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Old 11-28-2017, 05:07 PM   #141
Bus Nut
 
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Location: Greenwood, Indiana
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Engine: 11.1L Detroit Diesel S60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
At the risk of sounding serious here, I've seen a few coach buses store a spare tire in that area. Fold-down door in the front; slide out the spare. Maybe just a generic storage locker?
That's a good idea, too. I do have a tow yoke and brake lines in the way behind the front "grill", but I bet I could find a way....

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Old 11-28-2017, 06:12 PM   #142
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You've got a coach, right? Gotta be air brakes. I was thinking that maybe the hard braking event transiently overloaded the hyd pump, but no way.
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:19 PM   #143
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
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Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
does that hydraulic pump run the fan and maybe the fan bearing is going / extra stiff when it gyroscopes from a hard stop?
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:02 AM   #144
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Greenwood, Indiana
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Year: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
You've got a coach, right? Gotta be air brakes. I was thinking that maybe the hard braking event transiently overloaded the hyd pump, but no way.
Yes, a coach. The cooling system / radiator is on the driver's side behind the tag axle. The pump is mounted to the left of the engine block when viewed from the back (i.e. same side as the radiator). I'm not yet sure what else the hydraulic pump powers, but I'm 95% sure it powers the fan. I don't have a pic of the engine compartment, but the guy I bought it from put up a great walk-around video of the bus make/model I have. Its not the exact unit. Be sure to turn DOWN your audio if you watch....



Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
does that hydraulic pump run the fan and maybe the fan bearing is going / extra stiff when it gyroscopes from a hard stop?
That's a good idea to check. However, the mechanic is still waiting on a new hydraulic belt. I think after this episode I'm going to procure 1 or 2 complete sets of belts and keep them on the bus.

Gotta start a list of items to always keep on the bus. So far:
  1. 1 or 2 complete sets of belts
  2. Power Systems fuel additives
  3. battery tender
I'm sure you "oldtimers" have a much longer list than mine as I'm just starting out....
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:49 AM   #145
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I keep a set of belts with me.. I saved myself a couple months ago when I spun a bearing on an idler pulley.. I was a mile from a service center.. so using my auxilliary heater water pump and heater fans I limped my bus to the service center.. who found the idler pulley was in stock at a local parts shop but NO ONE within 250 miles had the belt and would be a 2 day to come from navistar.. I had my spare belt.. the service center was willing to use it and put me back on the road... so yeah keep a belt! it may be harder to find than you think..
-Christopher
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:56 AM   #146
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Found out today why my belt smoked 3 weeks ago - the hydraulic pump is loosing a bearing. I was going to smoke a belt sooner or later, the hard brake incident just made it happen sooner.
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:41 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
Ooo, minisplit compressor area.... I like, I like....




Oh, you've outdone yourself on that one, ECCB.... I've been looking for a way to grow fresh veggies in the bus. I did a "bubbleponics" experiment about three years ago now, and the tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, broccoli, and garden beans were just splendid. I only had about $250-$300 in supplies, most of it reusable.
Ok feed the dumbazz. What's a mini split compressor? And you use it for?

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Old 12-08-2017, 08:03 AM   #148
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Originally Posted by golfersmurf57 View Post
Ok feed the dumbazz. What's a mini split compressor? And you use it for?
Why do you think you're a dumbazz? Most U.S. residents only know of the central A.C. unit with ducts to blow the conditioned air around the house. Minisplits are ductless.

https://energy.gov/energysaver/ductl...r-conditioners
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:28 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
Found out today why my belt smoked 3 weeks ago - the hydraulic pump is loosing a bearing. I was going to smoke a belt sooner or later, the hard brake incident just made it happen sooner.
Ok, I got more information today, but it doesn't "compute".

The mechanic said that the hydraulic pump gets "too hot to touch" over time while the engine is operating. Based on that plus the fact that the hydraulic pump belt was destroyed by what looks like an intermittent seize, the mechanic wants to pull the pump and send it to another shop for inspection and possible remediation.

What doesn't "compute" with me is, shouldn't it be expected for the pump to get that hot during operation?

Anyway, my options at this point are to let the mechanic do the work and be out who knows how much money; buy a spare pump and install it (the mechanic will not install customer-sourced parts); or let it go and keep buying belts until something fails. Any other possibilities?

