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Old 01-15-2025, 11:04 AM   #1
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Changing the spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

Hi friends, my engine has been misfiring quite a lot recently and back firing as I let off the gas. So it's time to change out my ****! I recently changed my plugs so I know that's not the problem. Is it feasible for me to change everything myself? I have no experience with spark plugs, but mechanics want a lot of money to even look in the direction of my bus! It's a 76, international 1603, with a 345 engine. Video recommendations are always welcome!

Also if anyone is in the Tucson area and maybe could help, that would be amazing, I could buy you some beer or throw a little money your way!

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Old 01-15-2025, 02:53 PM   #2
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was it backfiring before you changed the plugs?
if not you could have not got a wire boot back on good?
pre made wires are simple enough.
also look at the distributor cap and rotor button as well as points if you have the old distributor.
for the backfiring i would check the powervalve in the carburetor after fixing the mis fire.
it could also be a plug backing out.
some plugs used crush washer's to help with that.
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Old 01-15-2025, 06:33 PM   #3
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The points and condenser are what I would be looking at first for popping and backfireing. When was the last tune up? You will need a feeler gauge and a screwdriver to change the points. A timing light as well. Not hard to do, but the screws are small. there is one screw that will look like it does not hold anything, do not unscrew it. It is used to set the point gap. .017" is the point gap spec. in the service manual. 4 degrees before top dead center on timing, although I always ran mine at 8 degrees.
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Old 01-16-2025, 07:21 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
The points and condenser are what I would be looking at first for popping and backfireing. When was the last tune up? You will need a feeler gauge and a screwdriver to change the points. A timing light as well. Not hard to do, but the screws are small. there is one screw that will look like it does not hold anything, do not unscrew it. It is used to set the point gap. .017" is the point gap spec. in the service manual. 4 degrees before top dead center on timing, although I always ran mine at 8 degrees.

or just ditch the points altogether and install a pertronics and associated coil... or even go wit han aftermarket small cap HEI distributor.. that made my 392 run so much better..
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Old 01-16-2025, 08:56 AM   #5
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in my experience backfiring is from exhaust system leaks introducing oxygen to the system for firecracker style pops, has your exhaust system gone south with age?
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Old 01-16-2025, 09:05 AM   #6
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or just ditch the points altogether and install a pertronics and associated coil... or even go wit han aftermarket small cap HEI distributor.. that made my 392 run so much better..
Ultimately yes, and I have done both with very good success. I am assuming he is stuck at the moment, so maybe the points have closed up, and a simple adjustment gets him back on the road.

Speaking of Pertronics, I just got a kit for my Bobcat, going to put that on this weekend. Sometimes it runs great and other times popping and backfiring. Tired of messing with points..... actually pretty sure the condenser is failing too.
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