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Old 08-08-2021, 10:42 AM   #21
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im coming in late.. (I really was planning on never coming back to the forum again).. anyway to this post..
Dude, You gotta stay!

It's people like you who like to share and help out, the reason why I like coming here.

Bull$hite attitudes, wannabees, complainers...they are all over the world so if you find that here, brush it off and keep working with those who deserve it!

I have learned alot from your posts and I am quite sure many others also have...so please stick around!


Ed..

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Old 08-08-2021, 10:46 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
Dude, You gotta stay!

It's people like you who like to share and help out, the reason why I like coming here.

Bull$hite attitudes, wannabees, complainers...they are all over the world so if you find that here, brush it off and keep working with those who deserve it!

I have learned alot from your posts and I am quite sure many others also have...so please stick around!


Ed..
Amen! We need Cadillac Kid!🖖
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Old 08-08-2021, 10:48 AM   #23
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Almost 15 hours and counting for waiting for a tow truck.

In the meantime I checked my battery cables and connections and fuse, including removing any tape or shrink wrap and all the connections were very clean and all toned with no problem, including the 40 amp blade fuse.

I'm going to get under the bus, my second home, and try and Trace and tone leads from the battery box.

Here's a picture of my starting battery set.
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Old 08-08-2021, 10:49 AM   #24
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Short bus, I sent you a PM.
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Old 08-08-2021, 11:27 AM   #25
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Christopher, glad you piped in. Where is the power module for me to do testing? I'd spend time looking it up, but time is not on my side right now. Remember I have a rear engine. You may not no the exact location but if you can tell me where or what to look around that would be appreciated.
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Old 08-08-2021, 12:08 PM   #26
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im coming in late.. (I really was planning on never coming back to the forum again).. anyway to this post..
Don't let people get to you. You have the kind of specific, experience based information folks need. Also you have a good screen name, we need that here.

Oops forgot the smiley face.
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Old 08-08-2021, 09:25 PM   #27
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I really was planning on never coming back to the forum again
Yeah, please don't leave, you're a tremendous asset to this site, most especially for those of us who don't know anything about the mechanical side of buses.

Most of the annoying people come and go quickly, and even I've only been here two years.
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Old 08-09-2021, 01:37 AM   #28
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Buy boxes of new fuses in the sizes you use.
One-by-one, replace all the fuses with your new fuses.
.
I was stranded in La Pine, Oregon June, 2021.
After probing and pulling for a few minutes, I pulled each fuse to inspect.
One was sooty.
I replaced all of them with new-in-box fuses.
.
Good as new.
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Old 08-09-2021, 09:02 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
Almost 15 hours and counting for waiting for a tow truck.

In the meantime I checked my battery cables and connections and fuse, including removing any tape or shrink wrap and all the connections were very clean and all toned with no problem, including the 40 amp blade fuse.

I'm going to get under the bus, my second home, and try and Trace and tone leads from the battery box.

Here's a picture of my starting battery set.
I would like to share some info/ real life work experience on trace toning a wire.

I did 8 years as a bell telephone splicer, I worked on cables that were paper wrapped, not vinyl wrapped. We are talking about 1200+ pairs (2400 wires) inside a wrapped cable. Paper wrapped cable is also known as "PULP" cable.

Paper coated wires do not have color codes to follow so essentially would must tone every single wire that you are working / splicing on.

The tone generator has two settings, a warbled tone and a solid steady tone.

I just want to elaborate on why...
The warble tone is a two tone sound oscillating between high and low at a very slow frequency. the problem is that this oscillating signal when looked at on an o-scope will resemble a sine wave on the screen.

A\C current, house power, when looked at on an O-scope is sure enough a sine wave signal.
D\C current, a battery, will look like a flat line on the O-scope.

The caution here is that a sine wave of any size will make its way across a high resistive connection. A sine wave of any size will cause and create an inductive field. Low frequency oscillation, very low inductive field. High frequency oscillation, high inductive field. This is why sine wave or A/c current will bleed over onto the other wires, especially in a high resistive (corroded) state.

If you ever seen two wires wrapped against each other, this is because that wire/circuit might be affected by induced (foreign) signal caused by oscillation of nearby wires. A cat 5 computer wire is a perfect example of twisted wires within a cable. The twisted pair wires will reduce or cancel out any bleeding effect amongst itself, the one pair of wire and not the entire cable unless of course each and every pair in the cable is all twisted pair!

