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12-29-2024, 02:31 PM
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#81
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,128
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaHare
Got my welder up and running yesterday. Picked up this Hobart Handler 140 on Craigslist a year ago and haven't touched it since.
Rookie mistake....
I took out the old spool of flux core. Replaced the tip and nozzle shield. Put in a new 10 lb spool of .023 solid wire. Attached the regulator to a new bottle of 25/75 gas.
My welding 'training' goes back 30-ish years to stick classes, and back then I could run an acceptable, but hardly certifiable, bead. With this machine, I struggled to do anything that looked good. Crappy beads, no penetration. Played around with all the settings, nothing really worked well. Very frustrating.
As I was hanging up the gun and calling it a night I remembered something from a YouTube video I watched....
In changing the wire from flux core to solid, I totally forgot to change the polarity. Duh.
I spent two hours and a lot of gas creating crappy welds. After swapping leads, I spent 5 minutes with the correct polarity making welds that at least are starting to look like welds. Another hour of practice and I'll be feeling ready....
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lol, I can relate
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12-30-2024, 07:49 AM
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#82
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Got the first beam cut and fitted last night. The fits are a bit looser than I'd like in places, but I'll be able to fill the gaps. Or spend another hour fitting more carefully with a flap wheel. Probably that. Other places fit pretty well.
It's hard to make precision cuts holding an angle grinder overhead, at least for me. I marked the lines pretty carefully using the beam itself as a guide, offset by the thickness of the cutoff wheel, and I still messed up the angle. I might try a smaller porta-bandsaw to start the upper roof ribs but it's not going to be able to make the whole cut.
Disassembly was easy but now with re-assembly I have to start reminding myself, it's a bus, not a temple. A few inaccuracies will be ok and unnoticeable - as long as the welds are strong it'll be just fine.
I'm going to get the two lower beams in place, measure for symmetry which is more important than absolute position, and then tack them in. Then on to the upper section!
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12-30-2024, 11:52 AM
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#83
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2024
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 29
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3, Allison MD3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaHare
My welding 'training' goes back 30-ish years to stick classes, and back then I could run an acceptable, but hardly certifiable, bead. With this machine, I struggled to do anything that looked good. Crappy beads, no penetration. Played around with all the settings, nothing really worked well. Very frustrating.
As I was hanging up the gun and calling it a night I remembered something from a YouTube video I watched....
In changing the wire from flux core to solid, I totally forgot to change the polarity. Duh.
I spent two hours and a lot of gas creating crappy welds. After swapping leads, I spent 5 minutes with the correct polarity making welds that at least are starting to look like welds. Another hour of practice and I'll be feeling ready....
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My favorite posts are those where people are humble enough to not only talk about their mistakes, but willing to show them. I just spent 2 hours reinstalling pulled wiring to troubleshoot an issue only to realize it was a blown fuse. Tired of everyone only showing their perfect side online. Kudos to you! Enjoying the build too.
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12-30-2024, 04:07 PM
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#84
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: New England
Posts: 161
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Michael Corbier
Chassis: GMC Savana 3500
Engine: 6.5 Diesel
Rated Cap: 8-10 passengers and wheel
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Great project and ideas. I'm learning to weld on a similar machine. I didn't know about reverse polarity with flux core wire. When I asked about using it on my project outdoors, I was directed to the stick welder because of the likelyhood of wind blowing away the gas shield. Stick turns out to be forgiving on rusty metal that I have. Hoping to start my frame repair soon. Ptw I also spent extra time and frustration removing those restaint strap attachments.I went from both the top and from below.
__________________
There are no mistakes, just problems awaiting solutions
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12-30-2024, 05:09 PM
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#85
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Here's a Hobart 140 showing the leads. 7/16 socket and you just swap them.
For solid wire with gas, DCEP electrode (gun) positive.
For flux core wire without gas, DCEN electrode negative.
All the good welders here are rolling their eyes, but it's so easy to forget and it makes a huge difference. Ask me how I know this. ;>)
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01-01-2025, 07:22 PM
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#86
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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I got the second beam fit up today - and made a little tool so I can easily take a flap disk to any offending rib and straighten out my original cut. This one went in twice, but the fit is a lot more pleasing... ;>)
I'll refit the drivers side using the same technique and call the two lowers done. Tonight they are within a 1/16" of parallel - I can't complain about that!
Bonus - I'll end up with 16 stub sections to practice welding on. I'm going to tack them on the table, and then mount them temporarily in about the same position as the real ones so I can try overhead and down...
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01-20-2025, 08:24 AM
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#87
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Got the upper beams cut and fitted. A bit more fussy for some reason and just at that awkward overhead height which had me inside the bus and out on the scaffold.
I got a 5" diamond wheel which was just right and doesn't get smaller while cutting.... Put an 3/16 stick between the skin and the rib and that gave just enough room and had just enough disk.
The camera adds a vanishing point perspective, but they are parallel to the eye.
Next step is the stub ribs - really excited to see that come together. We're going to have a weather delay however. Single digits this afternoon and most of the week.
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01-22-2025, 05:01 PM
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#88
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Milwaukee-ish
Posts: 46
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: E450
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
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Just stopping in to say I LOVE this approach to a raise roof. It is going to look amazing.
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01-23-2025, 07:06 AM
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#89
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Thanks! I'm hoping the same....
I've never found a comparable build. It's very satisfying to see it start to come together. ;>)
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01-23-2025, 02:25 PM
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#90
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,929
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 29
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I plan to cut my ribs similarly but the opposite way, I will have the hat channels about 2 inches past the sheet metal rather than 2 inches inside the sheet metal, This will give me room to weld inside of the channel well better, with your approach it will be impossible to do this. But your method will allow for easier riveting.
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01-27-2025, 02:25 PM
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#91
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitis
I plan to cut my ribs similarly but the opposite way, I will have the hat channels about 2 inches past the sheet metal rather than 2 inches inside the sheet metal, This will give me room to weld inside of the channel well better, with your approach it will be impossible to do this. But your method will allow for easier riveting.
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This has got me thinking. It would be pretty easy to cut off just the center rib covering skin, weld the inside of the hat section rib, and cover it back up....
I'll see if I think the original welding went well first, but like I said, it's got me thinking.... thanks!
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02-01-2025, 05:29 PM
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#92
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Northeast
Posts: 192
Year: 2008
Coachwork: Thomas Built Buses
Chassis: Ford E-450 cutaway
Engine: 6.0 Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: GVWR 14,050
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Passenger side fitted, but too cold to tack anything together today. Really pumped to see it starting to come together, even if a long way to go... ;>)
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