I don't have the knowledge or tools to install the pump myself yet. I'm looking around for someone who can teach me....
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:35 AM   #150
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I was reading another thread (http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f6/hop...bus-20331.html) and golfersmurf offered assistance troubleshooting diesel issues. You may want to reach out to him.

Good luck.
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:50 AM   #151
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Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I was reading another thread (http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f6/hop...bus-20331.html) and golfersmurf offered assistance troubleshooting diesel issues. You may want to reach out to him.
I'll reach out to him. Thx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Good luck.
I'm going to need it. I knew this "bus nut" stuff was going to be a journey. Now I'm getting the nitty-gritty details of "the journey"....
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Old 12-11-2017, 12:01 PM   #152
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Got the bus home from the mechanics today. Cold morning and the tranny shifted hard at first. The engine was a little rough 30-40mph, but smoothed out nicely at about 45mph.

The hydraulic pump didn't give me any problems on the 8mi run home. After idling down / shutting down and quickly going to the engine compartment, my coolant temp was only reading a shy above 140F.

I also gave the general manager of the shop a letter about how disappointed I was in the service of the hydraulic pump. Basically I stated that his people only presented one course of action; that that course of action was "open-ended" - who knows how much money it would have ultimately cost; and when I presented another course of action that was "bounded" and would almost certainly have cost less, he and his people summarily dismissed me - no negotiations, no "well here's what we can do", nada.

Yes, I'm a small-fry, so I doubt my letter will do any good. At least I got my disappointment off my chest. Now its on to figuring out how to troubleshoot the hydraulic system myself and figure out why the pump cooked the belt. Oh, and find where I can buy more of those belts....
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:00 AM   #153
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Ok thanks Markey mini isn't for me. I was just being sarcastic with the dumbazz thing. I have a post on here about needing a glossary cause people post all these terms and us newbs have no earthly idea. But thanks for the mini split info. I'm still thinking roof air is more feasible for my app.

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Old 12-12-2017, 09:21 AM   #154
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Gee thanks Steve. Markey if the pump is causing the belt issue it will probably have looseness in the shaft bearings. If you can get the belt off the pulley, grasp the pulley ( cold) and wiggle it top to bottom and side to side.no play bigger than a sewing needle thickness means the bearings are tight and good. Next, rotate the pulley just like your engine would. You should be able to move it with your fingers completely through several revolutions with out any roughness or binding. If it passes these, do the same test on any other pulleys to make sure they spin freely.
Ok next reinstall the belt. Start the engine and have a helper run it up to about 1500 rpm then turn the steering wheel as far as he can and hold it there. If you're not hearing squealing I'd think the pump was good. If you're belt is squealing ( which probably killed the belt by producing the heat) then I'd suspect not enough tension if adjustable or a bad tensioner spring if spring tension
Any pump failure would have shown symptoms like power steering weakness. Or engine heating up due to hydraulic fan not turning on demand.

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Old 12-12-2017, 11:39 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57 View Post
Gee thanks Steve. Markey if the pump is causing the belt issue it will probably have looseness in the shaft bearings. If you can get the belt off the pulley, grasp the pulley ( cold) and wiggle it top to bottom and side to side.no play bigger than a sewing needle thickness means the bearings are tight and good. Next, rotate the pulley just like your engine would. You should be able to move it with your fingers completely through several revolutions with out any roughness or binding. If it passes these, do the same test on any other pulleys to make sure they spin freely.
Ok next reinstall the belt. Start the engine and have a helper run it up to about 1500 rpm then turn the steering wheel as far as he can and hold it there. If you're not hearing squealing I'd think the pump was good. If you're belt is squealing ( which probably killed the belt by producing the heat) then I'd suspect not enough tension if adjustable or a bad tensioner spring if spring tension
Any pump failure would have shown symptoms like power steering weakness. Or engine heating up due to hydraulic fan not turning on demand.

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The mechanic told me that he did those physical tests and everything "passed". However, I'll re-do the tests this weekend. I have physical problems with the 20s we have now and this weekend is forecasted to make it to the mid 40s.

