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Old 11-06-2017, 04:56 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
If you are re-making compression fittings that have already been compressed ...

Tighten the joint down until it is "snug", then give it a further 1/8th turn.

Test it with soapy water. If it doesn't leak, great. If it does tighten it a further 1/8th and test again.

If it is still leaking you might need to remake the joint with new components ... but most reseal just fine.

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Old 11-06-2017, 05:20 PM   #22
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 228
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: AARE 3903
Engine: Cummins 8.3L 12v
Rated Cap: 78
Thanks all, really appreciate the advice.

Just to make sure I'm clear, at the top of the tank you can see one of the hose connections I disconnected. The threaded collar is pulled back a bit, the compression bit is still in the end of the hose, and the fitting it screws into is rotated down to the left.



I put thread tape on the exposed threads of the fitting and screwed the collar back down onto it when I put everything back together.

Here's the same connection after re-assembly.



JollyRoger, are you saying I shouldn't have taped this joint, or just that you don't use tape between the compression fitting parts and the hose end?

Thanks again, really appreciate all the help. I've stuck together my share of harbor freight fittings on air compressors over the years, but the consequences are a little more serious here and I'd like get it right

Rob
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:25 PM   #23
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Don't use tape on a compression joint that has a compression ring (olive).

The tape can get in the way of effectively tightening down on that sealing ring.

Tape is for NPT fittings
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:29 PM   #24
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: AARE 3903
Engine: Cummins 8.3L 12v
Rated Cap: 78
So spending a little more time under the bus I figured out the remaining leak I can hear isnít coming from one of the fittings but the used (free) valve I installed, lol.

Guess I should have seen that coming. Itís still a lot better than it was before, and holds pressure well enough that I wonít be hesitant to drive it now. Iíll order the replacement part from Napa and chalk this one up to the first of what Iím sure will be many learning experiences.

Rob


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Old 11-11-2017, 10:24 PM   #25
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 228
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: AARE 3903
Engine: Cummins 8.3L 12v
Rated Cap: 78
Air Leak Front Drivers Side

Take 2: Got the new valve in from Napa and replaced again. Went a lot smoother this time now that Iíd figured it out ;). Used Loctite PST thread sealant stick this time. Seems to review very well, weíll see how it does.



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