We just picked this up from a transportation company - 2010 Chevy 3500 with a 6.6L Duramax engine. Completely rust free, fleet maintained, less than 100k miles, and 6'4" of ceiling height!!
I've done some searching around for advice on more recent (2010) 6.6L Chevys but would love any additional tips, notorious things to watch out for, etc. We're planning to take it to a mechanic once we pick it up and would love any guidance.
Nice. Is that a Collins? I have an 07 Thomas Minotour with a 6.6l duramax. They seem like pretty good motors. I think that the turbo is something to watch out for on them. It is on mine. The unison ring is frozen and it throws a DTC and “barks” from time to time. I think that it’s caused by babying it. You need to open it up and really make it breathe on a regular basis. Secondarily to that is the EGR cooler. I think that both of these problems stem from excessive idling. So drive it like you stole it.
We just picked this up from a transportation company - 2010 Chevy 3500 with a 6.6L Duramax engine. Completely rust free, fleet maintained, less than 100k miles, and 6'4" of ceiling height!!
I've done some searching around for advice on more recent (2010) 6.6L Chevys but would love any additional tips, notorious things to watch out for, etc. We're planning to take it to a mechanic once we pick it up and would love any guidance.
Hi, I'm looking at possibly buying a 2011 Chevy Duramax 6.6l skoolie (5 windows). How has your experience been with yours?
I'll echo the fuel filters also. My mechanic said its extremely important to change them when they're due. I had mine changed when I first bought the bus and my dash indicator says I have 40% life left on them. I'll be putting fresh ones on this spring.
Also stick with OEM air filters. The aftermarket are known to cause MAF codes.
In 2011 they changed the injector pump on the Duramax from a CP3 to a CP4. The CP4 is problematic. Some run a long way, but most fail around 115,000 miles, or earlier. The fix is to replace the CP4 pump, all the fuel lines and the injectors. You might get out for $5000, but it could be $7500 or more.
And you are back where you started-- with another CP4.
There are conversion kits to change back to a CP3, but it ain't cheap...
How long is it from behind the driver's seat to the back (interior)? And how much interior height after you finished the floor and any insulation in the roof?
Thanks!
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