As for the symptoms: it was a cold morning (I let the engine run/warm for about 20min before starting out); about 2 miles from home I had to brake pretty hard. When I looked in my mirrors afterwards I saw loads of white smoke; I thought it was my brakes, so I pulled over in a safe place to investigate but didn't found anything obvious. Then everything was "normal" for the next 20-25 miles until I got a "hot engine" warning light. At that point I stopped to check things out again (and let the engine cool) - that's when I saw the hydraulic belt doing it's "flappy bird" impression. I stopped the engine and found that the belt had over an inch deflection at its center - even I know that's way too much. After the engine cooled a bit, I then drove it for another 20-25 miles to the mechanic's shop. I did not get the "hot engine" light on that leg of the trip. The steering was just fine the entire time....
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Old 12-12-2017, 01:47 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
Why do you think you're a dumbazz? Most U.S. residents only know of the central A.C. unit with ducts to blow the conditioned air around the house. Minisplits are ductless.

https://energy.gov/energysaver/ductl...r-conditioners
not all mini splits are ductless... I run them in a ducted configuration in my house... no Fugly indoor wall units.. still use my standard air vents..
-Christopher
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Old 12-12-2017, 01:49 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
not all mini splits are ductless... I run them in a ducted configuration in my house... no Fugly indoor wall units.. still use my standard air vents..
-Christopher
Ok, generally they are ductless....
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:00 PM   #158
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its certainly p[ossible to have a bearing that only seizes at higher temperatures.. story of an old Lincoln 302 V8.. guy calls me "dude im overheated and my car wont start.. it was 21 degrees out... I drive out to him... coolant everywhere from the overflow... its cold by now.. car starts up .. we fill it burp it.. idle it for an hour.. not a drop.. drive it around the block.. not a drop...

go eat dinner .. he says "you drive it home".. after about 20 miles or so I start having to step on the gas harder and harder to keep it going 70... then 65.. then 60.. foot to the floor.. 4 barrell wide open.. biut wheres the power going?. temp gauge going up and up... 45 MPH... still floored... temp gets near H and i smell steam... let off the gas.. engine stops dead... starter wont spin it.. "damn i blew it up!".. let it sit about 30 minutes.. start it up.. runs perfect.. no steam.. no more coolant loss.. drive it home no issues.. he drives it to work next day.. no issues.. then next day goes on his trip he started.. same thing.. car jacks up... I go rescue him again... same routine... except on the way home this time once the steam started the engine stopped when I still had itr floored... seized.. even cold.. tore it apart.. rear main oil passage 95% blocked.. we seized and unseized that bearing quite a few times before it finally gave up the ghost and fuzed.. I pushed it pretty hard trying to make it home that last time..

so it seems entirely plausible that you could have a bearing seize when its hot and spin free when its cold..

or you could have a hydraulic valve sticking so you are trying to build pressure against a closed valve that shouldnt be which would hydro-lock the pump.. the belt acts as the "fuse" in the circuit so the pump doesnt break off the shaft or blow apart from pressure...

-Christopher
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:30 PM   #159
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Well, it was a cold morning (about 35F); it had high-idled for about 15min. before I left; and I was only about 2mi from my starting point when I hard-braked and then saw the magic white smoke. I can't believe that it was that hot at the time I saw the white smoke. However, that is assuming that the belt was cooking when I saw the white smoke....

And that really doesn't explain why I had no problems starting with the white smoke until the hot engine light came on 20mi later....

To my untrained ears, the stuck valve is sounding more like a possibility. However, until I can determine what is the actual operating temperature of the pump, I can't dismiss the mechanic's observation of "the pump is too hot to touch". (But what his observation means is a real "head-scratcher"....)

Unfortunately, I don't know how to start in diagnosing root cause. I don't like driving around in a bus that may just spontaneously cook a belt and leave me on the side of the road.

However, I am going to procure more belts and find out how to replace them....
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:52 AM   #160
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Belts are pretty simple to replace. You need to know that belt slippage also produces heat on the pulley which can be transmitted to the pump. Does the power steering fluid smell burnt? I usually use clear hydraulics oil If I can so if it overheats it will turn dark. Still think you may have a belt tension issue. But don't know if its manual or spring loaded adjustment. My 5.9 has spring tensioners on the idler except for the A/C compressors.

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