rubber tape with a backer that feels like electrical tape. That will prevent any water from coming up under the foam.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by AlphaHare

I'm using POR15. It's a moisture cure (humidity) urethane that's marketed for rust. I think it literally stands for "Paint Over Rust".... I think any really sticky product would work, Chassis Saver comes to mind but my local auto parts didn't carry it. Wear gloves - it's 'never comes off until you're dead and maybe even later paint'

After that, I'm covering all the seat and wheelchair holes with a construction product for decking. It's a thin adhesive butyl rubber tape with a backer that feels like electrical tape. That will prevent any water from coming up under the foam.

Question: Did you neutralize the existing rust first, before using POR?

[AlphaHare]

Originally Posted by ewo1

Question: Did you neutralize the existing rust first, before using POR?

I didn't.

I have used the metal prep product before on smaller projects (marine engine parts) and it's nice and leaves a grey toothy finish for the POR15. But it's phosphoric acid-based (10%-25% according to the MSD) and requires rinsing after treatment. I can't easily rinse the crannies of the bus.

My rust appears to be from seeping rivets in the skin, and is very localized. I'm counting on encapsulation to seal it up, and new paint and roof coating to prevent more water from coming in. The rest of the floor is just overkill.

[ewo1]

I use ospho for neutralizing it is phosphoric acid based but for general etching and painting i have never had to rinse it off.

When i apply it to thick it crystalizes, i just scuff it off with a scotch pad and paint.

.

[AlphaHare]

Details of the butyl tape - it's about 1/16" thick and very sticky. The back feels like electrical tape.

[AlphaHare]

I took the hoods off the upper flashers and put them over the turn and brake lights. Love this look.

These are 7" Partsam LEDs off Amazon. Same 6.25" bolt circle mounting as Weldon, Reflex center, DOT lettering molded in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098QLBVQR

[AlphaHare]

Slow progress.... trying to do a little something every day or at least something every week.

Here's the left side rear lights coming together - I'll get the lights on tomorrow before I go off on a work trip.

[AlphaHare]

I may have read this here somewhere - how to keep caulking from going off in the nozzle. I am a believer!

Toilet ring wax. Make a solid square, take the pressure off the caulk, push the wax onto the nozzle.

This sealant was opened at least 3 weeks ago. What's wild is the wax actually went into the nozzle when I pushed it on. That's a picture of what I squeezed out to clear the tip. No poking with nails, nothing - just squeezed right out.

[AlphaHare]

I was crawling around under the bus yesterday following the rear heater hoses to where I can terminate them with a loop. Found it basically under the drivers rocker panel where hard lines are connected to the hoses that run to the rear.

They were bundled with a couple other sets of wires (the low and high speed power circuit) in plastic sheathing, and another bundle which is the primary chassis interface wires.

And they're all headed for the rear of the bus. The hoses and blower I understand, but the chassis interface wires? (on a Minotour, all the important wires Ign, Gnd, Left Turn, Right Turn, Brakes, Taillights, Backup come in from one cable). So I crawl around on my back some more and run them to the rear of the bus where I find this -

Thomas runs the primary bus lights on what amounts to a trailer connection. This picture between the frame rails in the very last bay in the rear. I just thought it was interesting.