Yep. At it again. 1956 Flxible Visicoach

[Redbear]

Hey Mac, great news for a change!
When you have a classic, it makes decision making easier. When a run-of-the-mill bus has problems, you have to decide whether to fix the problems, or walk away and start over. With a beauty like this, you know you are going to fix it.

[Ray_WA]

I love it!!!

Good luck!!

-Ray

[paul iossi]

too cool classic styling

where is it located, who is close by if you need help getting it running, If it's in my neighborhood I'll help if I can.

[paul iossi]

way to far for me to be of much help anyhow in the past I've had ood luck with DOT3 brakefluid and ATF to help free up an old engine, start by trying to bar the engine over, if it turns over your luck has definately changed, if not pull the plugs and pour some brakefluid in the cylinders to start soaking the piston ring to piston area, then add fresh ATF to start working on the cylinder walls, once the engine breaks free make sure to bar it over by hand at least 2 complete turns before trying to crank it with the starter.
good luck

[Jarlaxle]

You need to update your sig. Bummer on the 4905.

OK, having resurrected many stored engines (longest sat from 1979 to 2007), here's how I do it: (It should go without saying this is an extremely messy procedure. Figure on 2 50lb bags of Speedy Dry, several buckets, and most of a roll of blue shop towels.)
Pull all belts & the spark plugs. Drain and flush cooling system about six times. Totally bypass fuel system--feed out of a gas can or something similar. Drain old oil, fill TO THE TOP with engine oil cut with ~10-15% MMO or Liquid Wrench (you want, minimum, the cam submerged). Pull the valve cover & drizzle oil on the entire valvetrain (I try to fill the engine this way). Fill all cylinders to the top with a 50/50 mix of Dexron or MMO and Liquid Wrench. Let it soak overnight (2-3 days is better). Drain the crankcase (think: laundry tub)--be prepared for the nastiest, rustiest glop you've ever seen. replace valve cover. Fill with normal amount of oil (I like 15W-40 diesel oil for this part). Turn the engine SLOWLY with a wrench on the crank bolt. Clean up the MMO/Liquid Wrench that went everywhere because you turned too fast. Crank it half a dozen times with the starter to clear the cylinders.

Pull the distributor & spin the oil pump with a drill until you have good oil pressure--hand crank the engine at least 4 times while you do this. Replace plugs, refill coolant, and crank it up! (It will smoke a few minutes until the oil burns out of the cylinders.) Hold it at 2000-2500RPM for at least 10-15 minutes so you don't wipe the cam. Change oil after an hour or so of running, and the first 500 miles or so.

This method has freed up a siezed-solid Ford MDT 361 that subsequently wound up 25,000 miles without a hiccup.