You will see this in a bus, most Throttle position sensors on a rear engine bus will have twisted pair wires going back to the ecm.

A high resistive connection is what causes the static you hear on an old copper telephone line.

When splicing paper cable we used the warble to locate the correct bundle of wires inside the cable and then we switched to the solid tone. This is called "Probing" or "Identification" of the bundle/pair.

The solid tone has NO oscillation, no sine wave, and WILL NOT travel thru a high resistive connection because the solid tone does not have the sine wave characteristic that the warble tone does. The solid tone is a pure DC signal!

In short, to make absolutely sure your wired connection is clean, it is probably best to test the wire with the solid tone versus the warble tone.

If you open up your tone generator it should have a small slide switch in it, at least the older ones do. Not sure if newer one have the switch on the outside.


In short we used the warble tone for identifying and the solid tone for testing the actual wire pair.

I share this only to help better understand how the tone generator works.
Most folks do not know or need to know this info but knowledge IS power!
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Old 08-09-2021, 09:31 AM   #30
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Excellent post. With more and more of our buses using computers and multiplex wiring your "lesson" will serve us well.
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Old 08-09-2021, 03:09 PM   #31
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Just now getting back. The power relay on mine (I just looked) is in a bank of 4 up on the firewall.. they are labeled sort of. All 4 in a row and it’s the one on the driver side furthest. The starter enable relay is there too next to it. Then one you likely don’t have which was my trans modulator for the 545. The 4th is unlabeled.

In my beattery box if o unplug that white connector my ECM fails to boot. And my bus won’t crank or start. I pulled the ECM fuse and same thing. I pulled the diag fuse and same thing. With either of those circuits dead or the white wire unplugged I get no crank no warm light no wait start and of course no diagnostics with the nexiq.
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Old 08-09-2021, 03:11 PM   #32
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I have a couple pink fusible links in the battery box too I didn’t try taking those apart . Now my engine is in pieces so I can’t test any further for now
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Old 08-09-2021, 04:05 PM   #33
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Fantastic information on how to tone wires! Thank you for that. I do have two settings on my toner, but I didn't know what the difference was. That will make it easier and more accurate for me to find and detail problem wires in the future.

Christopher, your testing on disconnecting those circuits and the ECM not powering up is probably exactly what's happening with my bus.

: My bus is at RWC / international dealer in yakima. My initial feedback about RWC in Yakima is great people. The service manager and the mechanic were so good at listening and understanding and asking questions. I really feel like I left my bus in good hands. Now what they'll find and how much it'll cost, that's to be seen!



Ironically, I am taking a Greyhound bus back to home while my bus stays in Yakima.

Thank you to everyone who helped with the situation and I will update it when I find out what the resolution is.
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Old 08-09-2021, 04:56 PM   #34
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Glad it’s on good hands, hopefully it’s something simple that doesn’t cause a bunch of labor hours and you can get back on the road! I’m into pulling the valve covers on mine.. discovered an A/C line that’s rubbed almost through too.. at least this stuff ain’t breaking when it’s 20 below outside !
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Old 08-09-2021, 05:01 PM   #35
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Glad you made it home, Steve.


What an effing adventure!!
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Old 08-09-2021, 05:06 PM   #36
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Scenarios like this are why I'd like to get a toad vehicle setup. It makes breakdowns like this a lot less complicated as you have a way to get to parts stores and/or home.
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Old 08-09-2021, 05:11 PM   #37
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Scenarios like this are why I'd like to get a toad vehicle setup.

Zackly
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Old 08-09-2021, 06:49 PM   #38
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Scenarios like this are why I'd like to get a toad vehicle setup. It makes breakdowns like this a lot less complicated as you have a way to get to parts stores and/or home.
I'll be pulling a motorcycle trailer with a couple bikes in it - but hopefully NOT to have to shag parts for a broken bus -- Uh-oh, I shouldn't have said that.
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Old 08-09-2021, 07:17 PM   #39
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Good luck Steve.
Let’s all hope for a speedy, economical recovery.
Cheers
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Old 08-09-2021, 07:17 PM   #40
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Have followed this thread and glad you have made progress, stuck on the freeway was bad news. Hope it's a simple fix for your bus!
Good Luck!
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