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Old 09-29-2019, 04:43 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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And then it broke again! No power.

Dt466e, 2002. 111 code with the push button test which seems to indicate no code.

After the fan clutch was replaced I drove it hard for about 30 miles twice, up a huge hill with no cooling issues, 65mph on the highway with no problem.

At one point it felt like I lifted off the throttle and the RPMs dropped going up a hill, definitely weird, but I lifted off the throttle and hit the gas again and it responded and kept climbing the hill. Got it to where I was going without issue, didnít think Much of it.

It sat overnight until this afternoon and I pulled out onto the street and could go above 8 or 10 mph. Zero power. When I pulled over it barely will lift off idle with the gas, idles about 600rpm rough most of the time I canít get it above 1000 rpm. Eventually I got it to rev again after letting it sit, up to 1500 or so but sputtering, but after trying to warm it up a bit it quit idling all together and now wonít start at all.

Iíve read about the cam sensor and Iím defintiely going to change the fuel filter if I can get one today but probably going to tow it to the shop I would think. Itís parked in a pretty bad spot... but Iím supposed to be driving back to NY from NM today through Thursday so thereís that. Ugh.

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:00 PM   #2
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Limp mode. Some issues the ecu goes into limp mode and won't go faster than idle. Chris could probably better explain it.
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:30 PM   #3
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I dont thibk it’s that, because no codes and it would struggle to get above 1000rpm sometimes, 1500plus before it quit but still jacked.

The pause while driving home makes me think cam sensor more than anything, seems like a similar failure mode and common item to fail. I’m going to throw a part at it and see what happens.
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:12 PM   #4
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Another possibility is fuel supply issues. Perhaps plugged fuel filters?
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:02 PM   #5
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That’s my next guess... sensor is almost here and it’s quick to change... the gasket cracked so I kinda had no choice but to change it anyway... then I’ll pull the fuel stuff apart if it doesn’t fix it.

The intermittent dropout on the last drive has cam sensor written all over it so my fingers are crossed but it seems like fuel supply may cause a no code issue too. I’ll update soon!
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:51 PM   #6
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Can sensor Changed, but didn’t start immediately but eventually fired up. It was choppy and not so good but I moved it around and at 2000rpm it came alive and ran great. For about 5 minutes until it just shut off again. It was never clean at lower rpm but it was pretty good at high rpm.

No clue. I took the check valve apart by the fuel primer and the ball was half gone so I’m gonna change the filters and look into the fuel system in the morning. Any other ideas are more than welcome. Still no active codes.
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Old 09-29-2019, 11:58 PM   #7
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A voltage problem at the ECU? I would check the voltage, running, as close as I could to the unit. That, and then, carefully unplug and plug back in it's wire connectors. At least it doesn't cost anything.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:18 AM   #8
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Another thing I’ve read about and will dig into. I had a good 5v at the cam sensor when it wouldn’t run so I think the ecu voltage is probably okay but it’s intermittabt enough that it’s still a possibility for sure. I wish I had proper tools because it’s likely easy to diagnose a fuel pressure issue with a gauge instead of tearing **** apart but it is what it is!
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rffffffff View Post
No clue. I took the check valve apart by the fuel primer and the ball was half gone so Iím gonna change the filters and look into the fuel system in the morning. Any other ideas are more than welcome. Still no active codes.
Did the broken /missing part of the ball clog the fuel line?
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:19 AM   #10
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Our 5.9 Cummins had issues due in part to corrosion or ? on the multi-pin connector at the rear of the engine, DS. I unlocked the ring and it was only partially locked so I unplugged it and smeared a bit of dielectric grease on the pins, then plugged and unplugged several times before reconnecting and locking. That helped but the crank position sensor was on the way out. I replaced that and all is well in Cummins-land. Good luck.
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Old 09-30-2019, 02:44 PM   #11
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So I changed all the fuel filters and the check valve ball and the bus runs better than ever. For about 3 minutes at a time! Then it’ll turn off in the middle of the road basically throttle stops responding and the engine quits when I pull over.

I bled the air out of the lines better, but I’m getting 1-3 minutes between shutdowns still. Seems better idling, haven’t had a shutdown idling yet.

I’m hoping it’s additional air in the fuel lines, because I defintiely didn’t bleed them properly the first time... just filled the filters and primed with the pump but I didn’t know about the air valve until after.

Sooo. Hopefully I’m okay after I run some fuel through it but I’m not getting on the highway yet!
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:22 PM   #12
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How full is your fuel tank? Is there a lift pump in the tank? It sounds like youíre not getting enough fuel to the pump.
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:55 PM   #13
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You could have a small hole in your fuel line which is sucking air into the fuel. The engine gets enough fuel for idle but not enough for driving. Check out the "adept ape" on you tube. He has a video that address engine problems that don't turn on the check engine light and another on fuel problems. He has lots of good info.


Ted
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:19 PM   #14
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Thanks for all of the help again.

The issue never cleared up, and became more consistent. I can accelerate up to about 25 mph and it shuts down every time now. Smooth as silk until then. Immediately I can start it right back up and do it again.

I think it is a fuel issue and likely a leaky line, although the mechanics said that a lot of times the leaky lines cause hard starts when they lose prime but run okay too. I’m not sure.

I had to be in NY for my work so I just ended up dropping it at the mechanic and flying home. I’ll let them sort it out and fly back to drive home. I’ll post an update as to what they found and maybe a go fund me page to figure out how to pay. For it!!
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:17 AM   #15
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Just an update for anyone interested:

The fuel filters fixed the 8mph no power issue. The bus quitting intermittently and starting right back up turned out to be the cam sensor that I changed. The new one ($25 from o’reilly) was defective or perhaps lacked the proper shims. The mechanic got another from Napa with shims and the issue was resolved.
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:39 AM   #16
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Glad to hear that you are running again.

Having multiple issues at once can make troubleshooting a real pain.
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