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Old 11-18-2020, 08:41 AM   #1
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Coolant & Sulfates?

I have a 2001 International with a DT466E. We bought the bus with the rear heaters removed and several coolant leaks. I have since managed to get the coolant leaks sealed up for the time being, but in working through it all, I have lost all of the coolant/anti-freeze from the system. With winter coming on I need to remedy that. Here's my questions.

Is there a certain type of coolant I should use? Do I use a coolant/water mix and what's the ratio? There is a sticker by the fill cap that says "sulfites added", any ideas what that means?

I'm eventually going to tear into the rest of the heater system and remove the drive and front heater cores as well, but I want to be prepared for any freezing temps I might encounter along the way.

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Old 11-18-2020, 09:36 AM   #2
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What color coolant leaked out? I'm going to assume being a 97 it was regular green antifreeze, so that's what you should add back to it. You can get it from any auto parts store in concentrate and add water to it, or you can get it in a 50/50 premix if you're water is no good. If you use concentrate, the water you use should be mineral free. Either distilled or something similar. If your town water is good like ours is, you can use that and be fine.

The "sulfites added" refers to the supplemental coolant additives(SCA's) that are required for diesel engines. You need to have the level of SCA's tested periodically and maintained accordingly. To do this, you use test strips available at most parts stores along with the additive to maintain it. I know for certain napa stores should have this stuff, and I can get you the part numbers if you'd like.

Most truck shops and larger truck stops should have this stuff as well. They should also be familiar with the process if you're unsure.
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Old 11-18-2020, 09:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
What color coolant leaked out? I'm going to assume being a 97 it was regular green antifreeze, so that's what you should add back to it. You can get it from any auto parts store in concentrate and add water to it, or you can get it in a 50/50 premix if you're water is no good. If you use concentrate, the water you use should be mineral free. Either distilled or something similar. If your town water is good like ours is, you can use that and be fine.

The "sulfites added" refers to the supplemental coolant additives(SCA's) that are required for diesel engines. You need to have the level of SCA's tested periodically and maintained accordingly. To do this, you use test strips available at most parts stores along with the additive to maintain it. I know for certain napa stores should have this stuff, and I can get you the part numbers if you'd like.

Most truck shops and larger truck stops should have this stuff as well. They should also be familiar with the process if you're unsure.
Unfortunately, it was so watered down by the time I got the bus, there wasn't any color that I could tell. I know the regular stuff and can work with it. It is a 2001 not a 1997, would that make a difference?
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:09 AM   #4
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I know for certain napa stores should have this stuff, and I can get you the part numbers if you'd like.
That would be great, I called the local store and the counter kid didn't know what I was talking about.
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:09 AM   #5
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Unfortunately, it was so watered down by the time I got the bus, there wasn't any color that I could tell. I know the regular stuff and can work with it. It is a 2001 not a 1997, would that make a difference?
Shoot, I had my train of thought on a 97.

I believe in 2000 they switched to extended life antifreeze, but don't quote me on that. Truthfully you need to see what's currently in the system to determine what you need to add. Certain coolants don't play well together, so if you can't identify what you currently have, then a flush of all the old coolant is required. Then you can fill it up with whatever coolant you desire. I recommend using regular green antifreeze with sca's, unless you have an EGR cooler, then you need to use the fancier coolants.

I know navistar had issues with the dt466e cavitation and corrosion when they switched to extended life coolants. EastcoastCB found that out first hand on a bus he had IIRC.
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:15 AM   #6
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That would be great, I called the local store and the counter kid didn't know what I was talking about.
#4106 is for the 50 count bottle of strips. They should be available in smaller quantities though.

#4056 is the bottle of additive. It's called napa kool and I'd be surprised if it isn't on the shelf.
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Old 11-18-2020, 12:15 PM   #7
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Are you sure it doesn't say "silicates added", not "sulfites added"?
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Old 11-18-2020, 12:18 PM   #8
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I know navistar had issues with the dt466e cavitation and corrosion when they switched to extended life coolants. EastcoastCB found that out first hand on a bus he had IIRC.
I believe the cavitation problems came after they switched to the extended life coolant with silicates (not sulfites) added in 2000. The cavitation resulted from mechanics continuing to put in the old type of coolant, incorrectly.
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Old 11-18-2020, 12:22 PM   #9
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Your coolant should be pink, not the green stuff. I've had all this handled by my mechanics so I haven't done it personally, but as I understand it from what they've told me and from what I've read, the spin-on coolant filter (which you should probably replace along with the fluid) contains the silicates, which are released gradually into the system.

