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Old 06-16-2024, 08:19 PM   #1
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Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 9
2006 ford 6.0 diesel

Has anyone had experience with “bulletproofing” this engine??

I’m in Toronto…. Looking for recommendations on shops to do work also??

Thanks!

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Old 06-16-2024, 08:39 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2024
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Ward - Volunteer
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466, Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 8 Window
The last place I worked we had an 06 that stroked out at 90k miles and the boss opted to bulletproof. We put another 160k miles on the truck without issue. All anecdotal, but that's my experience.
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Old 06-17-2024, 07:12 AM   #3
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
you can do different levels.. the EGR cooler and oil cooler are the biggest ones..

if you plan to run it hard then doing the Head studs is a good idea...



its a bit of a PITA in a van chassis.. although you do have nice access to the back of the engine through the doghouse..


if you are going to bulletproof do it before you convert.. this way getting dirty (and you will!) inside from the doghouse isnt a big deal...



CLEANLINESS is big since when you pull the oil cooler you are cracking open the oil system you dont want any dislodged dirt ending up in your IPR or ICP.. lots of the RED CAN of Brakleen and CLEAN RAGS.. even paper towel and rag fuzz can make for a bad day in the IPR.


be careful of the wiring.. unplugging the injectors can be tricky sometimes on those.. the spring clips love to launch..



you have to get down into the valley of the engine so its a lot of laying down.. you may be able to reach most if from the doghouse .. id do some other updates too like turbo oil lines.. standpipe. I dont necessarily think an EGR delete is important.. good oil and coolant maintenance after the job will keep things working nicely..


the full "bulletproof" involves head studs..ive known people to try the "1 stud at a time" method of not pulling the heads.. dont do it.. it doesnt work on a diesel.. pull the heads clean the surfaces install the studs , new head gaskets, and torque down..
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Old 06-19-2024, 07:18 PM   #4
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Engine: T444E, Allison 2000
Rated Cap: 72
My opinion. A dealer. Great way to avoid the garbage chinese parts that have flooded the market. The 6.0 is well documented and you will get good parts from the dealer. Hard to find a good mechanic. Also comes with nation wide warranty as we generally plan on traveling with it.

Engine oil cooler and EGR are the big ones. First check your coolant and engine oil temps. If more then 20 degrees, time to replace the oil cooler. I know the local Ford dealer will install a supplied EGR delete kit.

If running stock tune, do the head gaskets and studs only when the originals leak. Unless you want the peace of mind.

Another big one. STC fitting. I sometime forget to mention this one. On the later style HPOP they had a quick snap oil branch. This can be updated to a thread style. The quick snap style wear out and can blow out. Best case you need a tow. Pull turbo,HPOP cover and replace the fitting. Worst case they crack the rear engine cover and becomes a much larger job. I have not so proudly gotten away with JB welding a small hairline crack. Other option is to weld the rear cover while in place on the E-series. F-series just no room and trans. is pulled and cover replaced.

As for the studs again. Agree with CK. Do the job properly. HOWEVER. Again I have not proudly done the one at a time method on a healthy stock engine. They are still running today.....but again. Stock engine. Customer wanted it. No warranty for the job.

Hi engine oil temps also hardens all the o-rings through the engine. Cant say it enough. Check oil cooler temps.

Change your coolant helps keeping your oil cooler maintained

Always make sure your batteries and charging system is at 100%. Low voltages burns out the FICM.

If you have to buy injectors. Do not buy piston ring injectors. They fail shortly after a year. Top o-rings blow out. SMP injectors meh...have used them but just not a fan of anything SMP anymore. Alliant I like or OEM but most expensive
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Old 06-20-2024, 07:39 AM   #5
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,154
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omnibot2000 View Post
My opinion. A dealer. Great way to avoid the garbage chinese parts that have flooded the market. The 6.0 is well documented and you will get good parts from the dealer. Hard to find a good mechanic. Also comes with nation wide warranty as we generally plan on traveling with it.

Engine oil cooler and EGR are the big ones. First check your coolant and engine oil temps. If more then 20 degrees, time to replace the oil cooler. I know the local Ford dealer will install a supplied EGR delete kit.

If running stock tune, do the head gaskets and studs only when the originals leak. Unless you want the peace of mind.

Another big one. STC fitting. I sometime forget to mention this one. On the later style HPOP they had a quick snap oil branch. This can be updated to a thread style. The quick snap style wear out and can blow out. Best case you need a tow. Pull turbo,HPOP cover and replace the fitting. Worst case they crack the rear engine cover and becomes a much larger job. I have not so proudly gotten away with JB welding a small hairline crack. Other option is to weld the rear cover while in place on the E-series. F-series just no room and trans. is pulled and cover replaced.

As for the studs again. Agree with CK. Do the job properly. HOWEVER. Again I have not proudly done the one at a time method on a healthy stock engine. They are still running today.....but again. Stock engine. Customer wanted it. No warranty for the job.

Hi engine oil temps also hardens all the o-rings through the engine. Cant say it enough. Check oil cooler temps.

Change your coolant helps keeping your oil cooler maintained

Always make sure your batteries and charging system is at 100%. Low voltages burns out the FICM.

If you have to buy injectors. Do not buy piston ring injectors. They fail shortly after a year. Top o-rings blow out. SMP injectors meh...have used them but just not a fan of anything SMP anymore. Alliant I like or OEM but most expensive

+1 for alliant injectors.. even if you get modded High performance injectors find a place that starts of with New Alliants and not worn out used cores..
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