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Old 05-28-2022, 10:26 AM   #1
Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 98
Blew clutch 8.2 detroit/ spicer 5

Hey all
I got a craptacular situation
Sitting in Cincinnati with a blown clutch.
Juice sprayed all over trans. Turned out to be gear lube
Trying to avoid the freeway system put me over the top of some horrible mountain ridge. I was grunting like hell to get to the top of it. Didnt seem to be slipping. Just grunting hard in low gears. Crested the top and ive got a runaway bus. 4th gear wasnt holding it back, hit the split speed axle and it wasnt enough. Tried to shove in 3rd, seems it wouldnt go in, finally popped in with a gnashing slamming of steel. Rolled out on flat land and got the bastard stopped. Luckily it wasnt an honest mountain pass. Id have been done for.

Clutch pedal flat on floor. Master and slave cylinder appear to be fouled. Metallic particles in it. Slave not extending.
Master gurgling or squirting internally. Assumed to be whole problem. Were replaced less than 400 miles ago.

Tow guy gets here finds exploded clutch material hanging out. Looks like a birds nest of fibrous stuff. Planned to drop trans and replace clutch where it sits. Discovered how slimy and screwed up the trans is. Has been grinding second gear trying to shove it in while not rolling, (clutch dragging,eh?) hilariously its the most appropriate gear to take off with.
Wants to swap the whole thing. I want him to. Here is where the question starts.

Says the later Spicer 6+1 and other various models should directly swap. Has "same case" turns out they have a different input and a dual disk clutch. Ok, awesome.

IF this Upgraded trans will bolt to the 8.2 Detroit,
Has same output location and compatible with driveshaft
Same mounts
Similar shifter

All we need is the appropriate clutch pack and flywheel and we are good, RIGHT?

I cant imagine issues with final drive ratio, these things are supposed to have overdrive anyway. Most of that is handled by the differential ratios right?

He believes it will work with his whole heart yet he tried to prove this and cannot come up with a compatibility verification. He is suddenly sweating bullets on the What If we forgot some aspect thing.

Thanks guys.
Yall proved to be shockingly knowledgeable about this transmission when i had the master/slave issues last spring. Figured i would give yall a curveball and see if you can hit it.

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Old 05-28-2022, 08:56 PM   #2
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I don't know anything about fitment. But with a spicer 5 "2nd" is actually the gear you'd normally use to take off from a stop. The "1st" is granny low and isn't synchronized so you'd only ever want to use it from a stop, then double clutch it to "2nd". That's how I've always driven them.
Best of luck in your repair- I'm sure some one on here has a lot more info for you.
Wear A Mask- Stop the Spread!
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:23 PM   #3
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clutch exploded from overspeed on the downhill low speed axle in low and then finally mashing 3rd.. likely any more than about 35 MPH and your clutch is flying apart in pieces.. blown trans seal? juiced up the clutch? that or the trans lost a bearing, got so hot it boiled the fluid out the vent.. just guessing at this point..

as for a swap, it seems if you can get a trans with a bell and pilot that will match the clutch type you need then you would be golden.. might have to move where the stick is if the offset is different. shorten driveshaft.. just have to compare shaft sizes and bells available for your old trans vs what you want to swap in.. and hydraulic vs air brakes.. if you have hydraulics with a driveline brake.. that comes into consideration as not all transmissions are designed to accept one.. of it they are it is long obsolete..

wow trying to think of a hill big enough near cincy that would completely take out your brakes and make make you a runaway!! the river valley is a good grade down esp on the kentucky side.. likely where you were fortunately you hit bottom pretty quick on those.. but id still want my brakes checked, shouldnt lose them in that distance..

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Old 05-28-2022, 10:10 PM   #4
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Well technically i still had brakes. I probably should have used the d@mn things instead of breaking stuff. But the clutch had already been acting funny for a while. Was on its way out. When i first pulled out on this trip it was slipping quite obviously for a couple miles then suddenly the pedal popped up higher than it had been since i changed the cylinders and acted great.

The second gear grinding... indicates to me that the clutch was dragging and causing gnashing of teeth. All other gears will drop in at a stop. The one gear that is appropriate for getting rolling in traffic wont go in while stopped lol

Speedo cable had fluid shoved up inside
Hauling ass down the hill was indicated at 10mph on the speedo

Air brakes no trans brake

I see little issue if it bolts up. Get proper clutch pack and flywheel and call it good. Im all about the double disk concept.

It was Winton road southbound to Kings Run
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Old 07-01-2022, 02:41 AM   #5
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Im looking at a couple of these 6+1 units, all looks well, but the shifters....

Im curious.

The one on mine has a very complex mechanism that offsets the shifter to the left and far forward.

The transmissions are seen with a stick hanging out of the top, as per convention

Will my complex shift mechanism from the 5 speed attach directly in place of the factory stick on the 6+1 and in the process learn to steer new gears?

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Old 07-02-2022, 11:11 AM   #6
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learn how to float your gears as once your rolling you do not need to use the clutch unless you come to a complete stop.
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