Whatever you do, make sure you've researched things thoroughly and are 100% sure you're doing the correct thing, or you will hose that engine.
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:08 PM   #10
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Are you sure it doesn't say "silicates added", not "sulfites added"?
No, I'm not totally sure since you've said that, you may be right. I'm going to check this weekend when we go back and work on the bus next.

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Whatever you do, make sure you've researched things thoroughly and are 100% sure you're doing the correct thing, or you will hose that engine.
That's the last thing I want to do, that old motor purrs right now. To date I've only added water to the system, sounds like I'm going to have to flush everything and start over. The local International dealer is right by my work. Think they might know what I should use? They were able to tell me all sorts of things I couldn't find out otherwise by giving them my VIN.
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:15 PM   #11
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No, I'm not totally sure since you've said that, you may be right. I'm going to check this weekend when we go back and work on the bus next.



That's the last thing I want to do, that old motor purrs right now. To date I've only added water to the system, sounds like I'm going to have to flush everything and start over. The local International dealer is right by my work. Think they might know what I should use? They were able to tell me all sorts of things I couldn't find out otherwise by giving them my VIN.
Yes, the IC dealer would know what to use.
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:19 PM   #12
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Google Dt466e service manual. There's a free Pdf. file half way down the page. It will have the required coolant, how to change/flush it and the SCA percentage.
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Old 11-18-2020, 03:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Shoot, I had my train of thought on a 97.

I believe in 2000 they switched to extended life antifreeze, but don't quote me on that. Truthfully you need to see what's currently in the system to determine what you need to add. Certain coolants don't play well together, so if you can't identify what you currently have, then a flush of all the old coolant is required. Then you can fill it up with whatever coolant you desire. I recommend using regular green antifreeze with sca's, unless you have an EGR cooler, then you need to use the fancier coolants.

I know navistar had issues with the dt466e cavitation and corrosion when they switched to extended life coolants. EastcoastCB found that out first hand on a bus he had IIRC.
The cutoff was mid year 00, another option is Amsoil HD poly organic coolant it is designed to replace green coolant or the extended life coolant and doesn’t require additives. You should flush the system clear and blow out as much of the liquid as you can and then fill it. The amsoil comes as a pre mix formula.. I’ve been using it over 3 years on my 00 444e without issues.
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:58 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the advice guys!
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Old 11-19-2020, 03:25 PM   #15
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The cutoff was mid year 00, another option is Amsoil HD poly organic coolant it is designed to replace green coolant or the extended life coolant and doesn’t require additives. You should flush the system clear and blow out as much of the liquid as you can and then fill it. The amsoil comes as a pre mix formula.. I’ve been using it over 3 years on my 00 444e without issues.
Is this the right one?

https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-...%20Protectants
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Old 11-25-2020, 04:51 PM   #16
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My 2002 DT466E takes pink, if I were you I'd verify with International. When I called them they said a huge HELL NO to green.
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Old 11-25-2020, 06:00 PM   #17
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yeah the cutoff for green was in the model year 99 / 00 timeframe..
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Old 11-25-2020, 07:06 PM   #18
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Just a reminder to those that use green make sure it is low silicate. Less than 250 ppm. The wix part number for the test strips is 24105. I got mine at O'reily's. Check the date code on them, they do expire. Most of them on evil-bay are out of date. It is ok to mix the different colors when finger painting but NOT with coolant.
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Old 11-27-2020, 08:20 AM   #19
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Ok, talked to International. I do need the antifreeze with the silicates in it, the red or pink stuff.

I have another couple questions for you guys. We have removed most of the heater system and have both gate valves closed so that the coolant is only in the block and radiator I believe. I still have some some demo to do in the system, but I'm sure both valves are closed to the heater system.

First, with those gate valves closed, how much 50/50 mix will it take to fill the system? Second, can I drain the all the plain water from the system using the petcock at the front of the radiator? If not, where can I do that?

I'm trying to get this buttoned up before next week. We have a morning or two next week that's suppose to be below freezing here already this year. I know I probably don't have anything to really worry about in the low 30s, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2020, 12:18 PM   #20
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If you drain just the radiator you will still have some water in the block. Look for a drain valve on the block. At the very least drop the lower radiator hose and drain it there too. I don't know the quality of the water in the block is it tap water? Our tap water IS NOT suitable for coolant.
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